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Project: PBR-Built Z/28

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  • Originally posted by JoeliusZ28 View Post
    id say its held up well considering that.
    I agree.

    I could tell a difference in color on part of my LT1 calipers from one season, and I did use actual caliper hi temp paint.

    I think the only permeant solution is powder coat though.
    1998 Chevrolet Camaro Z28 - 6 Speed

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    • Agreed and im going to change to LS1 brakes before i bother with that.
      -Joel
      1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
      1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


      WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

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      • I cant believe I never got the first set that I had put on the car. What a waste of time that was lol. You will love it.
        1998 Chevrolet Camaro Z28 - 6 Speed

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        • Shocks and springs look great Joel. Are those the bmr's?
          2002 Z28 Camaro A4
          1993 Z28 Camaro M6- SOLD
          1999 Z28 Camaro M6- SOLD
          2008 Ford Fusion SE - DD
          -- MCALUS MOLDED PILLAR PODS, PM ME FOR MORE INFO--
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          • yep, bmrs in the front, slps in the rear. We'll see how it turns out.
            -Joel
            1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
            1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


            WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

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            • Have the shocks with you today?

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              • Originally posted by BP_Z28 View Post
                Have the shocks with you today?
                Sorry Rolo, i didnt have a chance to get them yesterday. I will pick them up next time i am the house, that way i can meet you anytime.
                -Joel
                1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
                1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


                WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

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                • Has anyone run into this issue before? My entire night was spent trying to get these T-50 shock bolts to start. No dice. No matter what I did, the spring mount wants to have a gap just large enough so the bolt cant start. And when it does "start" it starts in the shock tower and pushes the isolator down. I used an undersized bolt to pull the isolator up into place (pictured below) and even that didnt work... the gap comes right back as soon as i remove the bolt even with the weight of the car on the spring. Even with 3/4 bolts clamped down i cant get the 4th T50 to start.

                  I know one thing, I'm about to go to the hardware store and replace these godforsaken T50 bolts with something thats actually usable... And my back hurts!




                  In other, better news, here's a Chevrolet clock we got my dad for his bday
                  -Joel
                  1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
                  1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


                  WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

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                  • I've never had that problem before. . . I've always put the torx bolts in first, though, since they are a little harder to line up. I just had my suspension apart on the red car a few months ago, and it went back together no problems.
                    Nick H.
                    Current MIFC Vice President

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                    • More beer is the problem.

                      It will go from "What the heck it doesn't fit" to "Hey looks good to me".
                      Originally posted by Yoshi94
                      Mines about an inch bigger than Kyles. I need to get one of those
                      Originally posted by ryanwarby01
                      Put it this way, if you have a money tree a LT1 is a wood chipper!
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                      • YES!!! I have one on my passenger side tower that WILL NOT START. It's been out on two separate occasions and both times the same problem. I thought I was the only one. Mine was more of an alignment issue than a gap issue, but there was a bit of a gap too.

                        2 things to check that may help:

                        1.) Make sure the threaded insert thingy isn't spinning in the mount. I had to put vice grips on the outside of it to get it to tighten. Can't remember if this was the difficult one or not, but still something to check.
                        2.) Make sure the threads on the bolt and the insert aren't galled at all. Even though it didn't seem like it would help, I eventually got it together by using a different bolt. And yes, using bolts with actual heads on them is much nicer. I think what happened on mine was that because the alignment was ever so slightly off, it caused the bolt to try to go in at a slight angle and crossthread after a few tries so that even when I finally got the alignment close enough it still wanted to do funky things.

                        YMMV

                        Also, if the gap is your entire problem, maybe buy a slightly longer bolt? Also, if you haven't, try it without the other 3 bolts fully tightened.
                        Last edited by birdie2000; February 16th, 2013, 03:38 AM.

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                        • I think the gap started the problem but is not the only issue. i am making positive contact with both, so it should start... But instead it pushes the isolator down until the bolt suddenly pops back up in the tower. I think the same thing happened to me where i first tried it slightly cross threaded because they werent lined up. I was using a cro-bar on the a-arm and reefing on it trying to start the bolt that way and now it still doesnt work. Seems to be lined up without using the cro bar now. The bolts got effed up but i mostly straightened them out by running them through the isolators in the old tower. I will have to check if the threaded piece is spinning, thats something i hadnt thought of.
                          -Joel
                          1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
                          1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


                          WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

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                          • Originally posted by Fox Slaughter View Post
                            More beer is the SOLUTION

                            It will go from "What the heck it doesn't fit" to "Hey looks good to me".
                            Fixed. Lol, i honestly thought about just using undersized bolts but i want to do it right.
                            -Joel
                            1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
                            1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


                            WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

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                            • loosen the hex bolts on the left so that they are barley holding, that gives the other bolts some wiggle room, thats what we had to do on my car and scotts.
                              1998 Chevrolet Camaro Z28 - 6 Speed

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                              • Originally posted by nascarnate326 View Post
                                loosen the hex bolts on the left so that they are barley holding, that gives the other bolts some wiggle room, thats what we had to do on my car and scotts.
                                Tried that - thats when i was using a cro bar on the upper a arm to align it
                                -Joel
                                1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
                                1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


                                WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

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