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Cut the 60ft time?!?!?!?!

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  • Cut the 60ft time?!?!?!?!

    Alright I am pulling horrible 60ft times. 2.4 to 2.5 range. Best I ever managed was a 2.3x.
    I had bald BFG street tires when cutting those times so I got newer BFG street tires with a lot of tread and still cut the same.
    I attributed it to when I had the tires mounted they pumped them to 34psi! Factory says 30psi. So when I came home and found that out I dropped them down to 30psi.

    So I have a few questions.

    1. What is a good tire pressure to run for good traction but good street ability? I don't have a trailer so I have to drive the car to the track.

    2. I have Poly Lower Control Arms and relocation brackets. The car is at stock height, with stock shocks and springs. When I put them on I just put them in the lowest hole. I just measured the angle on them and its 7*. I was reading you want about 2*, so I am going to move them till I get 2*. Is this a good spot degree for them?

    3. What would be a good pinion angle? I can't change it now because I have a stock torque arm but I would like to know for future reference. I am finding about -2* is a pretty good angle.

    The 60ft time is killing me. The best I've run is 13.87 at 103mph with a 2.3x 60'. I trap 102.x - 103.x every time but my run high 13s to low 14s.

    Anyways I've been busy with training so I haven't been on lately.
    Originally posted by Yoshi94
    Mines about an inch bigger than Kyles. I need to get one of those
    Originally posted by ryanwarby01
    Put it this way, if you have a money tree a LT1 is a wood chipper!
    sigpic

  • #2
    Alright well I just moved my LCA to the highest hole and I still have like 4*. So its a lot less than it was.

    Pinion angle to my best guess is 0*. Its hard to read it under there.

    If I get an adjustable torque arm and adjust the pinion angle -2* would it affect the LCA angle?
    Last edited by Fox Slaughter; June 23rd, 2012, 12:37 PM.
    Originally posted by Yoshi94
    Mines about an inch bigger than Kyles. I need to get one of those
    Originally posted by ryanwarby01
    Put it this way, if you have a money tree a LT1 is a wood chipper!
    sigpic

    Comment


    • #3
      it seems like it would adjust the angle because your adjusting the torque arm and all.

      Comment


      • #4
        Until you get better rear tires, you're just spinning your wheels. I know, its a really bad pun, but its the truth. No street tires will hook up these cars. Slap even a set of Nitto's (drag radials) and you're below 2.00
        When in doubt, Whip it out !

        Comment


        • #5
          Well I want to get some MTs at sometime but I need to do the rear end first.

          My plans are once I'm working again are to...

          Reroute the fuel and brake lines, tuck up my true duals, then rear end.
          Originally posted by Yoshi94
          Mines about an inch bigger than Kyles. I need to get one of those
          Originally posted by ryanwarby01
          Put it this way, if you have a money tree a LT1 is a wood chipper!
          sigpic

          Comment


          • #6
            Pinion angle has very little to do with traction on a torque arm car.

            Just get some nitto's or toyo drag radials - you'll be able knock an easy 2-3 tenths off the 60's - and put you in the low 13's.
            2000 Formula
            fixed slow junk

            Comment


            • #7
              I've cut 1.7s with my 555rs.
              That was stock height in the lowest hole with ~ 18psi in them.
              sigpic

              1996 Base Model
              +2 cylinder mod

              Comment


              • #8
                Honestly, practice. You're chasing suspension issues trying to get the car to hook, these cars bone stock with a good launch and street tires will do a 2.0 60ft. Are you bogging off the line or spinning? I like to launch right around 3k rpm, and then change how quickly I let the clutch out to get a good 60ft time. Using this method and an aggressive slip of the clutch I went 1.95 on bald nexen n3000s

                2011 Mustang GT
                20" Satin Black AMRs with 305/35 & 275/35 MT Street Radials, Saleen Grille, CS Lower Valance, Roush Axleback, GT500 Spoiler, resonator delete

                In Progress: Brembo 6-piston brake upgrade


                Comment


                • #9
                  It spins. I would rev to 2000 slowly let the clutch out under part throttle then when I put the throttle to the floor it would just spin. When you slip the clutch do you just rev up on the line, light turns green hammer down and let the clutch control your wheel spin?
                  Originally posted by Yoshi94
                  Mines about an inch bigger than Kyles. I need to get one of those
                  Originally posted by ryanwarby01
                  Put it this way, if you have a money tree a LT1 is a wood chipper!
                  sigpic

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Fox Slaughter View Post
                    Alright I am pulling horrible 60ft times. 2.4 to 2.5 range. Best I ever managed was a 2.3x.
                    I had bald BFG street tires when cutting those times so I got newer BFG street tires with a lot of tread and still cut the same.
                    I attributed it to when I had the tires mounted they pumped them to 34psi! Factory says 30psi. So when I came home and found that out I dropped them down to 30psi.

