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'00 Convertible M6 SS #1414

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  • Atrus
    replied
    I've got to take some pics and get updates written, but this winter/spring I managed to get the LS6 intake on and redid the PCV system with rubber hose as well as added a catch can.

    Additionally, I swapped out the JVC headunit that I had for an Android double din. It's got it's little quirks, but I really do like it - has a ton of functionality. Will add in pics and details of that too. Had to further modify the DD-modified stock bezel a little to get it to fit, and repainted it with SEM Landau black.

    I also did go with the Hooker Blackheart True Duals setup. It's all stainless and consists of 1-7/8" primaries on midlength headers, and 2.5" true duals out the back with an X-pipe. Ground clearance is excellent from the pics I have seen, and the sound quality seems to be great without being too loud. From looking over the materials and craftsmanship, I am pleased thus far. Everything looks very well made. The headers were on backorder and kept getting pushed back, but they arrived last week after all the delays.

    I managed to get the manifolds unbolted yesterday without issue - everything came apart easily. Now, I have to get the car up on jackstands and get everything removed. Will post up pics as I get into the real meat of it. I'm pumped to get this on and get a tune!

    Last update is that the rear end is whining quite a bit. Seems like it happens at 35 mph, and then again between 70 and 80. Noise mostly disappears in between those speeds. Makes no difference if I am on the gas or not, no matter what gear I am in - seems totally speed dependent. I am assuming that means it's a pinion or carrier bearing.
    Last edited by Atrus; July 25th, 2016, 08:32 AM.

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  • farmington
    replied
    1 I'm running a 224r. nice street cam, 112 cl so it has some chop, very noticeable power gain
    2 when I bought my stuff from Texas speed they told me that the 7.400 pushrods would work and they did. It depends on the base circle of the cam if its the same as a factory cam. a cam with "softer" lobes will be less likely to have the sewing machine sound.
    3 use the PAC or Compcams 918 beehives. you won't need a double.
    4 go with a cam ground on 112 center to hear the chop
    5 ls6 pump is fine, that's what I used. My pressure went up about 5psi across the board. LS2 chain and reuse your sprockets. you will need a cam change gasket set and a new harmonic balancer bolt. might need new valve cover gaskets.

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  • Lucky SOB
    replied
    I'd call Martin at Tick to get his opinion. I'm running a 225/228 .61x"/.59x" 112 LSA cam from them with ported 799s and an LS6 intake through a T56. It drives like stock which is what I wanted. Zero surge with it, even before I had Phil tune it. Ended up at 380hp / 378 ft lbs.

    It's worth a free phone call.

    If I had to do it again, I would have gone slightly bigger. Maybe the 231/235 cam that they have.

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  • birdie2000
    replied
    I'm new to the LSx game so take my advice with a grain of salt, but I'd check out the AI high mileage grinds for the type of project I've heard you describe your car as. AI has a really good reputation for reliability in the LTx world.

    http://www.advancedinduction.com/LSX/AiLSxCamsHR.php

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  • Atrus
    replied
    So, thinking ahead guys...cams...I had a few questions. Plan is to have the LS6 Intake, most likely the Hooker Midlength Headers/TD setup, and get an appropriate tune. Again, summer cruiser, no track.

    1) I am leaning towards the EPS camshafts...not sure if it's marketing hype, but the (allegedly) more tame lobe design appeals to me. I was thinking the 222/226 would be a good choice - opinions? Would it be worth it to contact them and pay the fee ($25 IIRC?) to have them spec out a cam for my usage and mods?
    2) I'll be running stock heads. Any reason I can't just go with an off-the-shelf pushrod length, or would it truly be beneficial to measure first? My understanding is a contributor to the sewing machine noise may be pushrods that are kind of pushing to the outside of the "acceptable" length range.
    3) Springs - recommendations? I don't want to be swapping them out frequently. Would dual springs be better, or are the benefits negligible as I am certainly not running anything radical?
    4) LSA - yeah, I partially want this to hear that great chop as well. Like I said, though, car is a cruiser. What would a good choice be for driveability and being a stoplight jockey/cruiser?
    5) What are all the ancillary items I will need? I am guessing I should replace the oil pump - I can do an LS6 unit...should I get a ported unit? Timing set - are they problematic, should I upgrade gears and chain or just put a new chain on? What else, outside of Cam/Pushrods/Springs will I be needing?

    Any other words of wisdom or experiences you'd want to share?

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  • farmington
    replied
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/131562598287...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

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  • farmington
    replied
    I have the employee number if you need it.

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  • Atrus
    replied
    Thanks - I agree, I don't think rasp will be an issue with the Hooker setup. That's what TD's are all about, right?

