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Texas Speed Moser 9 Inch

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  • #16
    just curious how would my tire wear be affected? and yes I see your point in the rain, with no room for much of any slip in each tire. good points. Yeah, no handling for me just a nice cruiser and straight line.
    sigpic
    98' Formula M6..Texas Speed PRC 5.3 2.5 Head..Comp 228R .588/.588 cam..180* Thermo..Stenod tune..L/T's..O/R-Y..Dynomax Ultra-flo w/ elect cut out..LS6 manifold..Lid..B&M..Hotchkis LCA's..Moser 9-inch with 4.11's..adj. tq. arm..chrome z06 wheels

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    • #17
      Originally posted by jpitcher22 View Post
      no room for much of any slip in each tire
      You answered your own question Depending on how much driving you do it may not be an issue.

      1998 Camaro Z28 - Bright Red, 6.0 TR224, 4l60e, 3.42 Eaton TrueTrac
      1989 Camaro IROC-Z Convertible - 355 big tube TPI, WC T5, 3.42 Zexel Torsen, CTS-V/C4 brakes
      1955 Bel Air 2 Door Post - 357 TPI, Muncie M20, 4 wheel disc

      2006 Saab 9-7x 5.3i Daily Driver

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      • #18
        God all this talk about cars has me ready for some summer fun! keep the comments coming guys. Thanks!!!!
        sigpic
        98' Formula M6..Texas Speed PRC 5.3 2.5 Head..Comp 228R .588/.588 cam..180* Thermo..Stenod tune..L/T's..O/R-Y..Dynomax Ultra-flo w/ elect cut out..LS6 manifold..Lid..B&M..Hotchkis LCA's..Moser 9-inch with 4.11's..adj. tq. arm..chrome z06 wheels

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        • #19
          I'm ready as well! May or may not pull the trigger on one more big ticket item (besides cosmetics)...450 for a torque arm setup is a tough one to swallow

          1998 Camaro Z28 - Bright Red, 6.0 TR224, 4l60e, 3.42 Eaton TrueTrac
          1989 Camaro IROC-Z Convertible - 355 big tube TPI, WC T5, 3.42 Zexel Torsen, CTS-V/C4 brakes
          1955 Bel Air 2 Door Post - 357 TPI, Muncie M20, 4 wheel disc

          2006 Saab 9-7x 5.3i Daily Driver

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          • #20
            Trust me when I say I feel you 110% !!! It's a big decision to basically use the better part of my tax money and put it towards something in my car. Luckily its justifiable since my 10 bolt is shot and I knew this was coming at some point. Just looking to do it right from here on. All the engine stuff I did was on a budget and now that I look back, I wish I would have done a lot of things differently if I was to do it now. Whatever, you live and you learn but like I said, Im not trying to cut corners on anything else.
            sigpic
            98' Formula M6..Texas Speed PRC 5.3 2.5 Head..Comp 228R .588/.588 cam..180* Thermo..Stenod tune..L/T's..O/R-Y..Dynomax Ultra-flo w/ elect cut out..LS6 manifold..Lid..B&M..Hotchkis LCA's..Moser 9-inch with 4.11's..adj. tq. arm..chrome z06 wheels

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            • #21
              When you say "I plan on putting the screws to it and know the 9 is the way to go" do you mean you're really going to hit it hard, or boost it?

              1998 Camaro Z28 - Bright Red, 6.0 TR224, 4l60e, 3.42 Eaton TrueTrac
              1989 Camaro IROC-Z Convertible - 355 big tube TPI, WC T5, 3.42 Zexel Torsen, CTS-V/C4 brakes
              1955 Bel Air 2 Door Post - 357 TPI, Muncie M20, 4 wheel disc

