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The Michigan FBody Association is a centralized website for FBody enthusiasts to discuss what's going on in the Michigan area. MiFbody.com was created to allow for an easy one-stop place to find out what's going on in Michigan as far as FBody events, to find out what clubs are available in your immediate area, and for an easy place to post classifieds for items you want to sell! Our goal was to create a more close-knit community of FBody enthusiasts in the state of Michigan, and to bring Camaro and Firebird enthusiasts alike together for some amazing FBody events!
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I just spent a good 40 minutes reading this thread and all I have to say is WOW and NICE! Keep up the work looks like and amazing project and some great deals you found!
I'll have to keep it in mind next time, but it's also fun spending time with my dad and working on the car. Good father son time. I really didn't think we were ever going to get that balancer off.
My dad and I would have killed each other
A heli Coil is going to be some work
IMO, DON'T drill it by hand, you won't get it straight and then you will have more problems.
An engine shop will probibly charge you about 30.00 to do it and it will be right but that means you would have to remove the crank.
You don't wnat to half ass anything on the motor!
Just my opinion!
The way I put the hub back on B is to go and buy the proper bolt from the hard ware store that is long enough to engage 1" of thread and then slowlly crank it on with a rachet using washers to make up the difference till you get it on far enough to install the original bolt.
VicePresident of West Michigan Firebird Club A.K.A The Maverick http://www.cardomain.com/ride/660128/1 93 TA Currently Under Construction AGAIN 2007 2500 Chevy Silverado Crew Cab w/ 6.0L & 3.73's
I dont believe we totally striped the thread just the first few so I am goint to carefully run a tap in and try and clean and rethread the beginning threads. the tapped part of the crank is about 1.5 inches deep. the old saying "Its not over till the fat lady sings" well she is getting ready to hum.
sigpic
1998 Trans Am Convertible A4 - WS6 hood, WS6 air lid, WS6 rims, drilled/slotted rotors.
Wasn't planning on it. Bottom end wise we were just going to check bearings and make sure they were good. Is balancing really necessary with a stock crank?
Don't know - depends on what Steve plans to tune it to spin to. I wouldn't want to go too much over 6000rpms from what I've read about the bottom ends not liking it.
Thats what I was gonna say. While you have it apart, might as well replace the rod bolts. Those are what usually fail. You'll be right there since you are going to check out the bearings anyway.
2011 Mustang GT
20" Satin Black AMRs with 305/35 & 275/35 MT Street Radials, Saleen Grille, CS Lower Valance, Roush Axleback, GT500 Spoiler, resonator delete
The operating range of the cam will tell you how much rpm you may need. Also the cam can be advanced to drop the power band to lower rpm as long as you don't have PTV clearance issues. You would need an adjustable timing set.
I think you'll be fine with leaving the bottom end alone.
Craig
Semi Retired Street Racer
2012 Lava Red Mustang GT 5.0 MT82
GONE BUT NOT FORGOTEN
sigpic NBM `98 Formula M6 HdTp
1 of 1 Build Date 3/12/98
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I might as well replace the rods and while I'm replacing the rods I might as well replace the pistons.
If you do that you are going to want to have it rebalanced.
250.00 to have that done.
VicePresident of West Michigan Firebird Club A.K.A The Maverick http://www.cardomain.com/ride/660128/1 93 TA Currently Under Construction AGAIN 2007 2500 Chevy Silverado Crew Cab w/ 6.0L & 3.73's
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