Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Texas Speed Moser 9 Inch

Collapse
X
Collapse
Who has read this thread:
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #31
    A mini spool drops into your existing carrier and replaces the spider
    gears
    just like a lunchbox locker would.

    A full spool replaces the carrier like a Detroit does.

    A Detroit is just like a spool when traveling in a straight line. The difference is when you are cornering. The Detroit will actually ratchet (temporarily unlock) and allow the wheels/tires to turn at different speeds which makes it handle a little better and its easier on your tires.

    ________________________________

    Cool I understand, I actually got them mixed up my fault and thanks for clarifying. Not here to bench race or throw times out, because its irrelevant right now because the car hasn't made more then two trips down the strip and I am by no means setting records with the car. Now, will I eventually run it a lot more down the strip after I put the axle in? yes. Will I run some ET streets or Hoosier DOT's on the stock 17x8 when I do get that far or to that point? yes. Like stated I also plan to add more power to it soon or in the future so thus the need for a bullet proof axle. I can care less what it runs frankly, and if it somehow lost seconds and only ran a 13 it just means Im a shitty driver but its the fact that Im making more power then stock and the stock 10 bolt is shit shot already and it being a M6 car has me going the 9 inch route. Peace of Mind is all that I can spend a weekend up at the strip and run it a dozen times and not have to worry. Now that we've cleared up some concerns about the car, some of you made some great points that I'd love to hear more on. AKA the one that stated 35 spline are overkill. Could be a great point, but would like some backing to support that statement and expand upon like will my car suffer because of going stronger? or will the longevity be breached because or upgrading? Thanks for the info again explaining the spool. I just swapped the two. Thanks to those that seem to have experience with the 9 inch'ers since there's loads of tips and info to go along with statements that your providing. Keep them coming, all are appreciated!
    sigpic
    98' Formula M6..Texas Speed PRC 5.3 2.5 Head..Comp 228R .588/.588 cam..180* Thermo..Stenod tune..L/T's..O/R-Y..Dynomax Ultra-flo w/ elect cut out..LS6 manifold..Lid..B&M..Hotchkis LCA's..Moser 9-inch with 4.11's..adj. tq. arm..chrome z06 wheels

    Comment


    • #32
      Originally posted by DETROITMUSCLE View Post
      You are WRONG! sorry don't mean to me so forward but a spool, as Matt mentioned, is not a form of unlocking differential I don't care what you ever read its straight fact that a spool is literally interlock the axles. Now that we got that out of the way I will explain why they are shitty for a street driven car, especially one with a street tire. Because the spool never unlocks and the wheels always turn at the same rate from side to side this causes the car to not like to turn much, it not only wears on the axles over time but the tires will hop and squeal while turning. The slower speed you turn the worse it will be. The only setup that really makes this more tolerable would be to run a soft sidewall tire on a smaller rim to get more sidewall so it will flex more on turns and not be as bad. This also leads to premature tire wear regardless of the tires.

      As for relocation brackets I will always recommend them to anyone that has enough power to upgrade to a 9" most likely if you do you will be drag racing it and the more adjustability the better. The 35 spline axles will probably handle whatever you plan to throw at it. Drain/fill plug is a great idea as well. I assume your going to run stock length?
      Thanks and yes I was going to go with the stock length just to make things easier. Great points. If you can think of anything else Im missing, I would greatly appreciate hearing it.
      sigpic
      98' Formula M6..Texas Speed PRC 5.3 2.5 Head..Comp 228R .588/.588 cam..180* Thermo..Stenod tune..L/T's..O/R-Y..Dynomax Ultra-flo w/ elect cut out..LS6 manifold..Lid..B&M..Hotchkis LCA's..Moser 9-inch with 4.11's..adj. tq. arm..chrome z06 wheels

      Comment


      • #33
        More rotating mass. Takes more power to turn.

        I'm not against running big axles tho. But with the direction your going with the car it isn't at all necessary.


