Help! low oil pressure and Check Gauges Light

[tab1217]

I have a 94 Z28 LT1 that i just got 2 weeks ago. this morning when I ran to the store the oil pressure was around 2o psi cold. On my way home once the engine warmed up the oil pressure would drop to almost 0 and check gauges light came on, and the highest it would under acceleration was just under 20 psi! The oild was changed 2k ago by the previous owner and has 5w-30 in it. What is the first step I should take? Try 10w-30 oil? Ive read to hook up a manual gage but im not sure where to hook this up. It also seems a lot of people say to change the sending unit, again, no threads I have found say where it is on my car. Last resort is a oil pump and pickup? It seems like this will be a project, some people have said you need to remove engine mounts in order to get the oil pan to drop out completely to access and change the pump and pickup?

[Boost Addict]

First thing is try the mechanical gauge. You should be able to remove a plug on the oil filter housing and screw the line in there. If the gauge reads a completely different number than the stock one, change your sensor.

[nascarnate326]

First thing is try the mechanical gauge. You should be able to remove a plug on the oil filter housing and screw the line in there. If the gauge reads a completely different number than the stock one, change your sensor.

this and some 10-40 mobil 1.


how many miles?

[SoulTerror]

Mine does the same thing. Guy who put in my engine was suppose to check with the gauge, but I basically have nothing to do with that guy anymore.

[prorac1]

I would put in 10 w 40, minus the mobile 1. I wouldnt switch to a synthetic on a used motor. Like said, pick up a cheap mechanical oil pressure guage and check it out. Eric L

[sman]

x2, id stay with dino oil if thats what was in it and it has any kind of miles on it, everything ive ever switched to synthetic has leaked after an oil change or so of syn.

[SoulTerror]

I'm using straight 30W and still have the oil pressure issue.

[98blackbeauty]

Sounds like worn main bearings, if mech gauge reads the same. Don't beat on car or drive it hard until you get it resolved or you'll destroy your bearings and be in for major cost repair bill. If your going to drop pan to replace pump I would check main bearings while you have access.

[Kwazrollinz28]

I'm running a K&N filter with 20W 50 Valvoline full synthetic.

[tab1217]

this and some 10-40 mobil 1.


how many miles?

75,000 Now I have another potentially worse problem. I just got it back after a mechanic put a new opti, new water pump, new plugs, new wires and a new drive belt on. I drove it 25 miles up Van Dyke towards Imlay city so like 70 to 75 mph then 55 - 60 when eway ends. The temperature spiked and the oil pressure was going nuts. needle was moving up and down really weird, cut the engine off and coasted into a parking lot. Overheated like crazy, coolant boiling over the overflow jug and the non attention getting steam pouring out. waited a while added antifreeze, car started back up but was making a weird squeaking noise from somewhere back bt the firewall??? And now I'm concerned about the brand new opti due to the coolant blowing all over under the hood. The temp kept climbing right back up, cut it off and left it for the night. Went to the mechanic this morning ant told him I think the water pump he put on took a crap. Hes sending a flatbed out to get it now. If it is the water pump, he should be on the hook for any other damage that may have been done right?? I hate being a jerk to the guy, but if there is other major things wrong now shouldnt he be responsible?????

[steddy]

75,000 Now I have another potentially worse problem. I just got it back after a mechanic put a new opti, new water pump, new plugs, new wires and a new drive belt on. I drove it 25 miles up Van Dyke towards Imlay city so like 70 to 75 mph then 55 - 60 when eway ends. The temperature spiked and the oil pressure was going nuts. needle was moving up and down really weird, cut the engine off and coasted into a parking lot. Overheated like crazy, coolant boiling over the overflow jug and the non attention getting steam pouring out. waited a while added antifreeze, car started back up but was making a weird squeaking noise from somewhere back bt the firewall??? And now I'm concerned about the brand new opti due to the coolant blowing all over under the hood. The temp kept climbing right back up, cut it off and left it for the night. Went to the mechanic this morning ant told him I think the water pump he put on took a crap. Hes sending a flatbed out to get it now. If it is the water pump, he should be on the hook for any other damage that may have been done right?? I hate being a jerk to the guy, but if there is other major things wrong now shouldnt he be responsible?????

If this is due to the water pump being bad, yes. It should've been test driven and codes/problems resolved. When I first had my car, I had a miss on 2 cylinders, indicating one of the coils was bad. I went and got another, then another, then still another. Come to find out that the entire batch of coils at the place was bad.

[98blackbeauty]

Sounds like thermostate bad or stuck shut. Should have been changed with water pump!

[prorac1]

Wow, thats horrible news. If the mechanic is honest, he will cover it. If hes not quite honest, he will tell you that it was not a labor problem, it was a parts problem and that you have to contact the manufacture. I wouldnt think a mechanic would do that, but, stranger things have happened. Good luck, Eric L

[tab1217]

He just called and said the car has a Rod Knock now!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Anyone interested in buying a 94 Z28 LT1 with 75K miles, new opti, new water pump, new drive belt, with a rod knock??? I dont know what "God" or "Higher power" I angered but they are sure making me pay for whatever I did now.

[meissen]

Yikes! Sorry to hear your first experience with the car has been so poor.

Do you necessarily have to replace the block or can you just have it rebuilt?