Project Never Fast Enough

[Z28ISGR8]

It's good to see you were productive at "work" today Jeff.

[DETROITMUSCLE]

This was all done AFTER work Mike I started at 2:30 and then messed around wire wheeling the a/c and the bracket and then I had to wait for my Dad to help me get the motor on the k-member but in all I was very happy with what we got done. Campbell you'd better call me when you get home, were getting close and my pile of parts is running slim.

[Superman09]

Awesome Jeff! I had some catching up to do in the thread and you really have come far! Let me know if you need a hand!

[sman]

Looking good man! Glad to see I wasnt the only one who had problems getting the motor mounts to line up. Did you go poly too?

[DETROITMUSCLE]

Yeah they are poly, I wouldn't say it was all the mounts though as we were lifting the motor with out hi-lo and it may have not been 100% level.

[Z28ISGR8]

Jeff I've got Friday off, so if your not working I can come up there and lend a hand if need be. I know Campbell is home too this weekend so I was gonna see if I can get those gauges from him and we could swap A pillars and I could throw his gauges on my car Friday.

[Superman09]

I had the same problems with my motor mounts when switching to poly. Was a B*t*h to get bolts in!

[BP_Z28]

thats why you leave everything stock

pft yea right ha

[DETROITMUSCLE]

Had a little snag the other day when I realized that the harness I bought from Katech to extend the knock sensors and cam position sensor did not fit into the female end of the cam sensor that mounts in the timing cover. Apparently there is a small pigtail harness that comes out of the timing cover sensor that I didn't get with the shortlbock I bought. Luckily the dealership has it coming in today and its only $15.

Katech connector

Female end of sensor


On a brighter note I got a package yesterday. Its a Innovative Motorsports LC-1 wideband with a gauge and the included software. Just a little added insurance in case the car ever decideds to run lean again or I can log runs with it as well.

[Schuby87]

Good pick up on the LC-1. We will have to get together and wire them up. Have you read the directions in regards to grounding?

[DETROITMUSCLE]

Yeah I've had a little bit of free time this morning and I may go out and buy a bolt or use one I have lying around, tighten it down to the block and solder the grounds on like they say. I also read on thier site that some guys are using a block off the battery, my question is do you need to install the reset button and LED if you have the gauge or is that just for the upgraded one?

[Schuby87]

Yeah I've had a little bit of free time this morning and I may go out and buy a bolt or use one I have lying around, tighten it down to the block and solder the grounds on like they say. I also read on thier site that some guys are using a block off the battery, my question is do you need to install the reset button and LED if you have the gauge or is that just for the upgraded one?

Let me know what route you go down with the ground. I'm at a loss with that situation. From what I understand with the button and led, is that they are used for calibration and malfunction warning, so they need to be wired in even if you have the gauge.

[DETROITMUSCLE]

Well I can understand the reset button because the gauge doesn't have one but isn't the led just to show if the gauge is on and working or errors, which the gauge obviously could do on its own?

[Schuby87]

Well I can understand the reset button because the gauge doesn't have one but isn't the led just to show if the gauge is on and working or errors, which the gauge obviously could do on its own?

I think that when there is a malfunction the sequence that the led blinks will tell you whats wrong. Also, it blinks to tell you if the calibration was successful or not.

[DETROITMUSCLE]

I thought the gauge read an error code when there was one? Either way I might as well hook it up then, I already have a nice spot picked out for it anyways.