                    So I have a few questions.

                    1. What is a good tire pressure to run for good traction but good street ability? I don't have a trailer so I have to drive the car to the track.

                    2. I have Poly Lower Control Arms and relocation brackets. The car is at stock height, with stock shocks and springs. When I put them on I just put them in the lowest hole. I just measured the angle on them and its 7*. I was reading you want about 2*, so I am going to move them till I get 2*. Is this a good spot degree for them?

                    3. What would be a good pinion angle? I can't change it now because I have a stock torque arm but I would like to know for future reference. I am finding about -2* is a pretty good angle.

                    The 60ft time is killing me. The best I've run is 13.87 at 103mph with a 2.3x 60'. I trap 102.x - 103.x every time but my run high 13s to low 14s.

                    Anyways I've been busy with training so I haven't been on lately.
                    I just posted this exact same thing. I also have worn BFG's, getting a 2.1/2.2 60 ft. time, trapping at almost 110mph, and hitting 13.2-13.4's. Definitely need some sticky tires.. slicks or DR's. Better rear shocks should help.
                    I read an article on MM&FF that said a Drag radial should run between 14-16psi on 10sec. cars, and for slower cars(like ours) right around 18 psi is perfect. Most tracks(all that I have seen) have compressors on site, so put 25-30psi for normal driving, when you get to the track, bleed them to about 18psi, then pump them back up before you head home. But you could drive on 18psi for the ride home and be fine.. I've done it. Air pressure is a big deal, I've seen it cause a couple tenths in a 1/4 mile. Bottom line, 14-18psi is what you want. And get some real drag tires
                    Pacesetter LT's, Pacesetter ORY, full MSD ign., 2 step, rear LCA's, SFC's, B&M Ripper, poly motor mounts, Nitto NT05R's, WS6 wheels, KYB AGX adj. suspension, Eibach Sprotline springs, Trickflow elbow w/K&N, All HVAC deleted w/ delete panel, no AIR, No EGR

                    96 Z28 Camaro M6
                    2008 Silverado quad cab LTZ

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Lowering the air pressure isn't going to do much of anything anything in a street radial.

                      Get a real tire. A bias ply like a ET Street or even an ET Drag would work best for you.


                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Tires!!!!! Get a set of ET Streets and run between 15 and 18 psi. I can run a 1.60 60ft with a soft launch. And that is with the pinion angle in stock position
                        97 30th anv Z28 Lt1 Ported Heads and Intake, small Cam, LT's, SLP LM1 w/power flow conversion and cut out, Stalled A4, 3.73, 125 shot or so......... Custom EVI Tune and more to come...... SOLD
                        1971 Suburban work in progress
                        1969 Mach 1 In restoration process
                        Waiting to find the right Fbody

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I have ET streets and love them. They make a huge difference. I didn't change my tires until I had my rearend squared away either.
                          sigpic

                          355 LT1 M6. 232/240 LE cam. 21* Trick Flow heads. Fully ported intake. 58mm TPIS tb. 42# SVO Injectors. LS7 Lifters. Moser 9" TrueTrac w/ 4.22 gears. True Duals. UMI Suspension. LS1 brake swap. Dr. Phil tuned 400ish rwhp. Money Pit.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I have been 1.6x with my 10 bolt and plan on going faster.

                            I will agree an M6 is much harder on the rear than a stalled auto. If you plan on racing it you will need a rearend soon.


                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Hm sounds like the consensus is drag tires.
                              Originally posted by Yoshi94
                              Mines about an inch bigger than Kyles. I need to get one of those
                              Originally posted by ryanwarby01
                              Put it this way, if you have a money tree a LT1 is a wood chipper!
                              sigpic

                              Comment

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