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  • coil pack issue

    does anyone know a way to test the coil packs? i just tried to start the car after a head and cam swap and she started then died.started again and died.then nothing afterwards.checked for spark and the number 2 cylinder is weak as hell.thanks in advance
    shaun

  • #2
    dude that SUCKS. It was bad ass already, and I wanted to see it at the meet & greet

    2011 Mustang GT
    20" Satin Black AMRs with 305/35 & 275/35 MT Street Radials, Saleen Grille, CS Lower Valance, Roush Axleback, GT500 Spoiler, resonator delete

    In Progress: Brembo 6-piston brake upgrade


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    • #3
      Just swap it with the #4 coil and see if the spark is now stronger in #2 again and weak in #4 that should tell you right there.


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      • #4
        I just had a H/c car that wouldn't start or started and missed like crazy. Installed the coils off my car and no change. It was the tune

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        • #5
          thanks for the input.im pissed i had to miss the meet today but the car is drivin me nuts.rechecked for spark again and i am getting it.i gapped the plugs wrong.i had them set at 35 oposed to 60.still cant get her to run though.thought the timing was off so i retarded it 1 tooth.now it is dead on.but once again the car wont start without the help of the gas pedal.will stay running as long as i have my foot on the gas.im really hoping someone has the answer.the cam i have is the ms4.i went with comp cams double roller timing chain kit and i bought a set of ported heads.pushrods are the stock 7.4s with 1.7 rollers from harland sharp and patriot performance dual springs.could a tune really cause this much of an issue?i have efi live but not educated with the program yet.any thoughts are more than welcome.im losin my mind here.i just want to here my girl lopin damnit.lol.thanks again for the input.

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          • #6
            if they are tr55 or tr6 they should be at .035.
            How did you retard the timing? i would not recommend advancing or retarding that cam. did you check PTV clearance.
            The Ptv is really close as it is with that cam not to mention the ported heads that were most likely milled.
            Pull the pushrods and see if one is bent.
            Stock pushrods shouldn't be used with aftermarket springs but in this case if it did hit a valve the stick pushrods may have saved the head

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            • #7
              I'm not all that knowledgeable, but could it be your idler screw backed all the way out?

              2011 Mustang GT
              20" Satin Black AMRs with 305/35 & 275/35 MT Street Radials, Saleen Grille, CS Lower Valance, Roush Axleback, GT500 Spoiler, resonator delete

              In Progress: Brembo 6-piston brake upgrade


              Comment


              • #8
                the factory idle screw isn't adjustable. Sooner or later you will probably have to drill the throttle blade to get the Iac counts right.
                Its most likely either the tune or PTv issue

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                • #9
                  thanks for another option.i wil check the ptv clearance tomorrow.these are the same length pushrods i used with the stock cam and the same springs.but i was concerned with the pushrod length.as far as retarding the cam i did so by pulling off the cam sprocket and realigned the dots.it was off one tooth when i went back and rechecked it.im not sure as to wether or not the heads were milled but the guy i get them off of says that they werent.they are the 843 heads and came off of a 2000 corvette.i didnt bother to do anything with it today.it was my daughters birthday party and i needed a day to think as well.i did however data log what the car was doing for a duration of almost 3minutes.im really kinda thinkin it has to do with lack of fuel.but i dont know.just going through thoughts in my head.

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                  • #10
                    ok had to add this in as well since i just remembered it.someone had mentioned the possibility of the cam sensor being bad.is that a possibility? also i disconnected the tps and no change whatsoever.no code was thrown.although i do believe it would take longer than the 3 minutes she ran for the code to come up but i could be wrong.oh and one more thing the pushrods are aftermarket.stock length but have .080 thick walls.
                    Last edited by ultimatefirebird; June 1st, 2008, 09:37 PM.

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                    • #11
                      it will still run without a cam sensor.
                      it just takes longer for the car to sync causing a longer cranking
                      time.
                      I had never had any issues doing cam swaps until fryguys car. The dam thing would not run at all until it was tuned. trailered it to the tuner and within 5 minutes he had it running

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                      • #12
                        ok thanks for the help.much apreciated.im hopin its just the tune now.really dont wanna tear that motor apart again.but i will however check the ptv clearance tomorrow just to eliminate that possibility.btw i do have tr55s.so i will have to regap them as well again.i did have them gapped at 35 the first time i tried starting her and no go.but that was with the timing being off though as well.so who knows.

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                        • #13
                          this may sounds stupis but are the coil packs on the correct way? I put mine on the opposite sides once and the car ran on like 4 cylinders but ran horribly.
                          Doing less with more


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                          • #14
                            i do believe they are but wouldnt hurt to switch them to check.i really didnt think it mattered which side they were on.

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                            • #15
                              I have never had an issue with the coils being sided. We just throw them on

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