'00 Convertible M6 SS #1414

[farmington]

I just saw the problem. It said 853 on the head not 243. your car did this to try to get you to swap the heads. You should always listen to your car.

[DynoDave]

Wow, that's a beefy piece of steel. Ought to get the job done.

[Atrus]

Update - so, the rear passenger bolt broke on mine. I have the header on the driver's side installed. The Dorman clamp linked below arrived today.


First off - this is a pretty massive and beefy cast piece. I wasn't expecting it to be this robust. I'm impressed.


So, I threw it on the driver's side front of the head as a test fit, since that'd be a mirror image of the passenger rear. Luckily, it fits like a glove - clears everything including the header flange with little room to spare. I am very pleased with how easily it went on and think it'll do the job well.


Only time will tell - I'll get the passenger header on this week and clamp it down.


https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-917-14.../dp/B00OZVPC2G

[Atrus]

Hmmm. broken off stud in head..... need to pull head..... great time to put on those CNC ported heads...... and a cam at the same time...... LOL

And you begin your trip down the rabbit hole.

Which isn't always a bad thing...

LMAO, believe me, my first thought was "Well, if i have to pull the heads, it's time for some LS6 heads and a cam", but then quickly came back down to reality that $2k in additional upgrades really isn't in the budget this year. Between the intake, PCV system rebuild, headunit, and exhaust, I'm done for 2016.

[MP81]

Hmmm. broken off stud in head..... need to pull head..... great time to put on those CNC ported heads...... and a cam at the same time...... LOL

And you begin your trip down the rabbit hole.

Which isn't always a bad thing...

[farmington]

Hmmm. broken off stud in head..... need to pull head..... great time to put on those CNC ported heads...... and a cam at the same time...... LOL

[Atrus]

There's always gotta be that one major hold up to impede progress.

Like when I was changing the downpipe to manifold gasket on the Cav - should've taken 10 minutes, instead, took all day because one of the bolts snapped off in the manifold, so I had to take the manifold off, drill out the bolt, retap the hole, reinstall the manifold, and [i]then[i] install the new downpipe gasket.

It very well could just be something with steel bolts and aluminum heads - there's a corrosive action there between the two (bare) metals, so that'll do it sometimes.

Yup, galvanic corrosion is a *****.

It's cool - it's been a PITA, but I feel relived that I have a solution in mind that should work. I really didn't want to pull the head off, and my semi-OCD nature really wanted the bolt out to do it "right"....but eff it. If this clamp works, I'll put it on and never think about it again.

[MP81]

There's always gotta be that one major hold up to impede progress.

Like when I was changing the downpipe to manifold gasket on the Cav - should've taken 10 minutes, instead, took all day because one of the bolts snapped off in the manifold, so I had to take the manifold off, drill out the bolt, retap the hole, reinstall the manifold, and [i]then[i] install the new downpipe gasket.

It very well could just be something with steel bolts and aluminum heads - there's a corrosive action there between the two (bare) metals, so that'll do it sometimes.

[Atrus]

Thanks, Don - definitely will have the suspension loaded properly.

So, an update on the broken bolt. I am throwing in the towel. I can't make any progress on drilling it...I had thought about trying to fab up an exhaust clamp that would use two other threaded holes in the head to hold down the end of the manifold - it's the reason for my post in The Pub asking if anyone had a spare head I could borrow to take measurements and mock something up. While searching online, I think I found a solution made by Dorman. I ordered this through Amazon for $28 shipped. Check out Dorman 917-142 Exhaust Manifold to Cylinder Head Repair Clamp. I'll update once it arrives and I get it on.

So, I didn't have much chance to wrench on the car this weekend. I did manage to pop the driver's side header on yesterday. I used copper anti-sieze on the bolts. I used the grade 8.8 that Hooker sent with the headers (stock are 10.9). I fear I may have overtorqued them though. I plan on loosening them all up, pulling the couple I may have overtorqued, and look to see if there's any sign of stretching on the threads. I really don't have to have any more bolts snap off in the cylinder heads! I do miss working at the cold heading supplier that I used to...I used to be able to just walk out to the parts bins and pick up nice hex flanged automotive bolts for free.

Anyway, I'll work on picking away at it over the next few days. Ultimately, the headers slide in easily. This really would have been a non-event installation if it weren't for that damn snapped bolt. Seems like a common issue on the LS engines - lots of reports of this happening on the trucks. Seems the bolts snap the heads off without anyone even touching them in many cases.

[farmington]

If u remove the SFC's, remember you need to have the weight on the wheels (down on the ground or on blocks) when you tighten them back up.
When drilling into steel with a small drill u need lots of rpms. Maybe also use a piece of wood as a lever to put added pressure on the drill.

[MP81]

Nothing like a little extra work to add to the fun.

Oh wait, that's not fun, nevermind.

[Atrus]

So, I got all the OE exhaust components off the car. Unfortunately, I broke the rearmost manifold bolt on the passenger side. I had sprayed it a few times with PB Blaster. It's broken flush with the head. I got a 90* drill adapter and some left hand drill bits and spent some time trying to drill it yesterday to no avail - I've barely made a dent in the bolt.

I was using a small (3/16" IIRC) left hand bit, and it finally caught in the bolt and snapped. I am thinking as a last ditch effort, I am going to use a large LH bit, and will heat the area up with a propane torch....I'll hit it hard with the bit and hope it bites and gets the bolt to back out at least a few threads so I can get some pliers/vice grips on it. Once that's out, I should be golden with moving forward on the install. If I can't get it out, I have another idea to try. I really don't want to pull the head off, nor do I want any exhaust leaks.


I will say that thus far, these midlength headers slip right up into place with no drama. I think each side took me two attempts to get the approach correct and then they just slipped right in. No removing motor mounts, oil filters, starters...anything.

I also noticed that I need to touch up my SFC's as I have scraped them a few times....and while looking at them, I noticed the paint near the driver's side front SFC mount was kind of gooey and could be peeled off like rubber....realized it must be from when I bled the clutch in 2013, and I got brake fluid on the paint. I can see shiny metal now, so while it's up on stands I will remove both SFC's and throw some paint on them, and clean/paint that area on the frame to keep it from corroding.

Lastly, I do think the pinion seal is weeping as the axle looks wet. No drips. While poking around under the car (I am not under it often as it's so low and such a PITA to lift on jack stands), it also made me really start thinking about the TA mount. I know I am not putting down a lot of power, but I am thinking it could be good insurance to remove that thing from the trans mount. Last thing I want to do is crack the trans casing. Seems like good insurance.

[Atrus]

noise could be due to worn trans mount or torque arm mount due to pinion angle change. when I put my aftermarket torque arm on I got a new howl from the rear end turned out to be pinion angle was way off

Good point, thanks for mentioning! I lowered the car fairly significantly, so maybe it is pinion angle. I will definitely check into that!

Lets see some pics of that exhaust! to be honest i wouldnt worry about the rear end whine unless it gets worse. Mine has had a slight wine for years im still beating the snot out of it.

That's good to hear. It is pretty annoying though, when I have the top up and passengers in the car. It'd be great to know it's nothing that'll cause a problem, but it's loud enough to be very irritating.

[JoeliusZ28]

Lets see some pics of that exhaust! to be honest i wouldnt worry about the rear end whine unless it gets worse. Mine has had a slight wine for years im still beating the snot out of it.

[farmington]

noise could be due to worn trans mount or torque arm mount due to pinion angle change. when I put my aftermarket torque arm on I got a new howl from the rear end turned out to be pinion angle was way off