        Comment


        • #34
          Originally posted by c0ncEpT View Post
          More rotating mass. Takes more power to turn.

          I'm not against running big axles tho. But with the direction your going with the car it isn't at all necessary.
          I agree, there's more rotating mass in general with a 9 inch as opposed to a 12 bolt or stock 10 bolt for that matter but am I costing myself amounts of HP or strain on the power-train by stepping up from a 31 to a 33 or 35 spline shafts? I guess Im still not seeing how adding stronger shafts will put me in a direction that I wouldn't want o go unless Im hurting myself or the longevity of the vehicle as a whole? I have no issues running less spline shafts but figured I wouldn't face any disadvantages by doing so. If 2 or 3 hp was the only thing compromised on top of the % lost by going to a 9 inch over the garbage 10 bolt then maybe it wouldn't be a bad thing?? Thanks!
          sigpic
          98' Formula M6..Texas Speed PRC 5.3 2.5 Head..Comp 228R .588/.588 cam..180* Thermo..Stenod tune..L/T's..O/R-Y..Dynomax Ultra-flo w/ elect cut out..LS6 manifold..Lid..B&M..Hotchkis LCA's..Moser 9-inch with 4.11's..adj. tq. arm..chrome z06 wheels

          Comment


          • #35
            Do some research on lockers w/ a m6 too. I have a detroit locker and a m6 and I hate it. After I bought it, I did research and found out how a locker w/ an m6 can suck when cornering at low speeds. The whole car jumps when you're turning if you're not in the right gear or at the right rpm. I just bought a 9 inch and am going with a trac loc posi w/ 31 spline axles.
            sigpic

            355 LT1 M6. 232/240 LE cam. 21* Trick Flow heads. Fully ported intake. 58mm TPIS tb. 42# SVO Injectors. LS7 Lifters. Moser 9" TrueTrac w/ 4.22 gears. True Duals. UMI Suspension. LS1 brake swap. Dr. Phil tuned 400ish rwhp. Money Pit.

            Comment


            • #36
              Originally posted by ryanwarby01 View Post
              Do some research on lockers w/ a m6 too. I have a detroit locker and a m6 and I hate it. After I bought it, I did research and found out how a locker w/ an m6 can suck when cornering at low speeds. The whole car jumps when you're turning if you're not in the right gear or at the right rpm. I just bought a 9 inch and am going with a trac loc posi w/ 31 spline axles.
              Ok cool thanks for the info. Sounds like your first hand experience wasn't good. What did you notice more specifically as far as cornering? like if you took corners too fast or just simply making a normal everyday turn and it still hopped? Also why is the M6 much worse other then the fact that your selecting your own lower gear when cornering? Just curious is all. It sounds like the spool is completely out of the question so it just comes down to the Tru-trac or the other type of posi mentioned or the locker but maybe the locker isn't such a good idea? we'll see with more research done. All the input is great though!
              sigpic
              98' Formula M6..Texas Speed PRC 5.3 2.5 Head..Comp 228R .588/.588 cam..180* Thermo..Stenod tune..L/T's..O/R-Y..Dynomax Ultra-flo w/ elect cut out..LS6 manifold..Lid..B&M..Hotchkis LCA's..Moser 9-inch with 4.11's..adj. tq. arm..chrome z06 wheels

              Comment


              • #37
                I'd guess it's because lockers don't like to disengage when rear is "connected" to the motor ?? (engine braking)

                1998 Camaro Z28 - Bright Red, 6.0 TR224, 4l60e, 3.42 Eaton TrueTrac
                1989 Camaro IROC-Z Convertible - 355 big tube TPI, WC T5, 3.42 Zexel Torsen, CTS-V/C4 brakes
                1955 Bel Air 2 Door Post - 357 TPI, Muncie M20, 4 wheel disc