              2006 Saab 9-7x 5.3i Daily Driver

              Comment


              • #22
                You would be better off getting a tru trac or some sort of posi diff. A spool is over kill especially for a street car, with anything other than a 28" slick on a 15" rim your car will push and hop turning into a parking spot/ driveway.. Not to sound like a butt head but your car is probably a mid 12 sec car at best, you will not have problems with a diff at your power level. Or even a few hundred more HP. Lca relocation brackets are a good idea along with a shorter style tq arm if you're trying to get down the 1320. 4.10 is good for a 6 speed car at that power.
                1998 Camaro SS Bullseye Turbo
                2002 F-250 7.3 Leveled on 20s with 35's
                2006 Yamaha R6 50th Anniversary
                http://www.mifbody.com/vbulletin/sho...-Update/page11

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                • #23
                  From what Ive read, I dont think you understand what a spool is...

                  It is a step above a locker not below it....

                  It LITERALLY locks the two axles. They will always be turning at the same speed..


                  I plan on 9" w/ 4.56s 40sp spool. running 29s

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                  • #24
                    Where is everyone reading that they NEED 35+ spline axles in their 12+ sec. Cars?
                    -08 G8 GT DD: Rotofab CAI, HID's, Breyton Race GTS'
                    -86 Iroc Project: LQ4, Th400, S400, Ford 9"

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                    • #25
                      Disagree, reading what a spool is online and from what the definition is, a spool or mini spool like mentioned isn't a true locker and doesn't turn the wheels equally and is a below that of a true detroit locker. As far as power goes, I don't care what it will run now as previously stated, I plan on rebuilding eventually and want to have a rock solid axle for the future. Even in its current state over 400 rwhp is plenty for a high 11 sec run but like I said I can care less about that now. I also will be spraying it eventually so like I said its all about making the rear bullet proof. I've already turned a 12.72 at milan babying it with the stock 17 x 8 rims with lousy balding tires and a going clutch (since installed the monster stage 3) so Im not worried Rims and tires being changed. thanks
                      sigpic
                      98' Formula M6..Texas Speed PRC 5.3 2.5 Head..Comp 228R .588/.588 cam..180* Thermo..Stenod tune..L/T's..O/R-Y..Dynomax Ultra-flo w/ elect cut out..LS6 manifold..Lid..B&M..Hotchkis LCA's..Moser 9-inch with 4.11's..adj. tq. arm..chrome z06 wheels

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                      • #26
                        You are WRONG! sorry don't mean to me so forward but a spool, as Matt mentioned, is not a form of unlocking differential I don't care what you ever read its straight fact that a spool is literally interlock the axles. Now that we got that out of the way I will explain why they are shitty for a street driven car, especially one with a street tire. Because the spool never unlocks and the wheels always turn at the same rate from side to side this causes the car to not like to turn much, it not only wears on the axles over time but the tires will hop and squeal while turning. The slower speed you turn the worse it will be. The only setup that really makes this more tolerable would be to run a soft sidewall tire on a smaller rim to get more sidewall so it will flex more on turns and not be as bad. This also leads to premature tire wear regardless of the tires.

                        As for relocation brackets I will always recommend them to anyone that has enough power to upgrade to a 9" most likely if you do you will be drag racing it and the more adjustability the better. The 35 spline axles will probably handle whatever you plan to throw at it. Drain/fill plug is a great idea as well. I assume your going to run stock length?
                        Doing less with more


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                        • #27
                          this picture will help for reference the spool is on the left and a more standard differential on the right. As you can see the spool has no internal components and is just a solid piece that the axles slide into.

                          0605ch_17_moser_spool_z.jpg
                          Doing less with more


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                          • #28
                            Originally posted by hoogiesngrinderz View Post
                            Thinking about it now, if the LCA bracket bolt holes are in an arc pattern it could help with anti-squat. Mine are linear, but the car is dropped and has fully adjustable linkages.
                            Correct. Also an instant center adjustment.


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                            • #29
                              Originally posted by shawnc16 View Post
                              Where is everyone reading that they NEED 35+ spline axles in their 12+ sec. Cars?
                              wondering the same thing.. lol




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                              • #30
                                40 spline won't last long on the street. They are to hard to be able to take the twisting that street driving would cause

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