Meissen's LT1 Build-up Thread

[9T8W66]

Just because it says 6200-6400 doesn't mean I have to rev it that high. Not saying I'm not going to, but regardless if I tell Steve I don't want it revving too high oh well robbin a few HP's.

Absolutely

Chances are the power peak will be lower anyway making all the extra revs pointless.

[MP81]

Craig, love the avatar!

[JoeliusZ28]

that is one benefit of an automatic, you can set your points and not be tempted to rev higher. With a manual, its easier said than done to shift early.... when i watched my tach the first time with the new cam i was quite surprised how much higher the needle was going when i felt it was time for a shift.

[c0ncEpT]

Just because it says 6200-6400 doesn't mean I have to rev it that high. Not saying I'm not going to, but regardless if I tell Steve I don't want it revving too high oh well robbin a few HP's.

A lot of people say to get the car on the dyno and see where the power peaks and then set your shift point like 300 RPM after that. But I'm sure Steve will already have quite a bit of knowledge on the subject and do whats in your best interest.

[my95z28]

One thing though B, I'm not sure, but I think that the LT1 rod bolts might have to be pressed in/out. You might wanna do a little research on that. Them needing to be pressed in/out means that you are gonna need to pull the crank to get the pistons/ rods out.

[JoeliusZ28]

One thing though B, I'm not sure, but I think that the LT1 rod bolts might have to be pressed in/out. You might wanna do a little research on that. Them needing to be pressed in/out means that you are gonna need to pull the crank to get the pistons/ rods out.

If thats the case i wouldnt bother, i thought they could be changed without removing the crank or anything, but ill be honest ive not researched it.

[my95z28]

Basically you want your shift points to be at the point where when you shift, it will be at the exact same amount of power. Say top numbers are HP, bottom numbers are RPM.


270---280----290---300---310---300---290----280---270
5700--5800--5900--6000--6100--6200--6300--6400--6500


I know that these numbers are way off for the power B will be making, but just run with it. Say you have a 500rpm drop between gears, that means that you wanna shift at 6300 to get the most average power.

Avg. Horsepower when shifting at given points

290----296---298---296---290
6100--6200--6300--6400--6500


See my point? Or did I just confuse the shit outta everyone?

Edit: Ya I haven't researched it either. But B said that they were going to check the bearings out anyway, so if the crank was already out, I would do it.

[meissen]

We weren't going to take the crank out I don't think. Mr Plum Nuts himself can correct me if I'm wrong but as I understand it you unbolt something, put a piece of soft plastic in, then bolt some piece over it. Depending on how much the plastic gets compressed depends on if I need new bearings or not... or something like that

[meissen]

Just an update on what a great freaking deal this was:

Engine, Trans, Harness, and all the extra parts: -$1000
3.4L v6 Sale: +$300
4L60e v6 Trans Sale: +$300
Driver's side door: +$25
Rear Bumper: +$20
Tires and Rims: +$100
Rear Taillight Panel: -$15 (will be +$50 when Rolo pays me for the shipping...)
Driveshaft: +$20
-----------------------------------------
Grand Total: -$250 - once Rolo pays me for shipping that taillight panel to him it'll be -$185...

That's right... if I would've left the LT1 and trans stock and would've just installed it the way it was this swap would have cost me well under $500 (including misc parts)

[sman]

Some people just get lucky

[my95z28]

Um yeah that is one hellova deal. Sounds like you are talking about plastic feeler gauges maybe? I think that you are going to want to do the rod bolts B, with you having ported heads that things gonna wanna rev. Plus if you haven't taken apart a bottom end before I think that it gives you a much more complete idea on exactly what happens inside an engine. Obviously it is your decision whether to do it or not, but I just wanna be here so that in case a rod goes out the side of your block and you are starting over from point A sometime in the near future, this is my way of saying, told ya so J/p with ya Brian.

[meissen]

Yeah, I'll probably do it. I found out how much I'm getting back on income taxes and uh... yeah... feeling pretty good about the remaining stuff I wanted to do on the LT1.

[smokeyrider05]

id be careful pulling them main caps off just to check the bearings. if you put it back on just a little off from were it was and youll spin a bearing. if you take it off id replace the bearings for sure, if you dont want to replace them just leave them be, just my .02

[meissen]

cool thanks for the advice. the bearings aren't that expensive to replace are they?

[PoorMan]

My 2 cents. If i was thinking about replacing rod bearings, I would just take the shortblock for a basic rebuild. Meaning; clean, honed, new rings, cam bearings, rod bearings, and main bearings. Shouldn't be more than a few hundred if you take it in torn down. Then you have basically have a new motor that is reassemblied with the correct tolerances. Other wise I wouldn't mess with the short block at all.

Project is looking good.
BTW, their is a guy at cz28 selling GM crate LT1 short blocks for 1K with shipping included. The wheels on the bus go round and round.