                2006 Saab 9-7x 5.3i Daily Driver

                Comment


                • #38
                  Cost, weight, less options. 35 splines are not needed. 31 splines will take you a long way. Deep 9's are not unheard of. Also, street car mostly? Don't run a spool or locker. Spool is cheaper but you lose drivieability.
                  -08 G8 GT DD: Rotofab CAI, HID's, Breyton Race GTS'
                  -86 Iroc Project: LQ4, Th400, S400, Ford 9"

                  Comment


                  • #39
                    I paid $2,450 for my regular nothing special 9" with 31 spline axles a new driveshaft, it has the Detroit Tru-Trac diff in it (mind you this was ~6 years ago I bought it) Back when my car was a 6 speed and just a head/cam setup making about the same power as you it was more than plenty. I have a different center section in it now (better case and different gear ratio now) on low boost the car makes 620rwhp and I've made maybe 5-10 passes this past fall and that nothing special 31 spline rear end has been just fine.

                    The Tru Trac diff worked just fine for my car with both the 6 speed and the auto now. I'll probably put a spool in my car if/when I break this diff, but honestly I'm not easy on it.
                    1998 Camaro SS Bullseye Turbo
                    2002 F-250 7.3 Leveled on 20s with 35's
                    2006 Yamaha R6 50th Anniversary
                    http://www.mifbody.com/vbulletin/sho...-Update/page11

                    Comment


                    • #40
                      Originally posted by SS4Matt View Post
                      I paid $2,450 for my regular nothing special 9" with 31 spline axles a new driveshaft, it has the Detroit Tru-Trac diff in it (mind you this was ~6 years ago I bought it) Back when my car was a 6 speed and just a head/cam setup making about the same power as you it was more than plenty. I have a different center section in it now (better case and different gear ratio now) on low boost the car makes 620rwhp and I've made maybe 5-10 passes this past fall and that nothing special 31 spline rear end has been just fine.

                      The Tru Trac diff worked just fine for my car with both the 6 speed and the auto now. I'll probably put a spool in my car if/when I break this diff, but honestly I'm not easy on it.
                      sounds great! I've heard it a few times now but about the drive-shaft; what will or should I upgrade to exactly as I thought that the stock aluminum was fine? Or is it necessary because the stock will be too long for the different design of the 9 inch over the 10 bolt? And if that being so, what would you recommend me going with?
                      sigpic
                      98' Formula M6..Texas Speed PRC 5.3 2.5 Head..Comp 228R .588/.588 cam..180* Thermo..Stenod tune..L/T's..O/R-Y..Dynomax Ultra-flo w/ elect cut out..LS6 manifold..Lid..B&M..Hotchkis LCA's..Moser 9-inch with 4.11's..adj. tq. arm..chrome z06 wheels

                      Comment


                      • #41
                        I've also seen options for gun-drilling axles (35-spline) for weight, so far as strength I don't see how it would adversely effect it much. Seems like it would be something nice to include.

                        My car is pretty similar to yours, and I am also looking to upgrade the rear this year.

                        Used to own a Firebird.

                        Comment


                        • #42
                          Gun drilled isn't recommended for street use or cars or 2000lbs

                          Comment


                          • #43
                            Originally posted by 1BADAIR View Post
                            Gun drilled isn't recommended for street use or cars or 2000lbs
                            X2
                            FWIW there are plenty of 8 second cars that run 31 spline axles, I see no reason to go over 33 for a street car. As for a differential you really can't beat a wave-trac but I believe you have to run 33 spline minimum.
                            Doing less with more


                            Comment


                            • #44
                              I ordered 35 spline axles with my 9" several years ago and it was a huge mistake. The only options are spool and locker. I went with locker and it sucks on the street...all the banging, clicking, and hoping around corners gets real annoying.

                              Don't fall into the same trap I did (i.e. more splines equal more strength so why not do it for the same price). If it wasn't so expensive to change axles and center section I would have done it years ago...instead I have been living with this mistake since 2004

                              Comment


                              • #45
                                First time I saw a 35 spline axle for a 9" I was like...woah...that thing is overkill!Haha
                                sigpic
                                Turbo Charged LS1/T56

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X