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The Michigan FBody Association is a centralized website for FBody enthusiasts to discuss what's going on in the Michigan area. MiFbody.com was created to allow for an easy one-stop place to find out what's going on in Michigan as far as FBody events, to find out what clubs are available in your immediate area, and for an easy place to post classifieds for items you want to sell! Our goal was to create a more close-knit community of FBody enthusiasts in the state of Michigan, and to bring Camaro and Firebird enthusiasts alike together for some amazing FBody events!
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In regards to the IAT - if you mount the IAT sensor out side of the engine bay instead of by the intake sensor, what good are you really doing then? I'm not sure how sensitive the temperatures are but there can be an easy 30-40 degree difference between ambient outside temperature and what the IAT measures. Seems like being 30-40 degrees off all the time wouldn't be that beneficial.
my guess would be they want to avoid heat soak as mentioned, as in the car seeing hotter air and pulling timing and losing power. The cooler air from outside the car will still compinsate some but not in a way that pulls all the power out of the motor.
Right but that's what I'm confused about - if the IAT is saying the temp is 50* and the air going into the engine is really closer to 80-90, wouldn't that just cause the car to be really rich since it's adding more fuel thinking it's colder, denser air going in? I guess at that point, though, being rich is better than timing pulled or running lean.
The IAT has nothing to do with fuel. It will just adjust the timing.
IAT's go up, timing goes down. Thats the power loss Jeff was talking about.
That can all be fixed in the tune.
But the point is to get it as close to the actual temperature as you can get it and let it do its job.
Throwing the sensor is the fender or whatever people do is an extremely halfass way of doing it and is asking for your shit to detonate and blow up on a hot day.
Mount it to the hood on a small motor triggered by a hood-closed switch. When open, it hides in a concealed compartment. Then when it is closed, it would be right in front of one of the runners
Still in mock up mode, but getting closer to finalizing things.
Drivers side....wanted them accessible but still somewhat hidden. Had to split them around the clutch master/slave line. Plug wires should easily meander around everything.
Passenger side....only place that made sense was to locate them by the ECM.
The hell with screws....magnets, ftw!! Will probably pick up another set to have one for each coil, but these damn things HOLD!
Problem with this location is that the plug wires would hit the ECM....sooooo, modify it so it sits as low in the pocket as possible.
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o·vr·kill [oh-ver-kil]1. an excess of what is required or suitable, as because of zeal or misjudgment.
What the IAT does is it calculates the temperature of the air. Hotter the air, less oxygen molecules in a given area, say 350 cubes. So less fuel is needed to get the 14.7:1 ratio. As temps go down, you need more fuel added to equal the 14.7:1 ratio. This is why a "Warm Air Intake" gets better fuel economy than a "Cold Air Intake". You can also put a resistor inline with your IAT to trick it into thinking the temps are warm so it doesn't dump so much fuel, leaning you out.
When you have a MAF the MAF uses the IAT. When you aren't running a MAF and are in Speed Density, thats why its called Speed Density. It uses the IAT to determine the temp of the air and uses a calculation in conjunction with the VE table to tell how much fuel to add. The formula is the same for any PCM.
The reason you say the timing goes down is because fueling goes down when its hot so you have hotter air coming in, with less fuel. Fuel cools down a combustion. So you have to cut timing because less cooling from fuel and air the chance of predetonating is higher.
Originally posted by Yoshi94
Mines about an inch bigger than Kyles. I need to get one of those
Originally posted by ryanwarby01
Put it this way, if you have a money tree a LT1 is a wood chipper!
And a preview of the ultra simple engine tie down. Used something very similar back in the GN racing days. Because the clearance between cowl and intake is so tight, this all but stops any engine movement.
Solid mounts.....
Drilled a hole in the rear alternator bracket and will be tied to the K-member. In there loose at the minute until the new K shows up....in the meantime....
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o·vr·kill [oh-ver-kil]1. an excess of what is required or suitable, as because of zeal or misjudgment.
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......hopefully the rest of the community will one day follow in your footsteps!
357ci LT1, cammed, stalled, and driven. 
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