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  • LT1 Cam Selection?

    Alright guys, I'm going to need some help. I'm opening my options to atleast know what to plan for. AGAIN -- PLANNING STAGE.

    If I wanted to get a decent LT1 cam, what would you LT1 guys recommend? I've always been in love with lope, but I was reading that the more lope you have the less vacuum and you can get it to the point that the power brakes won't work? I don't want something that extreme, but I really like the whomp...... whomp...... whomp...... whomp...... of a nice loped cam.

    So what would you guys recommend? I don't want to do a heads package right now, but if I were to do it in the future, I'd want a cam that would work with stock heads but benefit with worked heads.
    - Brian Meissen
    Owner, MiFBody.com
    Administrator, LTxTech.com


    1994 Camaro LT1 Transplant - 357ci LT1, cammed, stalled, and driven.
    2022 Camaro LT1 - "Cherry Bomb 2"
    Michigan FBody Meet & Greet Car Show 2022
    June 4th, 2022 - 9am to 3pm!!!
    The HUB Stadium, Auburn Hills, MI

  • #2
    everybody dogs on it but i am very happy with my lt4 hot cam kit has a real nice lump to it, and gives the car some get up n go
    wishing i could drive like joe and the atm squad

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    • #3
      im sure joel will have a lot to say once he gets ahold of this thread

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      • #4
        I'm leaning towards the LT4 Hot cam kit -- I like the price. But, I'm also excited to hear what Joel would recommend.
        - Brian Meissen
        Owner, MiFBody.com
        Administrator, LTxTech.com


        1994 Camaro LT1 Transplant - 357ci LT1, cammed, stalled, and driven.
        2022 Camaro LT1 - "Cherry Bomb 2"
        Michigan FBody Meet & Greet Car Show 2022
        June 4th, 2022 - 9am to 3pm!!!
        The HUB Stadium, Auburn Hills, MI

        Comment


        • #5
          I don't think that the LT4 is that bad of a cam. Look at a couple of vids, it's got some nice lope to it. The entire LT4 package on the other hand is what people usually dog on. It costs just as much as anything else, and doens't really perform all that great.

          2011 Mustang GT
          20" Satin Black AMRs with 305/35 & 275/35 MT Street Radials, Saleen Grille, CS Lower Valance, Roush Axleback, GT500 Spoiler, resonator delete

          In Progress: Brembo 6-piston brake upgrade


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          • #6
            Originally posted by meissen View Post
            Alright guys, I'm going to need some help. I'm opening my options to atleast know what to plan for. AGAIN -- PLANNING STAGE.

            If I wanted to get a decent LT1 cam, what would you LT1 guys recommend? I've always been in love with lope, but I was reading that the more lope you have the less vacuum and you can get it to the point that the power brakes won't work? I don't want something that extreme, but I really like the whomp...... whomp...... whomp...... whomp...... of a nice loped cam.

            So what would you guys recommend? I don't want to do a heads package right now, but if I were to do it in the future, I'd want a cam that would work with stock heads but benefit with worked heads.
            Brian, if i tried to answer every question you might have here, id write a goddamn book and youd be afraid to read it The best advice I can give you for now is that since you have time... do your homework!!!! A full understanding always makes the end result more rewarding. If you want the fast track to learning about cams then do the following:

            1) make a list of all the shelf cams availible (search camaroz28.com) in a word document. Record all of their specs (name of the cam, duration, LSA, lift w/1.5 rocker, lift w/1.6 rocker, etc). You dont have to pay attention to the specs yet, just write them down so you can compare later.

            2) Read my camshaft sticky in the intake/exhaust forum. This will answer most of your newbie questions about what the specs mean. I will give you the extreme basic right now and tell you that a "big" cam usually has more degrees of duration, less degrees of lobe seperation angle, and more lift than a stock cam. I can explain these numbers in more depth later. cams are most commonly referenced in terms of duration. Stock cams are in the high 20x range and the Ron Jeremy cams are usually in the 24x-25x range.

            3) Discover how the specs affect an engine's personality by watching YOUTUBE VIDEOS! simply search for them either by their name or duration. ex: if you search 226/234 on youtube, my car will probably be the first result.

            4) Ask Joel your questions on AIM

            Lastly you are correct about the vacuum issue. I DO have to press my brake pedal harder than i did before to get the same stopping power.

            Alternatively, if you dont care to learn this stuff... then you could also tell me what your goals are and ill give you my best recommendation.

            Originally posted by my95z28 View Post
            I don't think that the LT4 is that bad of a cam. Look at a couple of vids, it's got some nice lope to it. The entire LT4 package on the other hand is what people usually dog on. It costs just as much as anything else, and doens't really perform all that great.
            I completely disagree with that, the bang for the buck of an LT4 kit is nearly impossible to beat. A little over $500 and you get everything except for a timing chain (IIRC). Any other package you are looking at over 1k unless the cam is small enough to use stock stuff.
            Last edited by JoeliusZ28; October 14th, 2008, 11:11 AM.
            -Joel
            1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
            1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


            WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

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            • #7
              HYDRABOOST!
              Gone but not forgotten: 1986 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z

              "You shall ride eternal. Shiny and chrome."

