newbie rear end upgrade questions!

[kammi10]

Cheapest would be the S60 with the Strange S-trak differential - which is comparable or better than the wavetrac in strength. It's the standard diff in the S60 now - but it's like $900+ to add it to the 9".

The biggest reason I went with the MWC 9" - was price. By the time you add in a torque arm and all the other option it's not that bad. 9" parts are cheap and they are a breeze to work on.

FWIW - I must have gotten a good true track - I've beaten mine relentlessly and it's held up. So far that is.....

me too i beat the hell out of my true trac and never once had a problem

[Darren]

do a search for "drunk larry threads" and you will find all the information on rear ends that you need!

[OIF1VET]

do a search for "drunk larry threads" and you will find all the information on rear ends that you need!

This is the answer I have been waiting for..

[WMCCjames]

I would also avoid using a stock 9" case if you plan on hooking hard off the line. The stock case has suited me well, but my car doesn't see a drag strip only but once every couple years.

[Gaspo]

Cheapest would be the S60 with the Strange S-trak differential - which is comparable or better than the wavetrac in strength. It's the standard diff in the S60 now - but it's like $900+ to add it to the 9".

The biggest reason I went with the MWC 9" - was price. By the time you add in a torque arm and all the other option it's not that bad. 9" parts are cheap and they are a breeze to work on.

FWIW - I must have gotten a good true track - I've beaten mine relentlessly and it's held up. So far that is.....

do you know the price range for that? i want the cheapest, but at the same time i dont wanna have to change it, so i want it to be good for everything i want to do with the car. i'd rather save now and spend the cash then do the job twice. ive heard a lot of good from the true track.

[1BADAIR]

yukon makes good cases. doubt you need a thru bolted unit but they really arent much more. I also recommend a backbrace

spiders in a 12 bolt are the weakest. then when you goto a spool the ring gear starts to break.
i broke a diff in half, broke spiders, crushed the crush sleave, put a ratech solid spacer in and damaged that. now it has a custom chromoly spacer. even with a spool i still can break gears at will with the 6 speed

[Gaspo]

so... ford 9", youkon case, 35 spline axles, back brace, 355 gears. then its between wave track, true track, strange s track? going to sell the rear thats in my car right now.

[birdie2000]

i broke a diff in half, broke spiders, crushed the crush sleave, put a ratech solid spacer in and damaged that. now it has a custom chromoly spacer. even with a spool i still can break gears at will with the 6 speed

So I must ask, why do you still have it? Is it any more reliable with the auto?

Ugh, always assumed the 12 bolt in my "race car" project was going to be fine, as everyone years ago advised me it would be. Hopefully with an auto it will live for a bit. Was toying with the idea of running a T56 but there went that idea lol.

Also, what power level did you start seeing problems at with the T56?

[Darren]

This is the answer I have been waiting for..

You can always count on me

[1BADAIR]

So I must ask, why do you still have it? Is it any more reliable with the auto?

Ugh, always assumed the 12 bolt in my "race car" project was going to be fine, as everyone years ago advised me it would be. Hopefully with an auto it will live for a bit. Was toying with the idea of running a T56 but there went that idea lol.

i didnt really hurt it very often until i got a real clutch. a soft loc clutch would be the best.
I made tons of passes this year and its still alive. the backlash opened up a little and has some noise but ..
I was gonna get a 9 but ended up trying an auto first. if i get a 9 then i would be able to launch the car(always made the car spin before if it hooked it broke) and would probably break the input/output shafts and would have to upgrade those. between a 9 and the shafts it would have cost me over 4000

[birdie2000]

i didnt really hurt it very often until i got a real clutch. a soft loc clutch would be the best.
I made tons of passes this year and its still alive. the backlash opened up a little and has some noise but ..
I was gonna get a 9 but ended up trying an auto first. if i get a 9 then i would be able to launch the car(always made the car spin before if it hooked it broke) and would probably break the input/output shafts and would have to upgrade those. between a 9 and the shafts it would have cost me over 4000

Cool, thanks. At what power level did you start having problems with the T56 and the 12-bolt?

[1BADAIR]

my main issue is weight. 3980 race trim.

[OVRKILL]

Cool, thanks. At what power level did you start having problems with the T56 and the 12-bolt?

my main issue is weight. 3980 race trim.

Question avoided....

[Gaspo]

my car is full weight too.. maybe should of specified that. i plan on tubular k member too, but after cage, rear end, sfc's my car is going to be more then stock.. and i'm running a stage 2 monster clutch and stock flysheel.

[Nocooler]

do you know the price range for that? i want the cheapest, but at the same time i dont wanna have to change it, so i want it to be good for everything i want to do with the car. i'd rather save now and spend the cash then do the job twice. ive heard a lot of good from the true track.

Call MWC for up to date pricing. Mine was $4000. It's back braced, powdercoated, 3 channel abs, 31 spline, tru-trak, 4.11's (at the time), chrome moly driveshaft, brake plates, assembly and I had them add a panhard bar to the package.

Add the price of a drive shaft, torque arm, relocation brackets, back brace, and such to a moser - and the price will be close.

A S60 would be a good unit for you as well. Pricing is around $1800 + shipping or so on them.