Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

4l60e issues

Collapse
X
Collapse
Who has read this thread:
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • 4l60e issues

    Randomly on my way to work my trans decides it no longer wants to shift and also slips so bad it won't move. My works about 15 mins away and my trans didn't start messing up till about mid way. Now there has been no other weird symptoms before, the trans has shifted great before. But now it only moves when cold started and when it warms up it goes to shit again. Checked the fluid and it looked good, red and full. After warmed up, won't do anything except barely move in drive with overdrive off. it rolls backwards In drive with overdrive on, and in 1st 2nd. Sounds likea rattling or scratching noise when in neutral and park. Hopefully that can narrow it down for you guys.

  • #2
    It needs to be pulled apart for a full rebuild. That will narrow it down for you.


    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by c0ncEpT View Post
      It needs to be pulled apart for a full rebuild. That will narrow it down for you.

      Any ideas why it would do this out of the blue? It was shifting great before.

      Comment


      • #4
        If you want to gamble, try a fluid and filter change. Sometimes the filter will crack or become unseated. If not, pull it out and check the 1-2 band, 3-4 pack, and sun shell. But it does sound like you're losing line pressure...

        1998 Camaro Z28 - Bright Red, 6.0 TR224, 4l60e, 3.42 Eaton TrueTrac
        1989 Camaro IROC-Z Convertible - 355 big tube TPI, WC T5, 3.42 Zexel Torsen, CTS-V/C4 brakes
        1955 Bel Air 2 Door Post - 357 TPI, Muncie M20, 4 wheel disc

        2006 Saab 9-7x 5.3i Daily Driver

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by hoogiesngrinderz View Post
          If you want to gamble, try a fluid and filter change. Sometimes the filter will crack or become unseated. If not, pull it out and check the 1-2 band, 3-4 pack, and sun shell. But it does sound like you're losing line pressure...


          a filter and fuild change goes a long way....do NOT do a high pressure flush. How many miles are on your car ?
          '91 Camaro Modded, LSx, House of Kolor Intense White, lowered, GS chrome 18" wheels, 14" Brembo CTS-V on all 4 corners, LS rear end, FP suspension components

          " When in doubt...throttle out ! "
          ENVYsion Entertainment Group

          Comment


          • #6
            Yeah, don't flush it. Consider installing a drain when the pan is off, well worth the effort if you're ever going to drop the pan again

            1998 Camaro Z28 - Bright Red, 6.0 TR224, 4l60e, 3.42 Eaton TrueTrac
            1989 Camaro IROC-Z Convertible - 355 big tube TPI, WC T5, 3.42 Zexel Torsen, CTS-V/C4 brakes
            1955 Bel Air 2 Door Post - 357 TPI, Muncie M20, 4 wheel disc

            2006 Saab 9-7x 5.3i Daily Driver

            Comment


            • #7
              I actually had pretty much the same thing happen on my 95 TA. Working fine one day, nothing the next, turned out to be a broken sun shell.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by 59VetteFI View Post
                I actually had pretty much the same thing happen on my 95 TA. Working fine one day, nothing the next, turned out to be a broken sun shell.
                Broken sun shell is common and easy to diagnose. No reverse, 2nd, or 4th gear.

                1998 Camaro Z28 - Bright Red, 6.0 TR224, 4l60e, 3.42 Eaton TrueTrac
                1989 Camaro IROC-Z Convertible - 355 big tube TPI, WC T5, 3.42 Zexel Torsen, CTS-V/C4 brakes
                1955 Bel Air 2 Door Post - 357 TPI, Muncie M20, 4 wheel disc

                2006 Saab 9-7x 5.3i Daily Driver

                Comment


                • #9
                  110,000 miles. Where's the sun shell located? Thanks for the help guys. Way more helpful then ls1tech.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    It's in the center of the trans basically - Has to be fully torn down to replace it.
                    Have it towed to a reputable shop, and have them diagnose it and repair it with a "Beast" sunshell. See Image #624.

                    The little ring flange at the top commonly shears off. The "Beast" sunshell is reinforced in this area and will hold up to much more torque.
                    But....if its fine when its cold...then not when it warms up... I think there may be other issues.

                    I'd say drop the trans yourself, but it will only save you about $200 and most shops will not warranty the trans repair if they don't install it and road test.
                    One thing is for sure - if you plan on driving it for now, definitely let them do a total rebuild with clutches and converter ~$1200. I had mine fully "Built" for $1400 and it will handle around ~500-600hp (or so I am told)


                    If you decide to sell the trans as is...let me know. I may be interested.

                    4L60E.jpg
                    Last edited by TrickyTransAm; August 10th, 2012, 03:32 PM.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Im gunna try doin the filter today and see how that works. You fill the auto trans thorough the dipstick right? And how many quarts does it take to fill? I read after putting the fluid in, idle the car till warm and then put it in each gear for a few mins then check the fluid. Correct? This is my first auto trans so sorry for the 21 questions.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        That is the correct procedure

                        If your pan looks anything like mine you wont need to bother filling it. I had the same symptoms as you did when my converter took a shit sending shavings through the entire trans and valve body.

                        IMO changing the fluid is a waste of money at this point. But I've been wrong many times before



                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Lol looks like ill drop the pan before I go buy anything.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            If the trans does up being toast looks like I'll be goin with a TH400 with a reverse manual valve body because a 4L60 will not hold what my intentions with the car are.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by SloGrn View Post
                              Im gunna try doin the filter today and see how that works. You fill the auto trans thorough the dipstick right? And how many quarts does it take to fill? I read after putting the fluid in, idle the car till warm and then put it in each gear for a few mins then check the fluid. Correct? This is my first auto trans so sorry for the 21 questions.
                              Agree with waste of $ but you can try.

                              With just a pan change 6-8 quarts probably. Mabee a little more. Start out by pouring fluid into the filler tube and check with the dipstick. Once it registers on the stick, start the vehicle and let it warm the fluid up. Top the fluid off with the trans Hot. Don't overfill. Range through the gears at idle.
                              Make sure you don't gouge the valve body by extracting the filter seal.
                              If you scratch that it can cause low line pressure since the fluid will aerate and muck things up worse.

                              If all you can afford is a flush/filter why don't you have a trans shop do it? Its usually only around $100-150. The ATF to flush it properly will run you close to that plus parts anyway. Plus...the bonus... free diagnosis and estimate.
                              Last edited by TrickyTransAm; August 10th, 2012, 03:40 PM.

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X