Lowered 4th Gens - Sway Bar End Links

[Atrus]

OK, here's your dumb question of the night....just looking to sense check this with you all...

I've had this "clunk" in the suspension ever since I lowered it last year. Front suspension clunks over larger bumps. Feels like it's right below my feet and it's tough to tell what side it's on.

Tonight, while poking around under the car for the millionth time trying to find the source of this noise, I noticed that on the outer ends of the sway bar, it appears the bar may be contacting some brackets welded to the unibody. These thick gauge brackets hold a round metal bar support brace.

My question is - I should have shorter-than-stock endlinks, being that I dropped the car a solid 1.5" or so, right? I am running OE length ones (O'Reilly house brand). I think it's throwing off the geometry of the sway bar, and when it twists enough, it contacts these thick solid steel brackets. I should probably cut a good 3/4"-1" out of the spacer to bring the end of the sway bar closer to the lower control arm, right?

Most likely a stupid question - I think I need to shorten them - but I want to ask before I yank it apart again and waste time when I find out that's not the issue.

[JoeliusZ28]

Having a hard time visualizing what youre talking about. I am lowered with an upgraded sway bar with stock length end-links, i dont remember anything being close to hitting in the front. Can you provide a picture? Other than clearance issues, I really dont think sway bar geometry matters much until it is several degrees off from the factory location.

[birdie2000]

Not only am I lowered as much as yours or more, I've actually lowered my sway bar by well over an inch with spacers. My sway bar geometry looks great and don't have issues like you describe. It couldn't hurt to try it though if you don't mind possibly having to buy new endlinks if you don't like it. Research proper sway bar endlink geometry and see if it looks off much.

[hoogiesngrinderz]

Mine is lowered as well, but I cannot visualize what the sway bar would hit.

Shorter links wouldn't hurt, but it shouldn't be that far off from OEM...maybe 10°? Post a pic if you can.


I have a serious clunk from my front sway bar on my SRT-4, can't figure it out for the life of me Not lowered, brand new everything (even control arms) and it still pops when it articulates hard. I'll be dropping the bar and checking for cracks soon.

[Atrus]

Interesting. I'll try to snag some pics. It looks like it's just barely enough that it's kissing the brackets i am talking about. I only get the clunk on larger or very sharp bumps, so I think if I had just a little more clearance, I'd have no issue. I'll probably remove the sway bar entirely and take it for a spin over a couple of bumps in my sub that cause the noise. At least then I'd know it is definitely the sway bar causing it. If that's the case, I'll try to shave a little off each spacer and see if that ends the issue.

I've been wanting to get an alignment as the car needs one desperately, but I've been hesitant to until this is corrected. I was praying it wasn't something in the shock assembly since I did a whole "franken-drop" by cutting springs, using aftermarket bump stops, and modifying the upper spring mount.

It really seems to be only when the suspension travel is pretty far upward. In fact, I was trying to bounce the front end to replicate the noise...tried on numerous occasions. I weigh 220, couldn't get it to make the noise. Last night, I got pissed off and stood on one foot on the radiator support and bounced up and down and that's when I heard it.

[Gregs_gsxr]

have you tried tightening the sway bar links ?

[Atrus]

have you tried tightening the sway bar links ?

Yeah, right now they are most definitely "over-torqued". I cranked down on them a good bit a while back to rule that out.

[1BADAIR]

Not sure what the links would hit. Spring perch? Make sure the spring perch isn't catching the lip of the k-member

[Atrus]

I'll have to take a better look at what exactly it is. I've tried looking online and can't seem to find a decent picture showing what it is that they are hitting. I'll have to snap one of my own. I am hoping I can make it out into the garage tonight.

[Atrus]

OK, this is what I am seeing. Tough to get a quick pic, but the sway bar IS hitting the K Member. I circled the area in red. I looked at the passenger side last night and it appeared it may have contacted. This pic is of the driver's side and the bar has definitely mushroomed some of the bracket metal out toward the wheel. It's very slight, but it's absolutely impacting there.

Sway Bar.jpg

Got a closer pic...
Sway Bar2.jpg

[sman]

Ah, you have a convertible. Non-vert cars do not have the little bracket/brace thing you are showing us there, IIRC there should also be a set of those near the front of the k-member.

[hoogiesngrinderz]

I'm almost positive that mine doesn't have that mount on the front....what is that bolt holding?

[Atrus]

Dah hah - that makes sense, me being a vert.

I'd have to get under there and look, but I believe there's a round rod that has flattened ends that's bolted to the K member, and then I believe either to the body or to the radiator support. Car's so damn low now it's tough to get under there to look.

Hopefully shortening up the sleeve to lower the bar will remedy the situation.

[sman]

You are correct. Round rod, flat ends. Both ends should bolt to the k member. They should be at 45* angles, I believe they are to help prevent twisting and flexing of the K in a car without as much support.

Not sure on that though, that was just always my guess.

[1BADAIR]

Grind that down with a carbide or you said you have different links? Cut the spacer tube if the bolts are threaded all the way