Best torque arm for the money?

[FASHOOTER]

I have a full length UMI adjustable, I don't get any wheel hop. It just spins tires before it transfers any weight, brand new Hoosier drag radials made no difference. Gonna try taking off relocation brackets and moving torque arm down one set of holes from top. Might play with tire pressure also have always run 18 psi might try 20.

[1BADAIR]

suspension list?
manual? if it is drag radials dont work very well.
when my car was set up as "road race" style. i had to run the rears full loose to get it to hook. LOL i have a pic with the front end in the air with no shock extension.

[FASHOOTER]

Car is auto trans 3600 stall. UMI K member and front and rear control arms. UMI full length TA with relocation bracket. Strange single adjustable shock in rear and QA1 singles up front with 300# springs I believe. Also have lower control arm relocation brackets, car not lowered rear control arms are at 2 deg with the rear lower. Pinion angle 1.5. At my old power level I ran the rear shocks at 7 or 8 with 10 being the stiffest. New set up I need a huge burnout and rear shocks at 1 to hook.

I always just leave from idle foot braking seems to make it worse. Car is 3700#

[Nocooler]

Car is auto trans 3600 stall. UMI K member and front and rear control arms. UMI full length TA with relocation bracket. Strange single adjustable shock in rear and QA1 singles up front with 300# springs I believe. Also have lower control arm relocation brackets, car not lowered rear control arms are at 2 deg with the rear lower. Pinion angle 1.5. At my old power level I ran the rear shocks at 7 or 8 with 10 being the stiffest. New set up I need a huge burnout and rear shocks at 1 to hook.

I always just leave from idle foot braking seems to make it worse. Car is 3700#

Jim,

If it's spinning before it transfers - move the torque arm down. It'll ease the hit on the tires and allow the suspension to work. This is what I ended up having to do.

It's going to be a process of finding out what the car likes.

Jeremy

[Nocooler]

But.. 99% of yellow bullet says moving the front of the TA will not change anything unless you actually change the point/distance....

Not my experience but hey....

[1BADAIR]

Not my experience but hey....

lol i know. moving mine will cause spinning for 300 feet or yanking the tires to far for my comfort

[FASHOOTER]

I had front of TA in the stock location before I moved it up, guess I will bring it down between the 2 settings. Think I should ditch the relocation brackets? I have them in highest hole I have never tried them all the way down.

[1BADAIR]

try 1 thing at a time.
say, move TA. make 2 pass's. move LCA make 2 pass's.
2 degree should work. maybe add a tad more PA

[Nocooler]

I had front of TA in the stock location before I moved it up, guess I will bring it down between the 2 settings. Think I should ditch the relocation brackets? I have them in highest hole I have never tried them all the way down.

One thing at a time. The lowers are easy to do at the track when your not a dumb a$$ and try to do it without jacking up both sides of the car!

Edit - Larry beat me to it.

[FASHOOTER]

I will drop TA one notch.....and wait for cooler weather

[DETROITMUSCLE]

Larry and Jeremy are very knowledgable on this subject and have given good advice, I would keep the LCA relocation brackets as you may need them down the road anyways.

[Nocooler]

I will drop TA one notch.....and wait for cooler weather

Did it hook at the stock setting? Depending on how hard the convertor hits you might need to go lower than stock to make it work. It just depends what the car wants.

[Nocooler]

Larry and Jeremy are very knowledgable on this subject and have given good advice, I would keep the LCA relocation brackets as you may need them down the road anyways.

I know a little - no where near the experience Larry has.

[1BADAIR]

i know nothing

[jderry]

So would a UMI TA and UMI relocation bracket be a good choice?


IT looks like it should clear my duals, they're no where near my trans X member as is