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Subframe connectors, 2 point or 3 point what's your thoughts

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  • #31
    Originally posted by squareandcompass View Post
    1-800-523-3353 Call em. It's free.
    Lol, you beat me too it
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    o·vr·kill [oh-ver-kil]1. an excess of what is required or suitable, as because of zeal or misjudgment.

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    • #32
      Originally posted by bri2203 View Post
      IT VERY IMPORTANT THE VEHICLE IS SUPPORTED IN A SIMILAR WAY TO WHEN THE VEHICLE IS ON THE GROUND. Especially if your going to weld them. It might not very apparent on 4th gen hardtops but on converts, 1st and 2nd gens, and olders cars your door gaps change dramatically if the car is supported by the subframe. Ideally you want to install them on a drive on hoist but next best thing is so support the car by the axle, and the outer most portion of the front lower control arms or front tires if there is a safe way to do so.

      If you are going to bolt them in I would suggest starting the bolts by a few threads then put it on the ground and tighten them up, and later welding them up if you choose.

      This thread reminds me that I want to make my own sub frame connectors.
      Yeah I think I wrote that backwards. My bad.
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      And another thing.....when I gun the motor, I want the whole world to think it's coming to an end.
      -Homer Simpson

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      • #33
        i got 3 point bolt on's umi brand and it made a difference also replaced the lower control arms and panhard bar. got everything from summit.

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        • #34
          i also lowered my car 1.5" and depending on the speed bumps i dont bottom out too bad.

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          • #35
            Originally posted by squareandcompass View Post
            Just bolted in. I could of taken the additional time to weld. However, I couldn't see welding as I will never run big horsepower and torque. Not trying to sell you, just throwing out another suggestion. Decisions, decisions
            Bolting in for fabrication purposes is fine, but I would never advise anyone to do bolt-in connectors and leave them that way. Even on a stock car. The whole point of subframe connectors is for rigidity, which requires welds. Bolt-ins may be snug at first, but the bolts will loosen as will the holes. Sub frame connectors in general are not as much of a strengthening mod as people make them out to be IMO. If youre running big horsepower and torque, you want a cage -- and one tied into subframe connectors at that. I am making 373rwhp with a strong clutch (shockloads the chasis quite a bit) and welded 3-point connectors. Its not enough to stop my quarter panels from wrinkling. My car is mid 12s at best.
            Last edited by JoeliusZ28; February 4th, 2011, 10:32 AM.
            -Joel
            1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
            1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


            WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

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            • #36
              Well I ending up buying the S&W unit with the torque arm, not quite certain how it mounts from the pictures they have but I'll figure it out once it gets here, and I agree joel, the bolts will be to hold it in place while welding it up and thats it...while om thinking of it would there be any issue with leaving the bolts in once its welded?
              The Chevy Camaro was built with a single purpose in mind which it executes flawlessly...Going very very fast in a straight line until your hair catches on fire.



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              • #37
                definitely not. could even weld the bolts if you wanted!
                -Joel
                1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
                1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


                WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

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