Welcome to the Michigan FBody Association website.
The Michigan FBody Association is a centralized website for FBody enthusiasts to discuss what's going on in the Michigan area. MiFbody.com was created to allow for an easy one-stop place to find out what's going on in Michigan as far as FBody events, to find out what clubs are available in your immediate area, and for an easy place to post classifieds for items you want to sell! Our goal was to create a more close-knit community of FBody enthusiasts in the state of Michigan, and to bring Camaro and Firebird enthusiasts alike together for some amazing FBody events!
The most important thing to know about the Michigan FBody Association is that we are NOT a club! The Michigan FBody Association is open to everyone, and is a community. Thus, we will have get togethers, casual cruises, events, and such like that, but this is not an exclusive club and it's 100% free to join this site! So what are you waiting for? Register now!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us!
I don't know, I think V8 and immediately to true duals. I know he's spent a lot of time and money getting it right and running. Down side, my true "muscling up" was up to 3rd gens. I don't even know if they make a dual outlet type of trans crossmember for the 4th. Well, that and I don't want to see him in trouble either. It was quite the pain going out cruising in the '79 and being followed every Friday and Saturday.
Can't wait to see it in person man. Lot of hard work really paid off. Had to be a good feeling to finally light that fuse. Nothing's cooler than the feel of a fresh, strong motor, ready for action.
Thank you guys! Drove it around the block yesterday with FreeScan running on it and it turns out the tachometer is not a flat X amount off - more of a percentage that changes dependent on how high it is. When it's at idle, the tach reads like 1000 but it's really idling around 700-900. What the tachometer reads as 3000 is really only about 1500 So it looks like when I'm driving ~45 mph it's at 1500.
Craig and I both confirmed on Saturday and I reaffirmed it on Sunday - the first shift to 2nd gear it really winds up but once it shifts then the rest of the shifting is OK. Our only issue left that I'd like to figure out before sending it to Steve in case something is wrong is that it doesn't downshift at lights.
Thank you guys! Drove it around the block yesterday with FreeScan running on it and it turns out the tachometer is not a flat X amount off - more of a percentage that changes dependent on how high it is. When it's at idle, the tach reads like 1000 but it's really idling around 700-900. What the tachometer reads as 3000 is really only about 1500 So it looks like when I'm driving ~45 mph it's at 1500.
Craig and I both confirmed on Saturday and I reaffirmed it on Sunday - the first shift to 2nd gear it really winds up but once it shifts then the rest of the shifting is OK. Our only issue left that I'd like to figure out before sending it to Steve in case something is wrong is that it doesn't downshift at lights.
the idle reading you describe is normal. but if your tach is reading DOUBLE what the actual RPM is, something is WAY wrong there. The stock LT1 tach is inaccurate but it definitely isnt that bad.
If i were you I would flash back to a stock tune modified for your injectors and see if the trans acts correctly.
I'm using a v6 gauge cluster that's why the tach is that far off. The v6 gauge clusters are known for being way off when switching to a v8. Have a 2000 gauge cluster that I bought on Friday from Trans Am Creations but I don't know if it will work or not till it gets here.
Honestly, folks, here's my thought. The 2.5" with a crossover won't stifle the exhuast as much as people think and on the street, they will be a little more "tame". Cops LOVE loud and fast looking (let's be honest, red alert says "kill", just sitting there), anyway, if you're running the cutouts, when you're ready to get crazy mean out there, you can open them and the gates of hell breathe.
When you're just driving to a meet, or just cruising, let it look evil, without the note that tells the red & blue to "please bust me, I'm not doing anything now, but if you take away a month's worth of gas now, you've stopped me".
When you're in a heat, let it be evil. Take it from someone who's donated WAY more than his share to municipalities in the past (hell, I probably paid for their new cruisers, but anyway...). Sorry for the confusion. Just throwing a thought to consider. I love the way the car turned out and don't want to see you get hassled everywhere you take it.
You make good sense, Steddy, Its not like he's out racing. He is cruising with an attitude!
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1998 Trans Am Convertible A4 - WS6 hood, WS6 air lid, WS6 rims, drilled/slotted rotors.
You make good sense, Steddy, Its not like he's out racing. He is cruising with an attitude!
while thats a good mentality to have, it is however no reason at all to keep the existing setup: I would have to question the logic of someone that invests money in headflow performance only to choke it back off further down the line with a restrictive exhaust. To put things in perspective, the STOCK restrictive exhaust is 2.75"
its fine for now but there are ways to let it breathe and keep it quiet at the same time
Oh exactly, that's why I was thinking duals with 2.5" all back. I didn't realize that the original single out was in place. I do have to say, however, for a single nostril......wow! I ran my '79 with 2.5" through dual flowmasters and a crossover with no probs. Not pushing it would get 12's..12.5s on hot days, with street tires (never did mount those slicks, damn). But yeah, just kinda looking out and again, with electric cutouts, the power will still be there with the flip of a switch. Anyway, subject well beaten on. I won't even start the debate on which gear cut is stronger. It's all good!
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