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steering wheel shakes at 70mph plus. bad vibration upon slow down

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  • #16
    Originally posted by kammi10 View Post
    smh... do you really think you can not balance tires and get them to not shake?
    Lol ... This^

    Come on man.
    2002 Z28 Camaro A4
    1993 Z28 Camaro M6- SOLD
    1999 Z28 Camaro M6- SOLD
    2008 Ford Fusion SE - DD
    -- MCALUS MOLDED PILLAR PODS, PM ME FOR MORE INFO--
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    • #17
      re

      Ive done it all before. No shakes wobbles. Nothing. Maybe I'm just
      Not as lucky as I used to be. I know the passenger front rotor is
      Warped. Spin the tire and it will catch alittle in one spot and be free the other.

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      • #18
        even a warpped rotor usually doesnt cause a vibration at speeds, unbalanced tires will do it all the time, unless you have bigger issues like steering componets wore out and need attention
        '91 Camaro Modded, LSx, House of Kolor Intense White, lowered, GS chrome 18" wheels, 14" Brembo CTS-V on all 4 corners, LS rear end, FP suspension components

        " When in doubt...throttle out ! "
        ENVYsion Entertainment Group

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        • #19
          Originally posted by 9302z28SS View Post
          Ive done it all before. No shakes wobbles. Nothing. Maybe I'm just
          Not as lucky as I used to be. I know the passenger front rotor is
          Warped. Spin the tire and it will catch alittle in one spot and be free the other.

          i have never seen a warped rotor cause a vibration UNTIL you hit the brakes..




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          • #20
            don't forget to look at the front lower a-arm bushings, mainly the back ones.

            Stuck caliper guide pins?

            And c'mon, tires should always get balanced. Just because you can't feel it doesn't mean it's ok. Even if it does balance, the rim should be checked for runout before mounting a tire. Bent rims will balance but cause vibration at higher speeds.

            1998 Camaro Z28 - Bright Red, 6.0 TR224, 4l60e, 3.42 Eaton TrueTrac
            1989 Camaro IROC-Z Convertible - 355 big tube TPI, WC T5, 3.42 Zexel Torsen, CTS-V/C4 brakes
            1955 Bel Air 2 Door Post - 357 TPI, Muncie M20, 4 wheel disc

            2006 Saab 9-7x 5.3i Daily Driver

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            • #21
              Originally posted by hoogiesngrinderz View Post
              don't forget to look at the front lower a-arm bushings, mainly the back ones.

              Stuck caliper guide pins?

              And c'mon, tires should always get balanced. Just because you can't feel it doesn't mean it's ok. Even if it does balance, the rim should be checked for runout before mounting a tire. Bent rims will balance but cause vibration at higher speeds.
              ^ yup

              Beyond a normal balance, you might look at having them run on a Hunter Road Force balancer. If its too high, they can spin the tire on the rim to try and help them. Also, assuming you are using OEM rims with a correct pilot hole... aftermarket rims can have an oversize hole, which could put the assm off center.

              Agree with above that you should balance whenever you switch tires... some cars are more senstive to vibration. Bad enough vibration can lead to abnormal tire wear.

              And no, LS1 rotors will not fit with LT1 calipers/knuckles. Rotors can have both lateral runout and thickness variation problems that will cause shaking upon braking... rotors are balanced during manufacturing and unless they have been turned, should be still balanced.
              Last edited by Fish-man; July 11th, 2013, 02:22 PM.

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              • #22
                Took it for a ride after my brake lines were fixed. And my brakes
                No longer pulsate when hiting them at 40 but I haven't gotten up
                To 70 yet. My brake pedal feels like its almost going to the floor
                Before its catching the rotor and slowing me down.

                The brake light in the dash isn't on. So the pressure in the lines is
                Good. But could I still have air on the lines?

                I blew the line that goes to the rubber line for the block
                In the rear end that feeds the calipers.

                Should I have bled the fronts also? I kept the brake fluid
                Topped off. Every time a cracked a bleeder open I checked
                And filled..

                The car does stop but gives me the feeling of shit it may not.

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                • #23
                  checked and filled it not the same as pumped and bled, bleed them.
                  Doing less with more


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                  • #24
                    I bled the rears. And the pedal went to the floor (front what the person pumping told me)

                    Should I bleed all 4 corners this time around?

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                    • #25
                      yea, flush all the old fluid out, get a powerbleeder, under a 100 bucks and are well worth every penny. start with the furtherest caliper from the master cylinder (pass side rear)
                      '91 Camaro Modded, LSx, House of Kolor Intense White, lowered, GS chrome 18" wheels, 14" Brembo CTS-V on all 4 corners, LS rear end, FP suspension components

                      " When in doubt...throttle out ! "
                      ENVYsion Entertainment Group

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