Welcome to the Michigan FBody Association website.
The Michigan FBody Association is a centralized website for FBody enthusiasts to discuss what's going on in the Michigan area. MiFbody.com was created to allow for an easy one-stop place to find out what's going on in Michigan as far as FBody events, to find out what clubs are available in your immediate area, and for an easy place to post classifieds for items you want to sell! Our goal was to create a more close-knit community of FBody enthusiasts in the state of Michigan, and to bring Camaro and Firebird enthusiasts alike together for some amazing FBody events!
The most important thing to know about the Michigan FBody Association is that we are NOT a club! The Michigan FBody Association is open to everyone, and is a community. Thus, we will have get togethers, casual cruises, events, and such like that, but this is not an exclusive club and it's 100% free to join this site! So what are you waiting for? Register now!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us!
Shocks and springs look great Joel. Are those the bmr's?
2002 Z28 Camaro A4 1993 Z28 Camaro M6- SOLD 1999 Z28 Camaro M6- SOLD 2008 Ford Fusion SE - DD
-- MCALUS MOLDED PILLAR PODS, PM ME FOR MORE INFO--
sigpic
Has anyone run into this issue before? My entire night was spent trying to get these T-50 shock bolts to start. No dice. No matter what I did, the spring mount wants to have a gap just large enough so the bolt cant start. And when it does "start" it starts in the shock tower and pushes the isolator down. I used an undersized bolt to pull the isolator up into place (pictured below) and even that didnt work... the gap comes right back as soon as i remove the bolt even with the weight of the car on the spring. Even with 3/4 bolts clamped down i cant get the 4th T50 to start.
I know one thing, I'm about to go to the hardware store and replace these godforsaken T50 bolts with something thats actually usable... And my back hurts!
In other, better news, here's a Chevrolet clock we got my dad for his bday
I've never had that problem before. . . I've always put the torx bolts in first, though, since they are a little harder to line up. I just had my suspension apart on the red car a few months ago, and it went back together no problems.
YES!!! I have one on my passenger side tower that WILL NOT START. It's been out on two separate occasions and both times the same problem. I thought I was the only one. Mine was more of an alignment issue than a gap issue, but there was a bit of a gap too.
2 things to check that may help:
1.) Make sure the threaded insert thingy isn't spinning in the mount. I had to put vice grips on the outside of it to get it to tighten. Can't remember if this was the difficult one or not, but still something to check.
2.) Make sure the threads on the bolt and the insert aren't galled at all. Even though it didn't seem like it would help, I eventually got it together by using a different bolt. And yes, using bolts with actual heads on them is much nicer. I think what happened on mine was that because the alignment was ever so slightly off, it caused the bolt to try to go in at a slight angle and crossthread after a few tries so that even when I finally got the alignment close enough it still wanted to do funky things.
YMMV
Also, if the gap is your entire problem, maybe buy a slightly longer bolt? Also, if you haven't, try it without the other 3 bolts fully tightened.
Last edited by birdie2000; February 16th, 2013, 03:38 AM.
I think the gap started the problem but is not the only issue. i am making positive contact with both, so it should start... But instead it pushes the isolator down until the bolt suddenly pops back up in the tower. I think the same thing happened to me where i first tried it slightly cross threaded because they werent lined up. I was using a cro-bar on the a-arm and reefing on it trying to start the bolt that way and now it still doesnt work. Seems to be lined up without using the cro bar now. The bolts got effed up but i mostly straightened them out by running them through the isolators in the old tower. I will have to check if the threaded piece is spinning, thats something i hadnt thought of.
loosen the hex bolts on the left so that they are barley holding, that gives the other bolts some wiggle room, thats what we had to do on my car and scotts.
loosen the hex bolts on the left so that they are barley holding, that gives the other bolts some wiggle room, thats what we had to do on my car and scotts.
Tried that - thats when i was using a cro bar on the upper a arm to align it
Comment