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So we're going to Lemons at Gingerville Oct 9th. The big discussion over there is how to make a SBC last and not blow up. They all seem to blow up early for many reasons?
What is your oil pressure doing before the engine goes south?
If it is flucuating more that 5 psi you might have an oil aeration problem.
Adding an extra quart of oil to the pan will only make it foam worse.
I test this on Engines at work and it will get worse if you add more oil to the pan.
Right now we are running good oil pressure. The issue is somewhere during the race SBCs expire. Whether is be foaming oil, cooling, or spun bearings. Trying to bulletproof the motor the best I can.
I think that putting the GM "white" oil pump spring in my LT1 is one of the best things ive ever done for its longevity. I believe the white spring was used in vortec truck motors but im not sure. In any case, it drastically improved my oil pressure. Also I have been told that its good to run an extra 1/2 quart in an SBC when racing to make sure the bearings dont get starved. Im unsure of the truth in that though.
What is your oil pressure doing before the engine goes south?
If it is flucuating more that 5 psi you might have an oil aeration problem.
Adding an extra quart of oil to the pan will only make it foam worse.
I test this on Engines at work and it will get worse if you add more oil to the pan.
Is your testing done on a stationary stand or an environment where close to 1 lateral G is continually acting on it?
Right now we are very stationary. Getting ready to dig into an intake leak. Race is October 9th endurance race. Working on installing a tranny cooler and trying to get it running right. All the while worrying about all the SBC that blow up at a lemons event. Like us last year with the TPI 305.
Check out the link in the sig, and you'll see the madness....
Extra oil in the pan will not help your problem as stated above. Anything above the full mark on the dipstick and you risk foaming it up. You need windage control in the pan and a big oil cooler like a hayden unit. Get an oil cooler with a header design, not a continous unit like the common B&M ones. Put a oil temp gauge on it too. I have a big Hayden cooler sitting on the shelf if your interested. Also the spring as Joel suggested would be a nice addtion. It's usually referred to as the Z28 white spring. I may have one of those sitting around as well.
Extra oil in the pan will not help your problem as stated above. Anything above the full mark on the dipstick and you risk foaming it up. You need windage control in the pan and a big oil cooler like a hayden unit. Get an oil cooler with a header design, not a continous unit like the common B&M ones. Put a oil temp gauge on it too. I have a big Hayden cooler sitting on the shelf if your interested. Also the spring as Joel suggested would be a nice addtion. It's usually referred to as the Z28 white spring. I may have one of those sitting around as well.
Extra oil in the pan will not help your problem as stated above. Anything above the full mark on the dipstick and you risk foaming it up. You need windage control in the pan and a big oil cooler like a hayden unit. Get an oil cooler with a header design, not a continous unit like the common B&M ones. Put a oil temp gauge on it too. I have a big Hayden cooler sitting on the shelf if your interested. Also the spring as Joel suggested would be a nice addtion. It's usually referred to as the Z28 white spring. I may have one of those sitting around as well.
If he is not interested in that cooler I might be.
Need more Info on the engine. Flat tappet camshaft or roller, Cast iron heads or Aluminum, Maximum oil pan capacity without the filter, side saddle oil pan or stock, Hi volume oil pump or stock, Carb or injected and size, what kind of oil do you use Viscosity and type, etc....
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