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  • ^^Agreed. That six speed makes it worth a bit more, and MUCH easier to sell.

    As far as the shifter Nick, I wouldn't go with a pro5.0. They makes shifting very notchy, and almost more of a chore IMO. I like a shifter that feels like a knife through butter, but that isn't going to happen with the t56. Least notchy feeling shifters are stock Hurst, Hurst Billet Plus and MGW. Some of the "sloppyness" that you are feeling probably comes from the stock shifter as well. Get a short throw that is a solid mount with no rubber on it and that will help.

    2011 Mustang GT
    20" Satin Black AMRs with 305/35 & 275/35 MT Street Radials, Saleen Grille, CS Lower Valance, Roush Axleback, GT500 Spoiler, resonator delete

    In Progress: Brembo 6-piston brake upgrade


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    • Having used both my opinion is:

      Pro 5.0 if youre using a pistol grip
      Stock hurst if youre using a knob
      -Joel
      1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
      1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


      WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

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      • Originally posted by JoeliusZ28 View Post
        Having used both my opinion is:

        Pro 5.0 if youre using a pistol grip
        Stock hurst if youre using a knob
        I was going to use a pistol grip I picked up a couple years ago, but it came up missing last summer, I have no idea where it went. Frickin' $45 Hurst machined aluminum pistol grip. I'll probably wind up going with a plain old ball-style shifter, I like the Hurst shift knobs, but I want one in black instead of white.

        That's a ways down the road though, I'm not going to be able to afford a new shifter until I sell my Formula, which isn't going to happen until I swap the parts over, which I'm not starting until the temps start going back up.
        Nick H.
        Current MIFC Vice President

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        • DAMN tires are expensive! I was looking at some 295/35ZR18's for the back (since I can't afford 315's), and it's gonna run me more than $400 for the rear tires alone! Fronts are going to be close to $400 more! I think I may be looking into getting a new set of rims. . .
          Nick H.
          Current MIFC Vice President

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          • Originally posted by 93formulalt1 View Post
            DAMN tires are expensive! I was looking at some 295/35ZR18's for the back (since I can't afford 315's), and it's gonna run me more than $400 for the rear tires alone! Fronts are going to be close to $400 more! I think I may be looking into getting a new set of rims. . .
            yeah lol thats why i went with kuhmos all the way around. was the best i could afford
            wishing i could drive like joe and the atm squad

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            • Originally posted by MunsterZ28 View Post
              yeah lol thats why i went with kuhmos all the way around. was the best i could afford
              Hey, Kumho makes a good tire. . . I'm actually looking at Kumhos right now, but I may wait until I sell the Formula and buy the BFG KDW 2's that I want. Just sucks that they don't last very long. I put new Falken's on my old rims in '06, they need replaced already. I'm leaning towards Kumho's myself, but if I find a deal on something a little more aggressive, I'll probably jump on them after I sell the Firebird.
              Nick H.
              Current MIFC Vice President

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              • Originally posted by 93formulalt1 View Post
                DAMN tires are expensive! I was looking at some 295/35ZR18's for the back (since I can't afford 315's), and it's gonna run me more than $400 for the rear tires alone! Fronts are going to be close to $400 more! I think I may be looking into getting a new set of rims. . .
                Really thats not that bad for low profile Z-rated tires. You had more than that in your last set.

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                • Originally posted by phoenix_rising View Post
                  Really thats not that bad for low profile Z-rated tires. You had more than that in your last set.
                  No, the last set was $825. These are wider tires, and I'm looking at at least $850 + mounting/balancing for them. The last set included everything, these prices are online, I'd still have to go pay the $10/wheel to have them mounted and balanced.
                  Nick H.
                  Current MIFC Vice President

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                  • Nick I don't know if you are interested, but you might want to check with this guy. I think you can get some Toyo r888s, 265/35-18s for the front and 305/35-18s for the rear for pretty cheap.

                    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1025134

                    2011 Mustang GT
                    20" Satin Black AMRs with 305/35 & 275/35 MT Street Radials, Saleen Grille, CS Lower Valance, Roush Axleback, GT500 Spoiler, resonator delete

                    In Progress: Brembo 6-piston brake upgrade


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                    • Originally posted by my95z28 View Post
                      Nick I don't know if you are interested, but you might want to check with this guy. I think you can get some Toyo r888s, 265/35-18s for the front and 305/35-18s for the rear for pretty cheap.

                      http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1025134
                      Thanks for that, I'll find out what he's got access to when I have the money. . . That could really save me some cash!
                      Nick H.
                      Current MIFC Vice President

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                      • Tire prices are rediculous for that size! Makes me feel a little better about settling with seventeens lol
                        -Derek-
                        1999 Pontiac Trans Am Ram Air- Lots of Boltons..

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                        • Originally posted by Derek View Post
                          Tire prices are rediculous for that size! Makes me feel a little better about settling with seventeens lol
                          I'm thinking of getting 17x10.5's for the rear to replace the 18's just for that reason.
                          Nick H.
                          Current MIFC Vice President

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                          • Alright, so I just shelled out another $80 I didn't have. . . lol I had to replace the left rear caliper and put new brake pads on. I'm still trying to figure out a way to pull the a-pillar without access to a frame machine, and I can't think of any way to do it. I have a porta-power hydraulic ram I could use to push the pillar out from the inside, but I don't know how well that's going to work. I was quoted $1k from a local shop to pull the a-pillar and straighten up all the gaps, as well as replacing the rocker panel while they're at it, but I would have to paint it when they are done. . . I'm really thinking about selling the firebird and using the money to get the body straightened out on the Z, but I need some better weather to get the parts swapped over.

                            Is anyone interested in the Firebird? It's got the LT1/700R4, and it would be completely stock with the exception of the lowering springs when I sell it. It needs the spark plug holes helicoiled, which I may or may not take care of before I sell, depending on if I can get to the holes while the headers are off. 169k miles, I have the original stereo for it, and I'd probably leave the aftermarket speakers in it, since the stockers were blown when I bought it. It has some rust on the quarter panels in front of the rear wheels, the clear coat is faded and peeling on the front fenders, and there is some rust on the front right shock tower (not structural, in front of the shock mounts, under the fuel lines). I can post pics if interested, the car will start, but I wouldn't trust it to make it very far unless the spark plug holes were helicoiled.

                            Also may be selling a set of Canton Racing fabbed aluminum valve covers for the LT1, not sure what to ask for them though.
                            Nick H.
                            Current MIFC Vice President

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                            • honestly would let a professional shop straighten it out. i dont think thats something to just wing esp considering its structure not just a floor pan.
                              wishing i could drive like joe and the atm squad

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                              • Originally posted by MunsterZ28 View Post
                                honestly would let a professional shop straighten it out. i dont think thats something to just wing esp considering its structure not just a floor pan.
                                That's what I'm leaning towards. Not to mention, if I'm paying a professional to do the job, I can be really picky about the results. Now I just need to come up with $1000 to get the driver's side taken care of. Until then, I think I'll start working on the passenger side quarter panel, I took the stud gun and slide hammer to my buddies garage, as soon as all this snow melts, I'll take it back over there and get to it.
                                Nick H.
                                Current MIFC Vice President

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