No start, no nothing, zilch

I took my 89 GTA 350 TPI for a cruise this morning and it ran great, suspension was workin', exhaust cacklin'. Then at dinner time went to the local Mex joint. Came out, hit the key, and nothing. I have had the VATS pull this on me before, but if you wait a few minutes it always starts. Not this time, tried several cycles and nothing, nada. The dash lights come on (SES, Security and brake), but no starter action. The car has had a by-pass done by a former owner, but I can't see where when looking under the dash. I use a key with no chip in it. Any suggestions if it don't start again tomorrow (it's still at the Mex joint). Is there a way to by-pass all the VATS stuff and wire it like a second gen??? I guess I need to tow it if worse comes to worse. Or sell/trade.

[Darren]

I'll give ya $1! Good luck man I have no idea what could be the problem it does sound like a VATS/Security thing tho

[1BADAIR]

no crank or no start?

[Kwazrollinz28]

someone cut all the wires to my security on my car, It annoys me because all the moron needed was a new key and now i still have to fix it cause half the time my remote for the power locks won't work.

[steddy]

Do you have a key with the chip on hand? It could be also, that the VATS resistor mod the former owner did wasn't solid enough and came loose on ya. When you try to start it, does the security light blink?

[greco]

Thanks for the replies, guys. When I try to start it, all the lights go out except the SES light. The security and brake light go black. When I let go of the key, they all light back up, just ike it's suppose to. It has always done this.

My daughters key has the chip, and it causes no starts more than the non-chip key. My daughter drove this car to schol for 2 yrs in good weather, and she now says she had a lot of no starts with it, but I've only had 2 in several months with the no chip key. I honestly don't know if the key with the chip is even the right key for this car. The previous owner should never been allowed near a wrench, and after 2+ years, I am still fixing things that he screwed up.

A dollar...hmmm. I gotta think about it.
The bad thing is have sunk considerable cash into this vehicle. It has no rust (from Boca Grand Florida), new p/s pump, heater core, lots of other things, suspension rebuild (bushings and ball joints), U-joints, and lots of other goodies, plus new paint. I hate to give it up just over something that is probably minor. On the other hand, if I can't figure it out, it's not minor.

Hey, answer me this. Could it possibly be a starter or relay problem?? I get absolutely no noise when I turn the key..not even a click.

[steddy]

Ok, let's use the k.i.s.s. principle. Make sure the cables are tight. Make sure there is no corrosion on either contact or breaks in the cables. Something to maybe look at is removing the sound insulator panel below the steering column to see the wiring for the column and check to see if you can find where the guy wired in the resistor to bypass the VATS. It should be remedied by taking it out and just soldering the wire back together without the resistor, down side, to the tune of a new ignition key with the chip. Unfortunately, I haven't an idea what color that wire is (namely because I didn't like the sound of it).

[98blackbeauty]

I bet its the sec. module. it picks a relay or internally completes the circuit to the start solenoid. The mod simply eliminates the resister in the key chip, it could all be ok and the sec. module has pooped out. It can be eliminated all together but you need a wiring diagram and need to locate where it is. First, of course, is you need to get car home. www.shbox.com has wire diagram of mod and circuit for 4th gen I would imagine is very simular and would give you an idea of the circuit. If you locate the theft deterent relay you could jumper that and starter will crank. I might still need the more things but that would tell you where your problem is.

I'll up the bid to $5.00 LOL

[Darren]

Yes I agree with Steddy use the KISS method first to help elminate things. Do you have a test light or volt meter? I would start testing for power to specific things like the starter itself the relays and fuses. It is quite possible that you just blew a fuse and now the car wont start...

[98blackbeauty]

Ok, let's use the k.i.s.s. principle. Make sure the cables are tight. Make sure there is no corrosion on either contact or breaks in the cables. Something to maybe look at is removing the sound insulator panel below the steering column to see the wiring for the column and check to see if you can find where the guy wired in the resistor to bypass the VATS. It should be remedied by taking it out and just soldering the wire back together without the resistor, down side, to the tune of a new ignition key with the chip. Unfortunately, I haven't an idea what color that wire is (namely because I didn't like the sound of it).

If you do this though you will have to have the key with the resister in it to start the car but it won't eliminate the module as being the failure. KISS is always the way to go.

[TSTONE]

In 89 the VATS system used a 4min interval for time outs.

If it's VATS problem.

Start by moving the tilt wheel to the furthest opposite direction from it's current position and attempt to start vehicle.

If it doesn't start then turn off key and wait a minimum of 4min's.

Move steering wheel tilt one notch and attempt to start.

If still not starting repeat until all positions are exhausted.

Beyond that you'll be getting into more diagnosis.

Good luck.

[steddy]

All in all, this may just be another PIA. Good luck with it. Always sucks to go behind a shade-tree.

[greco]

Well, da car was towed home. I have already had the hush panel off, and I can't see any modifications to the wiring. I don't know where the VATS by-pass is located. The harness under the dash seems to be OK, all functions are there.. Horn, t/s, etc. Now I am gonna look at that secondary relay that Plum says might do it...

Also, I'm gonna do a continuity test at the starter. My nephew has a starter he is going to bring over, and we're gonna switch that too...

$5.00 offer...man, yer makin' me waiver ... I could sure use the cash.

[TSTONE]

did you go through the procedure i wrote out for you?

[98blackbeauty]

Well, da car was towed home. I have already had the hush panel off, and I can't see any modifications to the wiring. I don't know where the VATS by-pass is located. The harness under the dash seems to be OK, all functions are there.. Horn, t/s, etc. Now I am gonna look at that secondary relay that Plum says might do it...

Also, I'm gonna do a continuity test at the starter. My nephew has a starter he is going to bring over, and we're gonna switch that too...

$5.00 offer...man, yer makin' me waiver ... I could sure use the cash.

How and where are you going to test continuity to starter? If you locate the theft deterent relay you could go from there to starter. Do you have a wiring diagram?