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  • changing spark plugs

    I think one of my spark plugs has gone bad. Some helpful tips on getting them all out looks pretty tight in their.
    SLP lid, smooth bellew, Kateck valve covers, Trextralia 700oz clutch, Pro 5.0 shifter, SLP loud mouth cat back. Torque Thrust M

  • #2
    lol not really, make sure the car isnt hot and shove ur hand in there. its a PITA on our cars.
    wishing i could drive like joe and the atm squad

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    • #3
      Originally posted by MunsterZ28 View Post
      lol not really, make sure the car isnt hot and shove ur hand in there. its a PITA on our cars.
      let me rephrase that, its a ***** on an LT1 with exhaust manifolds, LS1's are not that bad at all

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      • #4
        Drivers side fairly simple, passenger a *****... Some people pull their coil packs off for more room. Just lay down on the motor and shove your hand back there, I thought it was impossible but with a little patience you can do em.. You just have to learn your own tricks..
        sigpic
        U.S. Army 1983-2005
        11.20@122.37 1.51 60'

        Originally posted by WMCCjames

        "Plans Subject to change upon Sobering up"

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        • #5
          Larry said it, take off the coil packs (at least the passenger side) it take 2 minutes and gives you more room. Then get up into the engine bay if your smaller I like to put my knee on the battery and rest my other leg on the airbox assembly. Lean forward and reach your left hand to the back of the motor and you'll be able to get them out.
          Doing less with more


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          • #6
            I think it the plug. I'm not getting any engine codes/lights
            SLP lid, smooth bellew, Kateck valve covers, Trextralia 700oz clutch, Pro 5.0 shifter, SLP loud mouth cat back. Torque Thrust M

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            • #7
              Yea just unbolt the 4 coil packs bolts, and loosen the 5th one (im pretty sure there are 5), and shift it up to give you room. I also removed part of the AIR on the passenger side to give me a little more access. This past summer was the first spark plug change on the 00 and it was a PITA, my boots and plugs were stuck in there pretty good haha.

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              • #8
                Spark plugs on an F body are enough to make anybody want headers. I can change all my plugs in a matter of minutes now. Headers FTW, lol. To be honest, that was one of the reasons I put the headers on back in 2002. I had the tranny out and needed to do a tune up. Eric L

                1997 Camaro SS #2819 M6, Red, 3.42, 1 of 27, Ttops, BBK shorty headers, Flowmaster cat back, 1.6 rr, LT4 valve springs, ASAM CAI, Centerforce clutch, runs 12s, breaks 10 bolts.
                http://s602.photobucket.com/albums/t...20Camaro%20SS/


                1963 Plymouth Valiant Signet 200, 6.0 LS3, Carb, Rapid Motorsports Dominator 2X cam.
                http://s602.photobucket.com/albums/t...uth%20Valiant/

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                • #9
                  If your Engine has Aluminum Heads it is a good idea to apply a very thin coat of anti-seize compound on the threads of the Spark plug before you install them. Be sure to wipe off any excess anti-seize compound.
                  It is not uncommon for dissimilar metals to cold weld without proper precautions.
                  Think of this as cheap insurance against costly head work down the road.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by ezcruisn71 View Post
                    If your Engine has Aluminum Heads it is a good idea to apply a very thin coat of anti-seize compound on the threads of the Spark plug before you install them. Be sure to wipe off any excess anti-seize compound.
                    It is not uncommon for dissimilar metals to cold weld without proper precautions.
                    Think of this as cheap insurance against costly head work down the road.
                    Is this only for aluminum heads? I've put anti-seize on every spark plug I've installed unaware of the aluminum head stipulation. Anyone know if the heads on a vortec 4.3 are aluminum?
                    2000 Trans Am l 1967 Firebird

                    sigpic

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                    • #11
                      I wont hurt to use the anti-seize on cast iron heads as well.
                      It is a real good idea to use it on Aluminum heads.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Lucky SOB View Post
                        Is this only for aluminum heads? I've put anti-seize on every spark plug I've installed unaware of the aluminum head stipulation. Anyone know if the heads on a vortec 4.3 are aluminum?
                        4.3 heads are cast iron..

                        2001 Bright Rally Red Camaro SS
                        - M6, Livernois Stage 3 ported 243 heads, Livernois 230/236 114 LSA cam, FRPP 36# injectors, Ported TB, SLP MAF, Volant CAI, Kooks 1 3/4 headers & ORY, GMMG Cat-back. Koni SA 4/3's, BMR springs, Founders Performance, STB, LCA's and Panhard bar.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by ezcruisn71 View Post
                          I wont hurt to use the anti-seize on cast iron heads as well.
                          It is a real good idea to use it on Aluminum heads.
                          Good advice!!! I've always used the stuff... the idea of fastening one type of metal with no barrier into another scares me... there's nothing like pulling plugs out.. to find that the threads from the head came with it!!!
                          Last edited by Dummybait; December 2nd, 2010, 09:48 AM.

                          2001 Bright Rally Red Camaro SS
                          - M6, Livernois Stage 3 ported 243 heads, Livernois 230/236 114 LSA cam, FRPP 36# injectors, Ported TB, SLP MAF, Volant CAI, Kooks 1 3/4 headers & ORY, GMMG Cat-back. Koni SA 4/3's, BMR springs, Founders Performance, STB, LCA's and Panhard bar.

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                          • #14
                            i've never taken off coil packs.. sometimes its easier to jack up the front end of the car and go from underneath for the #7 cyl. just my 2 cents
                            98 z28, m6, monster clutch, eibach pro kit, custom twin turbo setup, 317 heads, z06 valve springs, arp rod bolts, 512rwhp at 10lbs. cobra eater

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Gaspo View Post
                              i've never taken off coil packs.. sometimes its easier to jack up the front end of the car and go from underneath for the #7 cyl. just my 2 cents
                              What kind of headers? I have SLP and I can't even see the back to plugs, from underneath... My coil packs are relocated, so it's not to bad doing them(plugs)... Always seem to end up cut before it's all said and done though..
                              sigpic
                              U.S. Army 1983-2005
                              11.20@122.37 1.51 60'

                              Originally posted by WMCCjames

                              "Plans Subject to change upon Sobering up"

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