Supposedly they'd crack/break the tailshaft in higher-powered cars. Could just be internet folklore, it's been a while since I've read up on it.
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Best torque arm for the money?
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Post Whore
- August 16th, 2007
- 2881
- Jim
- 2002 Camaro Z28, 1994 Firebird Formula
- Traverse City, MI
- Send PM
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Originally posted by JoeliusZ28 View PostWhat is the problem with the torque arm being on the tailshaft?
Spencer broke his on the dyno a couple years ago, not that I think its a common problem though. I like the reloation bracket also because they have multiple holes for adjustment of the torque arm up front as well as the rear adjustment this combined with the stress relieved from the tailshaft makes it a good piece to have IMO.Doing less with more

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I totally forgot about that issue with automatics. I was thinking from a performance/handling characteristic standpoint ... if there was any difference between the mount points.-Joel
1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd

WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop
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I run a spohn chassis mount adj TA. Absolutely love it! No issues on the street either.. But like Larry said, no good for auto-x.Originally posted by farmington View PostIf you're going full length, you should replace the front mount with the new trans crossmember adjustable mount. I have always heard that for drag racing that the shorter, frame mount is bettersigpic
U.S. Army 1983-2005
11.20@122.37 1.51 60'
Originally posted by WMCCjames
"Plans Subject to change upon Sobering up"
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There is a difference in mounting points. A relocation corssmember gives you up to 6 adjustment points on the front of the arm.Originally posted by JoeliusZ28 View PostI totally forgot about that issue with automatics. I was thinking from a performance/handling characteristic standpoint ... if there was any difference between the mount points.
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How does that change performance if the pinion angle is alreadt adjustable at the pig? Larger range of adjustment?-Joel
1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd

WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop
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Post Slut
- December 9th, 2011
- 5919
- Michael H
- 1989 Iroc-Z Convertible/1998 Z28
- Lowell, MI
- Meat Processor
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Instant center adjustmentOriginally posted by JoeliusZ28 View PostHow does that change performance if the pinion angle is alreadt adjustable at the pig? Larger range of adjustment?
1998 Camaro Z28 - Bright Red, 6.0 TR224, 4l60e, 3.42 Eaton TrueTrac
1989 Camaro IROC-Z Convertible - 355 big tube TPI, WC T5, 3.42 Zexel Torsen, CTS-V/C4 brakes
1955 Bel Air 2 Door Post - 357 TPI, Muncie M20, 4 wheel disc
2006 Saab 9-7x 5.3i Daily Driver
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^ What he said.Originally posted by hoogiesngrinderz View PostInstant center adjustment
Adjusting the instant center allows you to change how the car hits the tires, how long it holds the hit before it unloads, ect. Same goes with adjusting the LCA's up and down. Your just adjusting the instant center.
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Having you IC higher and further back will hit the tires hard but wont hold the hit long and taking the IC lower and further out will not hit the tires as hard but will keep them planted longer am I correct?Originally posted by 1BADAIR View Postkinda
And moving the LCA's up and down will effect the anti-squat as well. Is that what your referring to?
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yes about anti squat. Most will see more from the antisquat change than IC when moving the LCA.
I personally have seen moving the front of the arm help/hurt the launch. But.. 99% of yellow bullet says moving the front of the TA will not change anything unless you actually change the point/distance....
A decoupled TA is actually the best. It couples when accelerating . then decouples moving the instant center/antisquat to gain traction the opposite way that it does under accel. These are expensive though
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I can see what they are saying as moving the mount up or down will still be applying the force in the same spot if you don't move it forward or backwards as well.Originally posted by 1BADAIR View Post99% of yellow bullet says moving the front of the TA will not change anything unless you actually change the point/distance....
I haven't tested this tho but I know those guys have lots of experience.
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I cant seem to find the sweet spot to make my car hook at track. Tried moving TA all the way up in relocation bracket, didn't do anything. Thinking about taking off control arm relocation brackets, not lowered and they didn't help. Only way car will hook is to run rear shocks as soft as they will go?sigpicJust a slow 400 plus RWHP LT1.....428/370 NA
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My car never hooked and had terrible wheel hop until I went from a full length TA to a chassis mount. I run my rear shocks hard and front soft. What kind of TA you run Jim?Originally posted by FASHOOTER View PostI cant seem to find the sweet spot to make my car hook at track. Tried moving TA all the way up in relocation bracket, didn't do anything. Thinking about taking off control arm relocation brackets, not lowered and they didn't help. Only way car will hook is to run rear shocks as soft as they will go?sigpic
U.S. Army 1983-2005
11.20@122.37 1.51 60'
Originally posted by WMCCjames
"Plans Subject to change upon Sobering up"
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