nascarnate z28 future ??'s

[Darren]

I think you're going in the right direction, Nate. It's awesome how everyone on this site tells people not to do an engine swap from v6 to v8 and now everyone's doing a 180 and saying do it.

v6 to v8 is a big difference from v8 to v8...

[meissen]

v6 to v8 is a big difference from v8 to v8...

Not when you're going from LTx to LSx/5.3. It's exactly the same - new engine, new kmember, new transmission, new wiring harness, new PCM... If you're buying a low mileage LT1, then yes it's just plug and play, but otherwise it's just as much work as a v6 to v8 swap.

[Darren]

Not when you're going from LTx to LSx/5.3. It's exactly the same - new engine, new kmember, new transmission, new wiring harness, new PCM... If you're buying a low mileage LT1, then yes it's just plug and play, but otherwise it's just as much work as a v6 to v8 swap.

I agree but seems like many people and Nate are pushing the LT1 to LT1 so its plug and play. That swap would be super easy.

[ThreeHonks]

lol

[prorac1]

First, you have to figure out what you want to do with the car. Saying I want a cam and 300 hp is retarded. Im willing to bet that my bolt on LT1 (although a freak) is 300 hp to the wheels. Just do a basic rebuild with a custom ground baby cam. You will have great bottom end, good pull, and be fun to drive. I have a feeling that you use your car like I use mine. A fun daily driver. Picking a cam is mind numbing, lol, ask me how I know, lol. Good luck with whatever you decide Nate. Eric L

[JoeliusZ28]

First, you have to figure out what you want to do with the car. Saying I want a cam and 300 hp is retarded. Im willing to bet that my bolt on LT1 (although a freak) is 300 hp to the wheels. Just do a basic rebuild with a custom ground baby cam. You will have great bottom end, good pull, and be fun to drive. I have a feeling that you use your car like I use mine. A fun daily driver. Picking a cam is mind numbing, lol, ask me how I know, lol. Good luck with whatever you decide Nate. Eric L

and on that note nate, if youre worried about the 226/234 being too big for you - the 218/226 AI makes is a scaled down version of the same cam. In fact I believe those two as well as the 230/238 are all scaled versions of one another.

[thisisthewayilive]

I agree but seems like many people and Nate are pushing the LT1 to LT1 so its plug and play. That swap would be super easy.

easier and less expensive than an ls swap

[98blackbeauty]

Interesting read, And I can speak from both sides.
1. engine swap we did on Brians car. Yeah it was v6 to v8 but going to ls1 from LT1 is very close cost wise. You need a lot of conversion parts, ie k frame, trans, wire harness, PCM, ect. Then a ton of nickle dime stuff. Radiator hoses heater hoses etc. We dropped 200-400 on all that stuff after engine swap. Throttle cable different, trans cable different. etc. keeping in mind we still have an unknown condition LS1 engine with probably no upgrades
2. I redid my engine with very little cost new lifters, gaskets, and added headers and the big waker upper was getting it tuned by Steve. Your car is flywheel rated as 275 HP. (I know its not new) a LT4 cam and headers would take you to 300-310 HP at Fly wheel. Loss of HP on 6 speed drive train is small. So with some prudent shopping and parts gathering you could hit 295 to 300 hp for less than $500. gaskets, cam, headers. I still think a lot of people over exagerate the lack of opti reliability. Both B and I have used opti's my car has 130,000 miles.
3. Nate the big thing in my mind that is key to all this babble that I and everyone have put out is "How tired is your engine"? I would get compression check done. this will give you clue on rings and valve condition. Then you'll know how much machine work to revitalize your engine, bore yes no, valve job yes no, I would plan on new bearings. We had to have B's engine bored new pistons new bearings, regrind the crank and end bore bearing journals, Had him asm crank and fit rings etc all came to 1100. And a warrenty because he put it together. Assembly was 300.00 So my point is you could have a more powerfull motor for 1500 to 2500. including bolt ons.

[WMCCjames]

Interesting read, And I can speak from both sides.
1. engine swap we did on Brians car. Yeah it was v6 to v8 but going to ls1 from LT1 is very close cost wise. You need a lot of conversion parts, ie k frame, trans, wire harness, PCM, ect. Then a ton of nickle dime stuff. Radiator hoses heater hoses etc. We dropped 200-400 on all that stuff after engine swap. Throttle cable different, trans cable different. etc. keeping in mind we still have an unknown condition LS1 engine with probably no upgrades
2. I redid my engine with very little cost new lifters, gaskets, and added headers and the big waker upper was getting it tuned by Steve. Your car is flywheel rated as 275 HP. (I know its not new) a LT4 cam and headers would take you to 300-310 HP at Fly wheel. Loss of HP on 6 speed drive train is small. So with some prudent shopping and parts gathering you could hit 295 to 300 hp for less than $500. gaskets, cam, headers. I still think a lot of people over exagerate the lack of opti reliability. Both B and I have used opti's my car has 130,000 miles.
3. Nate the big thing in my mind that is key to all this babble that I and everyone have put out is "How tired is your engine"? I would get compression check done. this will give you clue on rings and valve condition. Then you'll know how much machine work to revitalize your engine, bore yes no, valve job yes no, I would plan on new bearings. We had to have B's engine bored new pistons new bearings, regrind the crank and end bore bearing journals, Had him asm crank and fit rings etc all came to 1100. And a warrenty because he put it together. Assembly was 300.00 So my point is you could have a more powerfull motor for 1500 to 2500. including bolt ons.

Actually a leak-down test would be better than a compression test, it will give a better indication of the rings and valves. But all good suggestions!