    Thanks for the head's up on the LS6 valley. I really debated it, and think I am going to stick with the LS1 PVC setup with a few modifications....I picked up a stainless steel "y" and will be replacing the OE hose with 3/8" fuel line. I picked up a catch can that I'll also be running - it's a cheap ebay can, but the can itself is decent. The issue is it has no baffling, which I am adding in. I think with those two I should be OK - I didn't seem to have a TON of oil in my intake considering it's got 70k on the clock. Seems the LS6 cover has had mixed results.

    Well...now I am thinking about it more again...I may as well give a call to see if I can get one super cheap with my employee discount.

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  • farmington
    replied
    The cats will kill the raspy sounding exhaust. If I had to do it over I would use cats. With the hooker true dual system I don't think cats would be needed sound wise.
    Btw I saw the ls6 valley on eBay for $89 shipped.

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  • pferris
    replied
    Originally posted by Atrus View Post
    So, what are your opinions on running cats vs no cats? My biggest thing is I don't want to get out of the car and smell like exhaust. I see varying opinions on Tech about it...I did have a 5.0L Bronco that had gutted cats, and while it had the catless smell, I don't remember it ever smelling in the cabin, nor do I remember ever smelling like exhaust.

    I will be running a full exhaust out the back of the car - no dumps underneath it. I am considering the Hooker Blackheart TD system - it's 1-7/8" midlength headers mated to a 2.5" TD system - no cats. The other option is to pick up their TD catback system and mate it to some Speed Engineering LT's with cats. It looks to be fairly easily doable. The cost would be very similar - the tradeoff is a catted system with the LTs but less ground clearance (and more work to install), or the increased ground clearance with the Blackheart system but not cats.

    I realize the LT's will most likely give a little more power over the midlengths. I don't think it'll impact my car too much - tell me if you disagree. Plans are mild - LS6 intake, exhaust, and potentially a small cam like an EPS 222/226. The name of the game is keeping it reliable and civil to drive. It's a cruiser that I like to hammer on time to time. No track due to being a 'vert and my refusal to add a roll cage.

    What does MiFbody say about the two options?

    I am not running cats, but that's because I don't care about practicality, noise complaints, exhaust smell, and I am cheap. It sounds like your goals align more with running cats.

    If it was me, I would go with speed engineering 1 7/8" LT's. I just put them on my car, and outside of terrible clamps, they seem to be really nice, especially when you factor in the price point. I would also go with the cats, and the TD catback.

    I'm betting adding cats to the hooker system would not be difficult, would certainly cut rasp and noise back a little, but would still be loud enough and sound amazing.

    I don't think you would loose much ground clearance with the LT and cats, but I honestly have not looked at putting cats on my car. Clearance with my old ebay 1 5/8" setup was never a problem, but these 1 7/8" do hang marginally lower. I still don't think it will be an issue.

    ultimately I think you would want cats, and LT I believe are worth it.

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  • Atrus
    replied
    So, what are your opinions on running cats vs no cats? My biggest thing is I don't want to get out of the car and smell like exhaust. I see varying opinions on Tech about it...I did have a 5.0L Bronco that had gutted cats, and while it had the catless smell, I don't remember it ever smelling in the cabin, nor do I remember ever smelling like exhaust.

    I will be running a full exhaust out the back of the car - no dumps underneath it. I am considering the Hooker Blackheart TD system - it's 1-7/8" midlength headers mated to a 2.5" TD system - no cats. The other option is to pick up their TD catback system and mate it to some Speed Engineering LT's with cats. It looks to be fairly easily doable. The cost would be very similar - the tradeoff is a catted system with the LTs but less ground clearance (and more work to install), or the increased ground clearance with the Blackheart system but not cats.

    I realize the LT's will most likely give a little more power over the midlengths. I don't think it'll impact my car too much - tell me if you disagree. Plans are mild - LS6 intake, exhaust, and potentially a small cam like an EPS 222/226. The name of the game is keeping it reliable and civil to drive. It's a cruiser that I like to hammer on time to time. No track due to being a 'vert and my refusal to add a roll cage.

    What does MiFbody say about the two options?

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  • farmington
    replied
    With the exhaust and intake change you should at least get a mail order tune.

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  • Schuby87
    replied
    Brian Tooley had the best price around a few months ago, $100 shipped for the valley cover, valve cover plug, and line to intake. You can come watch me do it in a month or so.

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  • Atrus
    replied
    I've thought about it. I am a little hesitant because (1) It's another $100 investment, (2), I have to cut into the block, and (3) I was under the impression I couldn't run the LS1 coolant crossover. I looked into it more, and it appears I may be able to run the crossover with the valley cover.

    I'll check at work and see what my pricing would be on the LS6 valley cover.

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  • Schuby87
    replied
    Have you thought about doing the LS6 PCV conversion while you have the intake and knock sensors off? It will work better than band aiding the already bad LS1 system.

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