R1cefed's turbo build.

[Fox Slaughter]

This is why I want a S60.

Strange
Strange S60 Dana Rear End
F-Body Dana Rear End Features:
25lbs heavier than a 12 bolt, 10lbs heavier than a 9"
Standard True-Track Diff w/Power-Lock
35 Spline Posi
All new casting using 3.0" OD Tubing, 1/4" Thick
Large ring gear than 12 bolt (by 0.875) and 9" (by 0.75)
Standard Dana Gear can handle 1200RWHP
Many Gear Options
LT1 build in mounts - LS1 requires backing plates to be sent in!

[kammi10]

This is why I want a S60.

Strange
Strange S60 Dana Rear End
F-Body Dana Rear End Features:
25lbs heavier than a 12 bolt, 10lbs heavier than a 9"
Standard True-Track Diff w/Power-Lock
35 Spline Posi
All new casting using 3.0" OD Tubing, 1/4" Thick
Large ring gear than 12 bolt (by 0.875) and 9" (by 0.75)
Standard Dana Gear can handle 1200RWHP
Many Gear Options
LT1 build in mounts - LS1 requires backing plates to be sent in!

pretty sure 9inch rears can handle well over 1200rwhp as well.. and they are lighter then a s60.. which they are already much heavier then a 10 bolt.

[ThreeHonks]

9" has the same setup for the bearings on the ends as well... The only axles that aren't like that are the 10 bolt and 8.8

[DETROITMUSCLE]

Midwest chasis can make a fab 9 that is lighter than a 10 bolt btw.

[r1cefed]

Fab 9" would be my 1st choice. Its just the $$$

[OIF1VET]

Fab 9" would be my 1st choice. Its just the $$$

Exactly.. Might just keep saving my pennies..

[kammi10]

Midwest chasis can make a fab 9 that is lighter than a 10 bolt btw.

Fab 9" would be my 1st choice. Its just the $$$

yeah.. its super expensive and completely overkill for a street car.

[DETROITMUSCLE]

yeah.. its super expensive and completely overkill for a street car.

exactly, the likes of which can be found on Brent's car.

[kammi10]

Midwest chasis can make a fab 9 that is lighter than a 10 bolt btw.

exactly, the likes of which can be found on Brent's car.

exactly... exactly that..

[Nocooler]

I like my fab 9" in my street car.....mines back braced too, which is really overkill

Takes a beating and it's cake to set gears up.....I seem to have an issue breaking them in long enough, but that's another story.

The turbo build looks good!

[r1cefed]

Got my guages hooked up now...still need a spot to put my wideband/data logger though.

They look pink in the picture but they are red.

[r1cefed]

Finally the propane is in and ready. The tank I ended up using was custom made by boiler makers it literally is 3 layers thick. (not that it is needed I just got a deal) Should be perfectly safe where its at. I have seen lesser tanks take a rifle shot and not burst so I have alot of faith in these. The install was very simple as well due to the rear mount turbo all lines were very short to run.

All I did was tap into a boost line before my boost controller as well as tap a feed line before my turbo with 1/8npt and an elbow which you cannot see because it is on the topside of my filter pipe. Besides wiring 12 volts to the solenoid and bolting the tank that was pretty much it.

I am very happy with how clean it came out. It is very simple how it works it is pretty much just a fully adjustable boost biased regulator. (like used on forced induction cars to increase fuel pressure at a 1:1 psi ratio with boost. I can set it to start flowing at any boost and deliver a tremendous amount of extra fuel all on a curve with the boost being mixed in the turbo. No electronics besides a solenoid to shut it off. So far I have it set to start flowing at .5psi of boost pressure and PROGRESSIVLY flow to 2 cfm at 5 psi and 4cfm at 10 psi.(just a baseline before the tuner plays with it) Total flow can be adjusted by one screw as well as the start time and I will use my wideband as well to fine tune it once I am running the boost up. I just need a good safe starting point.