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              • #8
                Well, I understand the LT4 hot cam kit is everything that's necessary -- I guess my only question left is if there is anything comparable that doesn't require tons of supporting mods (read: is cheap and simple). Everything that I've googled makes the LT4 hot cam kit sound like the best option if I don't want to do head work.

                I did skim through the first part of the cam sticky -- I'm kind of understanding the cam specs, but I think my biggest question is where is the line that a cam is "so big" that it requires head work and/or other supporting mods. For example, if I go with the LT4 hot cam kit, it sounds like I have everything I'd need. If I went with a different cam, will I need to purchase anything [supporting mods wise] else like larger injectors, fuel pump, etc?
                Last edited by meissen; October 14th, 2008, 12:13 PM.
                - Brian Meissen
                Owner, MiFBody.com
                Administrator, LTxTech.com


                1994 Camaro LT1 Transplant - 357ci LT1, cammed, stalled, and driven.
                2022 Camaro LT1 - "Cherry Bomb 2"
                Michigan FBody Meet & Greet Car Show 2022
                June 4th, 2022 - 9am to 3pm!!!
                The HUB Stadium, Auburn Hills, MI

                Comment


                • #9
                  Im a big fan of the Comp 503 cam...it is suppose to be a great streetable cam that gives you great power...I actually was going to install one on mine but plans changed and i sold it. I know you said you dont want to deal with a heads package but you may consider a LE heads cam package...they are very reasonably priced.
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                  • #10
                    and when i did my lt4 hot cam kit the only things i needed not included in the kit were gaskets and a new timing chain, lol and ya i would recommend changing out the opti while your at it lol


                    no head work required, but just as a added info if i remember correctly you can go as big as .585 lift on lt1s before u start smashing valves and needing pistons and head work, correct me if im wrong joel or any1, but just food for thought
                    wishing i could drive like joe and the atm squad

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                    • #11
                      You can use a bigger cam and not have to worry about your fuel pump and injectors. I'm pretty sure Joel is still on stock pump and injectors.

                      With that being said even if you needed a pump Russ commented in another one of your threads that he had a walbro that he would pretty much give to you Brian

                      O and I would talk to this guy on LS1tech by the name of PatrickG and tell him the goals of the car and he will spec you a custom grind cam to your exact needs


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                      • #12
                        While that sounds pretty sweet, I doubt that his custom spec cam with whatever other necessary valve springs etc would come in under ~$600
                        - Brian Meissen
                        Owner, MiFBody.com
                        Administrator, LTxTech.com


                        1994 Camaro LT1 Transplant - 357ci LT1, cammed, stalled, and driven.
                        2022 Camaro LT1 - "Cherry Bomb 2"
                        Michigan FBody Meet & Greet Car Show 2022
                        June 4th, 2022 - 9am to 3pm!!!
                        The HUB Stadium, Auburn Hills, MI

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Joel, isn't it true that the amount of overlap will roughly determine the vacuum (more overlap = less vacuum [been a while since I dialed a grind in])? I know spring rate and other factors make for the end result, but on a grind level?
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                          Why the Hell do I have to press 1 for english?!


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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by meissen View Post
                            Well, I understand the LT4 hot cam kit is everything that's necessary -- I guess my only question left is if there is anything comparable that doesn't require tons of supporting mods (read: is cheap and simple). Everything that I've googled makes the LT4 hot cam kit sound like the best option if I don't want to do head work.

                            I did skim through the first part of the cam sticky -- I'm kind of understanding the cam specs, but I think my biggest question is where is the line that a cam is "so big" that it requires head work and/or other supporting mods. For example, if I go with the LT4 hot cam kit, it sounds like I have everything I'd need. If I went with a different cam, will I need to purchase anything [supporting mods wise] else like larger injectors, fuel pump, etc?
                            My guess is that anything bigger than the LT4 HC (or similar) will require head work to get the most out of the cam.

                            I know too many people that install that "monster" cam to get the lope, and end up slower that what they were before.

                            But I'd also get that Walbro that Russ was offering anyway...good price and required piece of the foundation for anything you do in the future...
                            Originally posted by Redd8407
                            I WANT NOISE! SPEED! AN ENGINE THAT SHAKES MY INTERNAL ORGANS LIKE THEY GOT PARKINSON'S! I DONT WANT AN ENGINE THAT IS PARTIALLY POWERED BY MY LAPTOP BATTERY!
                            Originally posted by Z28ISGR8
                            WHY THE F*CK IS THERE A GOAT ON A FERRARI?
                            Originally posted by Darren
                            I think it is because I take it in and out all the time, the rubber has just stretched out, especially at the bottom where it is really thin. It annoys me more then anything.

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by JoeliusZ28 View Post


                              I completely disagree with that, the bang for the buck of an LT4 kit is nearly impossible to beat. A little over $500 and you get everything except for a timing chain (IIRC). Any other package you are looking at over 1k unless the cam is small enough to use stock stuff.
                              I was reffering to the LT4 cam/heads/intake package. That is what I believe costs a shit load and doesn't do much for power.

                              2011 Mustang GT
                              20" Satin Black AMRs with 305/35 & 275/35 MT Street Radials, Saleen Grille, CS Lower Valance, Roush Axleback, GT500 Spoiler, resonator delete

                              In Progress: Brembo 6-piston brake upgrade


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