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Here is a link to my problem on ltx:
http://ltxtech.com/forums/showthread...e-or-after-24x
Anyone on here have any ideas? I don't know if its my wiring, my pcm, or what.
here are copy and paste of my post:
6/9/14
A little back ground. I redid the top end of my motor, front end, and rebuilt my blower last year. Finished everything up in June. First problem I had was in August at the dreamcruise where my car just suddenly died on me about 1hr into cruising. Let it sit for 30minutes on the side of the road and it started back up. Thought it was ICM or coil just got really hot. Put new acdelco icm and coil on. It still continued to randomly die on me, but the frequency ended up getting higher and heat had nothing to do with it. Sometimes it would sit for 15 minutes and start, other times it had to sit overnight.
Fast foward to this year, I take it out for the first time and it dies after 5 minutes of driving. I managed to get it home and the next morning it died after I pulled it out of the barn. I couldn't get it running after that at all, so I thought maybe the opti was bad (35k miles on it). I took this opportunity to buy the 24x kit, d585 coils, 0411 pcm (retuned for my car by original tuner). I bought the DIY harness kit from BP automotive.
I installed everything and no start. Pulled harness back out and double checked and verified everything. Went and bought noid light and spark tester, and I am getting no injector pulse and no spark. I do have voltage to pink coil wires, and pretty sure at the injectors also (been a long frustrating weekend).
I thought maybe the VATS was not working, so I installed the correct resistor and that changed nothing.
7/18/14
Still not running, here is the latest. Sent pcm back to get retuned with a stock 2002 z28 m6 file and modified for my combo by same tuner.
Crank sensor is working, seeing 10.5v to 0v when rotating engine by hand - not battery voltage. Is that normal? I have email into Efi connection as of a few hours ago.
When cranking, I get 2 injector pulses on noid light. I hooked up an led to the injector terminal and it was lit up dim constantly. I measured between the 2 terminals and get 6.5v. Pink supply is battery voltage by itself. Injector control wire not shorted to ground.
Whats next on my troubleshooting? I am left with 2 questions:
1) is 10.5v normal on the crank sensor signal?
2)Why the 6.5v between the injector lead terminals?
http://ltxtech.com/forums/showthread...e-or-after-24x
Anyone on here have any ideas? I don't know if its my wiring, my pcm, or what.
here are copy and paste of my post:
6/9/14
A little back ground. I redid the top end of my motor, front end, and rebuilt my blower last year. Finished everything up in June. First problem I had was in August at the dreamcruise where my car just suddenly died on me about 1hr into cruising. Let it sit for 30minutes on the side of the road and it started back up. Thought it was ICM or coil just got really hot. Put new acdelco icm and coil on. It still continued to randomly die on me, but the frequency ended up getting higher and heat had nothing to do with it. Sometimes it would sit for 15 minutes and start, other times it had to sit overnight.
Fast foward to this year, I take it out for the first time and it dies after 5 minutes of driving. I managed to get it home and the next morning it died after I pulled it out of the barn. I couldn't get it running after that at all, so I thought maybe the opti was bad (35k miles on it). I took this opportunity to buy the 24x kit, d585 coils, 0411 pcm (retuned for my car by original tuner). I bought the DIY harness kit from BP automotive.
I installed everything and no start. Pulled harness back out and double checked and verified everything. Went and bought noid light and spark tester, and I am getting no injector pulse and no spark. I do have voltage to pink coil wires, and pretty sure at the injectors also (been a long frustrating weekend).
I thought maybe the VATS was not working, so I installed the correct resistor and that changed nothing.
7/18/14
Still not running, here is the latest. Sent pcm back to get retuned with a stock 2002 z28 m6 file and modified for my combo by same tuner.
Crank sensor is working, seeing 10.5v to 0v when rotating engine by hand - not battery voltage. Is that normal? I have email into Efi connection as of a few hours ago.
When cranking, I get 2 injector pulses on noid light. I hooked up an led to the injector terminal and it was lit up dim constantly. I measured between the 2 terminals and get 6.5v. Pink supply is battery voltage by itself. Injector control wire not shorted to ground.
Whats next on my troubleshooting? I am left with 2 questions:
1) is 10.5v normal on the crank sensor signal?
2)Why the 6.5v between the injector lead terminals?
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