Welcome to the Michigan FBody Association website.
The Michigan FBody Association is a centralized website for FBody enthusiasts to discuss what's going on in the Michigan area. MiFbody.com was created to allow for an easy one-stop place to find out what's going on in Michigan as far as FBody events, to find out what clubs are available in your immediate area, and for an easy place to post classifieds for items you want to sell! Our goal was to create a more close-knit community of FBody enthusiasts in the state of Michigan, and to bring Camaro and Firebird enthusiasts alike together for some amazing FBody events!
The most important thing to know about the Michigan FBody Association is that we are NOT a club! The Michigan FBody Association is open to everyone, and is a community. Thus, we will have get togethers, casual cruises, events, and such like that, but this is not an exclusive club and it's 100% free to join this site! So what are you waiting for? Register now!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us!
Picked up and installed the door. Still waiting on the ground effects, emblem and mirror. Color is right on. Paints not bad. I did manage to chip it, lol. No biggie though. I might have to swap out the glass, its a bit scratched up. Needs a quick wet sand and buff , but Ill do that later.
Now, to get the hatch done....
ok I have the front of the engine in order now. I had to use a F body power steering pump and pulley, truck alternator, water pump, and air cond condenser. I used ict billet bracketry from ebay.20150801_152243.jpg I don't know why its side ways, sorry.
Concerning the water pump. I intend to modify the truck pump to have a upper hose connection in the ls location. I have already removed to old nipple that came out the top. I will cut a piece of aluminum plate ad weld it in. I am either going to weld an aluminum nipple into the new location or tap and thread one into it.
I need to get some bolts for the intake manifold.
I also need to roll the motor over on the stand, and remove the truck pan and install the f body pan and innerds. then I can mate up the trans, and crossmember for mock up. cant wait!
Last edited by zeeman; August 1st, 2015, 02:55 PM.
Well I couldnt resist anymore... Ebay was calling my name. Taillights have been procured. Honeycomb taillights arent the cheapest. But I did ok. Still need a dash and dash pad but some progress is better than none.
Motor and trans bolted together, and installed for mock up today. Radiator and fans are in. Plenty of room . No issues. So, monday, back out it comes. Tear down begins.
Motor looked good inside, clean. Trans looked ok too, which suprised me. I figured it was going to be junk but it was pretty clean inside. So were gunna run it!
I had to customize the trans xmember qith a bit of bfh persuasion. But that was it. Fans, radiator in, no clearance issues.
So today I picked up a dash and upper dash pad, and another t/a hatch. Got a truck throttle body also. Motor is back out and on the stand for tear down. Still dont know what I want to build, but I am leaning towards n/a with 4.8 pistons and an ls 6 cam. Turbo seems like a lot of work.
I started painting the front suspension components today. I akso cleaned and painted the top of the crossmember. Tomorrow I am going to add a plate to the bottom of the crossmember for lifting, and paint it. Then focus on the other side of the suspension. Its coming along.....
I used a wire wheel on my 4 inch grinder, and a wire cup to remove as much of the rust as possible. Then I used purple power cleaner to wash everything using a red scotch bright pad to scrub with. Rinse thoroughly , that stuff is had to get off, everything feels slimy for a bit. I then washed it with dish soap, and that seemed to make it better. Nothing fancy just a quick scrub and rinse.
The paint is something a youtube user by the handle jo daddys garage used in a video. He said he really liked it a lot, so I tried it. He wasn't kidding it works great. Its sold at Harbor freight. Its labeled as chassis paint , By Iron Armor. I t can be used directly over bare metal, I believe it is self etching. It said NOT to use it over self etch primer. (whoops) I guess Ill find out why. But the really weird thing was the recoat window. You have 7 hours to touch up or add coats after that you need to wait 7 days. If you don't it checks real bad. So I have a spot to fix .....
I am going to do the rear end and the assorted arms with it at some point. For $5.00 a can its hard to beat.
Have I mentioned that I despise Douche bags? I recently purchased a set of honey comb taillights from ebay. The ad stated that one was cracked, and showed a picture. Yup looks cracked to me to no biggie. So, the package arrives and each light is individually wrapped in plastic and taped shut. there are a couple pieces of butchers paper crumpled up inside as packaging. I open up the first light and its the supposed "cracked" one with a fist sized chunk missing from it. the other one is pristine. So looking around in the box I find the missing chunk, but wait how did it get outside of the plastic wrapper? Hmmmm a mystery! so when I fit the piece back on the light it looks great just like the picture , but if you shake it ,plop, it falls out. So now I have to go through all the return processes and deal with ebay buyers protection because some ******* wanted to screw someone. I hope I get to hammer him with his rating at least. ffs.
I used a wire wheel on my 4 inch grinder, and a wire cup to remove as much of the rust as possible. Then I used purple power cleaner to wash everything using a red scotch bright pad to scrub with. Rinse thoroughly , that stuff is had to get off, everything feels slimy for a bit. I then washed it with dish soap, and that seemed to make it better. Nothing fancy just a quick scrub and rinse.
The paint is something a youtube user by the handle jo daddys garage used in a video. He said he really liked it a lot, so I tried it. He wasn't kidding it works great. Its sold at Harbor freight. Its labeled as chassis paint , By Iron Armor. I t can be used directly over bare metal, I believe it is self etching. It said NOT to use it over self etch primer. (whoops) I guess Ill find out why. But the really weird thing was the recoat window. You have 7 hours to touch up or add coats after that you need to wait 7 days. If you don't it checks real bad. So I have a spot to fix .....
I am going to do the rear end and the assorted arms with it at some point. For $5.00 a can its hard to beat.
That sounds pretty awesome. I've been looking to try something new. Wasn't terribly happy with the durability of the Eastwood product I've used previously.
Ill let you know once its cured completely,what I think of it. Either way its still better than the rusty crap finish that I had.
So a bit of a dilemma. I need a dash and upper dash pad. I recently aquired an early style dash and pad but I have reservations about installing it. I would prefer the correct dash but Im not a rich man. Or very patient. So should I just go ahead and install the earlier style dash, or hold out for the corect one? I just dont know what to do about it. Ive chased 3 that all turned out to be crap so far.
Started tearing the motor down today. The cylinders still have crosshatching in them and the motor is really clean inside. I have one head off ,looks real good inside.
So 4.8 pistons and port the shiz out of the heads, cam, headers , tune. truck throttle body. Here we go!
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