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  • #16
    I dont know wat a4 or m6 means.. its a 95 lt1 automatic with msd pro billet opti and full exhaust and a stock 10 bolt if that helps any.. i have heard get a converter b4
    Originally posted by hoogiesngrinderz View Post
    Not sure where you are getting your numbers from, Bryan. AI's 21 degree head and cam kit will run around 4k but their 190cc street kit with head porting will be in the lower 3k range (heads, cam, intake work, rockers, lifters, etc etc)

    Need to know more about the car to make a better suggestion. A4 or M6? If A4, are you willing to buy a new converter? Also, what gears are in the rear end?

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    • #17
      A4 - automatic 4 speed. M6 - manual 6 speed. Since you have the auto, converter and cam need to match up to make the most of it, and good converters aren't cheap. You also need 3.42 or higher gears just for a decent cam upgrade. "stock ten bolt" doesn't help us know what gearing it came with, take a picture of the RPO codes that are on the drivers side door and post it up.

      1998 Camaro Z28 - Bright Red, 6.0 TR224, 4l60e, 3.42 Eaton TrueTrac
      1989 Camaro IROC-Z Convertible - 355 big tube TPI, WC T5, 3.42 Zexel Torsen, CTS-V/C4 brakes
      1955 Bel Air 2 Door Post - 357 TPI, Muncie M20, 4 wheel disc

      2006 Saab 9-7x 5.3i Daily Driver

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      • #18
        I have the window sticker here and it says.....REAR PERFORM AXLE, 3.23 RATIO - 175.00.. So unless another owner changed it which i doubt it that shood b it..

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        • #19
          i also seen some 58mm ported intakes from Arkansas polishing .com does anyone have one of thos ? its powder coated intake and throttle body polished fuel rails and fins and ported to 58mm for around $300

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          • #20
            I'd be careful with that large of ports. They can actually kill the low end torque on smaller cube small blocks

            1998 Camaro Z28 - Bright Red, 6.0 TR224, 4l60e, 3.42 Eaton TrueTrac
            1989 Camaro IROC-Z Convertible - 355 big tube TPI, WC T5, 3.42 Zexel Torsen, CTS-V/C4 brakes
            1955 Bel Air 2 Door Post - 357 TPI, Muncie M20, 4 wheel disc

            2006 Saab 9-7x 5.3i Daily Driver

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            • #21
              Damn!!! seems like every idea i have is gona hurt my power.. or spend tons of money for a small gain

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              • #22
                Got my numbers from the few glances I took at the price, not surprised they're off. Sorry
                1997 Trans Am
                T56 swap. LS1 Cosmetics

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                • #23
                  So to recap nothing gives a lt1 horsepower unless u wanna spend 20k right? lol what is a good next step for my car then ?

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by s-10fan262 View Post
                    Damn!!! seems like every idea i have is gona hurt my power.. or spend tons of money for a small gain
                    Around $600-800 and you should be able to wake it up with a cam and some good valve train components. You'll have to do all the labor though.

                    For your setup - maybe a 216/222 .500/.510 114 LSA? Call Comp Cams and see what they have to say about those numbers, they know more about them than I do

                    1998 Camaro Z28 - Bright Red, 6.0 TR224, 4l60e, 3.42 Eaton TrueTrac
                    1989 Camaro IROC-Z Convertible - 355 big tube TPI, WC T5, 3.42 Zexel Torsen, CTS-V/C4 brakes
                    1955 Bel Air 2 Door Post - 357 TPI, Muncie M20, 4 wheel disc

                    2006 Saab 9-7x 5.3i Daily Driver

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Originally posted by s-10fan262 View Post
                      So to recap nothing gives a lt1 horsepower unless u wanna spend 20k right? lol what is a good next step for my car then ?
                      It depends on your goals. If you want to keep the stock stall and 3.23's then the cam numbers I listed (or ones close to it) are probably the most you want to go.

                      1998 Camaro Z28 - Bright Red, 6.0 TR224, 4l60e, 3.42 Eaton TrueTrac
                      1989 Camaro IROC-Z Convertible - 355 big tube TPI, WC T5, 3.42 Zexel Torsen, CTS-V/C4 brakes
                      1955 Bel Air 2 Door Post - 357 TPI, Muncie M20, 4 wheel disc

                      2006 Saab 9-7x 5.3i Daily Driver

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        im interested in a converter and gears it seems 2 b a popular choice.. wats the best route there? i dont wanna hurt the driveabilty. but i wood like more punch off the line.

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                        • #27
                          You really should get on LTX tech
                          And loyd Elliott is going to be a little cheaper than AI and the power numbers will be somewhat comparable look it up


                          http://elliottsportworks.com/
                          Last edited by 97firehawk; October 25th, 2012, 10:12 AM.
                          sigpic1997 firehawk # 115 6 speed. Its just a little ole LT1

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                          • #28
                            There's no sense in reinventing the wheel for your build. Find one you like on here or LTXtech and duplicate it. I think you could be into a 350rwhp cam build for less than $2k and that should be plenty fun for you
                            2000 Trans Am l 1967 Firebird

                            sigpic

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                            • #29
                              I made 370rwhp cam only with cleaned up valve bowls (the most basic headwork, doesnt increase the port runner volume) and a little extra compression. Thats well over 400 crank. LT1s are fussy engines, you need to pick the right parts and match them for good results. The engine work cost me about 2k with an advanced induction cam an all the suppporting parts. Check out my youtube channel, its the same as my username here.
                              -Joel
                              1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
                              1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


                              WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

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                              • #30
                                Originally posted by JoeliusZ28 View Post
                                I made 370rwhp cam only with cleaned up valve bowls (the most basic headwork, doesnt increase the port runner volume) and a little extra compression. Thats well over 400 crank. LT1s are fussy engines, you need to pick the right parts and match them for good results. The engine work cost me about 2k with an advanced induction cam an all the suppporting parts. Check out my youtube channel, its the same as my username here.
                                There is a line between doing it right and making good power(See above) and half assing it and making 325RWHP. Joel and a few others on here have stepped over that line. Please take your time, buy good well matched parts and join Joel.


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