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6 speed torque arm mount... Not my best friend

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  • 6 speed torque arm mount... Not my best friend

    Just wondering, does anyone here have as much trouble with these things as i do? Seems like everytime i have my torque arm off the car, i spend no less than 45 minutes trying to get this bolt started into the threads again. There is barely enough clearance to do anything. Today i spent more time not getting this bolt back in place than i did assembling the entire transmission. loosened up the bracket, crossmember, even rebent the bracket to make it align better, and tried various bolts... Nothing. Ive had it with this thing and im about ready to drop whatever the cost is of a crossmember mounted setup to never have to deal with this again. Is there something stupid i am missing?

    Last edited by JoeliusZ28; August 25th, 2013, 10:38 PM.
    -Joel
    1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
    1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


    WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

  • #2
    dont think ive ever taken one off. just slid it out. Of coarse i havent dealt with the stock style in years

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    • #3
      If I remember right, I pulled the crossmember out and let the transmission drop out of the tunnel a little bit. Are you doing it with the suspension loaded or unloaded when using the lift?

      1998 Camaro Z28 - Bright Red, 6.0 TR224, 4l60e, 3.42 Eaton TrueTrac
      1989 Camaro IROC-Z Convertible - 355 big tube TPI, WC T5, 3.42 Zexel Torsen, CTS-V/C4 brakes
      1955 Bel Air 2 Door Post - 357 TPI, Muncie M20, 4 wheel disc

      2006 Saab 9-7x 5.3i Daily Driver

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      • #4
        They can be a PITA. I redesigned mine years ago out of billet aluminum so it's much easier to assemble.
        sigpic
        Turbo Charged LS1/T56

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        • #5
          Mine gave me issues too.

          Next time (although I hope there isnt a next time), I am going to try it with the rear suspension loaded.
          1998 Chevrolet Camaro Z28 - 6 Speed

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          • #6
            my rear suspension was half unloaded and i didnt even think about that being a possbility... the front of the torque arm doesnt seem to be the issue, its getting both brackets aligned correctly on top of the trans. But honestly that bolt is hard to get started even with them both out of the way!
            [MENTION=490]WMCCjames[/MENTION] - curious what you did, do you want to make another one of those parts for a profit?
            -Joel
            1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
            1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


            WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

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            • #7
              Joel - just jack the rearend until it lines up.

              It'll take some playing with. Or just grab it and he-man it into place.
              2000 Formula
              fixed slow junk

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              • #8
                Its not that it doesnt line up, the bolt just doesnt start. I was using a mirror to check, i really dont understand why its always such a pita.
                -Joel
                1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
                1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


                WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

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                • #9
                  Because it's a car and it likes to mess with you!
                  2000 Formula
                  fixed slow junk

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                  • #10
                    what are you removing it for? when i swapped rear ends in my driveway on jackstands, i didnt have to remove the torque arm whatsoever.
                    sigpic

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by dirtybird View Post
                      what are you removing it for? when i swapped rear ends in my driveway on jackstands, i didnt have to remove the torque arm whatsoever.
                      sounds like he rebuilt the trans
                      '91 Camaro Modded, LSx, House of Kolor Intense White, lowered, GS chrome 18" wheels, 14" Brembo CTS-V on all 4 corners, LS rear end, FP suspension components

                      " When in doubt...throttle out ! "
                      ENVYsion Entertainment Group

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                      • #12
                        I just had my rearend out for a suspensino rebuild. I put it back in with it unbolted from the rearend. I had the trans in with crossmember in. I loosened the bolt on the trans bracket and removed the two long rearend bolts. Makes it a lot easier to move the arm around and get it back into place. When back in, put bolts into the rearend loosely. Tighten the trans bolt. Then tighten the back two bolts... Thats what worked for me. Actually, I didn't even know it was a "PITA" if you didn't do it that way...
                        (you might have to drop the trans back down now that the bolt is out, to get it back in several threads deep, but leave it loose)

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                        • #13
                          I replaced the clutch.

                          Also i have a poly torque arm bushing and a tubular torque arm... Which you think would make things harder but again it doesnt seem like it is impossible to get everything aligned, the bolt just doesnt start. I know its never been crossed threaded either.
                          -Joel
                          1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
                          1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


                          WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

                          Comment

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