long tube Ypipe routing?

[zeeman]

Well the car is all back together. It runs real nice, with one exception. There is a real odd vibration when I get on it. Under modest driving conditions its no problem. But when I unleash the hounds its pretty scary.
But my question here is... When I routed my pipes back to the cat back I had the cross member off. So when I noticed it no on I put it over the pipe. Thinking about that now I am not sure that is the way it should be. I cant remember if the pipe was above or below the cross member. And I am wondering if this could be contributing to the vibration..

[c0ncEpT]

Are you talking about that little wavy piece of steel? If so from the factory it goes above it. Most just remove it when using an aftermarket exhaust.

[JoeliusZ28]

Yep, the "wavy piece of steel" is removed from my car but i had to as i have duals.

[zeeman]

I am 99% sure its the headers beating against the floor. I ordered urethane motor mounts for it today, we'll see if that helps. I also ordered the correct type of clamps, the strap type, from united auto parts. They were out of the 3 inch ones that I needed for my headers. I should pick them up on Tuesday. I will reinstall the pipes, and align them better on tuesday. Maybe get the mounts done then too as I am on midnights this week.That is, If I get the brake job done on the jeep tomorrow or sunday.
Man is that thing loud! lol.

[JoeliusZ28]

an easier fix than going through all that is just use a floor jack to "adjust" the floor pan about a half inch or so. Thats what i did... took 10 seconds, and its something youd never even notice.

[zeeman]

I'll keep that in mind as plan "b" lol. The mounts are already paid for and ordered. wtf, its only money . I just need to get the jeep done. That has become a priority. I am removing the Teves calipers and replacing them with Akibonos. I am tired of warped rotors. After that I can concentrate on the camaro. I have some cross drilled, and slotted rotors, all of them, to put on next. They are black zinc coated. Couldnt pass them up for $150.00 shipped. And the power seat rails for the drivers side......... one thing at a time

[astroracer]

Before you change the motor mounts check the trans mount. If it is the stock rubber piece it has probably separated and that lets the trans rotate up and hit the floor under hard acceleration. The torque arm is driving the trans up. I replaced the stock (broken) mount with a poly mount on my CETA right after I got the car and it is better. I don't like the poly mount because it transmits all of the driveline vibrations into the Shifter/floor. My next recourse is to add the torque arm relocator bracket so I can go back to the stock trans mount.
Mark

[zeeman]

Now you tell me! lol. Picked up my mounts today, all three. I am going to do a few more things while I am into it again. Well, redo a few things, the left header has a small leak. One of the bolts was binding during installation, so I am going to remove that header and clearance the bolt hole. It should make the mount installation easier. What I really need is someones spare head, so I can line up the header and figure out which way to elongate the hole. If anyone has a spare head I could borrow for a few minutes I would really appreciate it.
One of the lifters on the passenger side is still ticking when cold. So I am going to re set all of them. I may have gotten the order wrong when setting preload, Ill try again. I am going to use a different method for getting the lifters to the bottom of the lobe this time. I am going to use the #1 t.d.c. and #6 T.D.C. methode this time. I am too lazy to pull the plugs so I can crank it by hand. This will also tell me if the harmonic balancer is in the correct position.


EDIT: I ended up going with the firing order. Its too confusing figuring out which valve is what on certain cylinders, then looking back and trying to remember which ones I did or did not adjust. Way easier this method. Just more up and down since I was spinning it from underneath.

[NnOoSsSs]

You can also heat the ypipe up with a torch and bend it down a bit.

[QuickTop]

Before you change the motor mounts check the trans mount. If it is the stock rubber piece it has probably separated and that lets the trans rotate up and hit the floor under hard acceleration. The torque arm is driving the trans up. I replaced the stock (broken) mount with a poly mount on my CETA right after I got the car and it is better. I don't like the poly mount because it transmits all of the driveline vibrations into the Shifter/floor. My next recourse is to add the torque arm relocator bracket so I can go back to the stock trans mount.
Mark

This