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Strut/shock tower bearings

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  • #16
    Ok, this is such a simple replacement.
    Assuming you have the basic tools.
    You will need a jack, and a jack stand.
    Jack up the car so that the front tires are off the ground, but jack stands under unibody “frame” points. Once the front times are off the ground and the car is supported by jack stands, more the jack to the control arm of the side you will be working on and jack up the jack until it meets up with the control arm. Basically are you making sure that when you take the bolts out, the strut won’t fall.

    Mark the strut brace position.
    Then remove the center nut that is under that plastic cap.
    Once that is out, remove the 3 bolts around the brace.
    Then you should be able to just pull it out.
    Assuming you put the jack and jack stands in correctly, nothing should move too much.

    Then just replace the brace (which contains the bearing) with the new one.
    Put the 3 nuts on, but just finger tight at first.
    Align them to the original position that you marked, and then tighten them down.
    Then put the center nut back on, tighten that down.
    Then put the plastic cap back on.

    Assuming you have all the right size wrenches, a flathead screwdriver, a jack and jack stands, and assuming that nothing is rusted on too badly, it should only take you 2 hours max to do.

    Good luck to you, let us know how it goes.
    Currently Owned F-Bodies

    1994 Firebird 3.4L V6 SPI, T5, Black with T-Tops and Leather Interior (Daily Driver)
    1985 Trans-Am 383 Stroker Carb., Black with T-Tops (Hobby Car)
    1986 Trans-Am 5.0L TPI, Blue with T-Tops. (Project Car)

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    • #17
      Sounds pretty easy, still waiting for the damn parts to come in. Ordered them on like the 27th or something like that. Suppose to be in by the 15th, then I just have to wait for a day when the weather is gonna cooperate.

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      • #18
        Parts finally came in today. Directions say:
        1. Raise and support the vehicle safely. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
        2. Remove the brake hose bracket from strut assembly.
        3. Remove the strut to knuckle bolts, washer, and nuts.
        4. Remove the nut from the upper end of the strut.
        5. Remove the strut and shield.
        6. Remove the three strut mount nuts and discard the mount.


        So should I do what they say, or do what Eric said. Eric's way seems alot better and something I can handle since the way the part says involves the brakes and I know nothing about brakes.

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        • #19
          Should I replace the struts them selves as well? If so should I replace both the front and rear's? or would just fronts be ok? Another ? would these 1's be all right http://www.partsamerica.com/productd...ype=49&PTSet=A

          or should I just get http://www.partsamerica.com/productd...ype=49&PTSet=A

          Thanks in advance.

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          • #20
            bump

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            • #21
              I just went to advance auto to get my struts and my rear shocks.
              Do they need to be changed?
              sigpic

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              • #22
                I don't know if they do or not. 1 guy told me it would be a good idea to replace them if I'm doing the bearings. I don't know how to tell if there bad or not. Plus the link I posted is who Advance Auto order's thru. I was just wondering if I should just get the cheaper 1's or would the 1's for more money be worth it.

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