Building a stout 383 SBC Gen I engine, want input :)

[Jdseibe]

Hey All,

So after months of working with a local machine shop on building them a website, I have finally finished my work with them. We have agreed on what my payment shall be, which is basically they will do all machine work, assembly, break in, and dyno my engine for me for free. They can also get me most of the parts at cost (rotating assembly, gaskets, etc)

I would like to get somewhere around the 500hp range with this engine build. and would love to get peoples input and opinions on this build. I was originally going to do an LSx build, but I think a Gen I SBC will work out better since I won't need to worry about as much since it will be pretty much a direct swap.

currently I haven't bought any parts for this project, not even the block. but the plans are so far are something like this..

- 4 bolt main 350 bare block (is this overkill?)
- 383 stroker kit, they said they can get met an eagle rotating assembly (with hyper pistons) for like $500 (should I go forged?)
- Comp cams extreme energy cam? I'm looking for something that will give me some good proven power, I hear a lot of good things about these
- Heads? not sure what to do for these yet.. because if I buy new.. then I waste any benefit from them being able to do all the work for free, was considering vortec, but not sure how if they would be good for the HP I would like to get
- What kind of valves / springs should I do?
- rocker arms (ratio, type, etc?)
- flat tappet or retrofit roller?
- where should my compression ratio be at? what cc heads/pistons should I be considering

There are a lot of things that can play out here obviously.. I would just really like some solid input on what direction I should go..

Things to consider

- Car is currently an auto (700r4) but will be converted to a t-56 at some point
- Car will probably very rarely see the drag strip, but it will go occasionally.
- Car will be carb'd at first, but will probably swap out for a fiTech efi setup eventually
- Car will not ever use nitrous, and I don't at this time have any plans to do a forced induction setup on this engine, if I want to go that route, I would probably sell this engine and buy an junkyard LSx and turbo that.

[farmington]

if you can afford stepping up to a hydraulic roller do it.

[MP81]

if you can afford stepping up to a hydraulic roller do it.

Definitely this.

[hoogiesngrinderz]

500 is on the high side for a cast crank. Better heads and a milder cam would work better than vortecs with a cam that beats up the valvetrain. A used set of AFR195s would work a good bang for your buck.

[Jdseibe]

if you can afford stepping up to a hydraulic roller do it.

Definitely this.

I'll see what kind of deals they might be able to get them for me at.

500 is on the high side for a cast crank. Better heads and a milder cam would work better than vortecs with a cam that beats up the valvetrain. A used set of AFR195s would work a good bang for your buck.

so it looks like I might be able to pay a bit more and get a eagle rotating assembly with a forged crank and KB/Speed Pro Hypereutectic pistons.. would that be suitable for 500hp? I've been trying to keep my eyes out for any deals at all on a set of used aftermarket heads.. but its crazy that most people want to get almost new prices for their used heads.

[hoogiesngrinderz]

Definitely opt for the forged crank, hypereutectics will hold but hate detonation. Look for bare heads, I got my Edelbrocks for $425

[Jdseibe]

So I think I may have settled on a rotating assembly, it looks like the only ones the shop can get me at a good price are all cast ones.. so I may have to bite the bullet and buy myself one from elsewhere..

I came across one form speedway motors and it looks to fit the bill.. at $1400 it seems like a pretty decent deal.. any input?

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Forged...ods,36429.html

• Scat 4340 Forged Steel Crankshaft
  • Straight shot and chamfered oil holes
  • Nitride hardened and shot peened
  • Lightening holes in all rod throws
  • Large radius on all journals
  
  
• Scat Pro Comp 4340 I-Beam Rods
  • Stroker clearanced
  • ARP 7/16" cap screw bolts
  • Bushed pin
  • 5.7" rod: 628 grams
  • Crank pin: 2.100"
  • Wrist pin: .927"
  • B.E. width: .940"
  • Set of 8 rods
  
  
• KB Signature Series Forged Pistons
  • Dished
  • 2618 aluminum alloy construction
  • T-6 heat treated
  • 4.000" bore pistons available in standard, .030, .040, or .060 sizes
  • 4.125" bore pistons available in standard, .030 or .040 sizes
  
  
• King HP SBC Connecting Rod Bearings
  • Standard option: Rod bearing for Small Block Chevy, for 2.00" journal
  • 450°F heat threshold for superior protection against friction and overheating
  • Greater rod bearing height improves bearing-to-bore contact/heat transfer and reduces spin potential at high RPM
  • 40 Vickers hardness to resist overlay migration and extrusion
  
  
• King HP Chevy 350 Main Bearings
  • Mains are 3/4 grooved for improved oiling to the rod journals
  • Greater rod bearing height improves bearing-to-bore contact/heat transfer and reduces spin potential at high RPM
  • 40 Vickers hardness to resist overlay migration and extrusion
  • 450°F heat threshold for superior protection against friction and overheating

[hoogiesngrinderz]

The one thing that I do like right off the bat - the rods have 7/16 cap screw bolts. A lot of people overlook this and run into a problem with a rod bolt hitting the camshaft. If you're using a flat tappet cam you may need to get a smaller base circle cam as well.

I did notice it wasn't a fully balanced kit. That's a bummer since it adds 2-300 in labor unless the shop has the ability to do it.

And for only $80 more, I'd recommend the 6.0" rod kit. Pistons are a good amount lighter and the rods only a few grams more, so overall it's a lighter assembly. Less stress, faster revving, a few more hp.

[Jdseibe]

The one thing that I do like right off the bat - the rods have 7/16 cap screw bolts. A lot of people overlook this and run into a problem with a rod bolt hitting the camshaft. If you're using a flat tappet cam you may need to get a smaller base circle cam as well.

I did notice it wasn't a fully balanced kit. That's a bummer since it adds 2-300 in labor unless the shop has the ability to do it.

And for only $80 more, I'd recommend the 6.0" rod kit. Pistons are a good amount lighter and the rods only a few grams more, so overall it's a lighter assembly. Less stress, faster revving, a few more hp.

The shop will do all the balancing and everything for free for me, also this is something I was wondering.. since this will 99.9% have a t-56 bolted to it.. does the balancing have any affect on flywheel vs flexplate?

[hoogiesngrinderz]

Not on an internally balanced engine. I would give the shop a flywheel to balance along with the rotating assembly though. I even gave my shop the clutch/pressure plate and my harmonic balancer.

[hoogiesngrinderz]

FYI - those kits are for 2 piece rear main seals. If you want to run hydraulic roller then you need the retrofit kits...which run $350 to $700+ just for the lifters


Newer blocks that are setup for hydraulic roller cams are 1 piece rear main seal. You would need this http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sca-1-41835/overview/

[bigjon88]

I got a carb n msd stuff all brand new minus the msd 6al box if you need parts lmk I got lot of Sbc stuff

[Jdseibe]

I got a carb n msd stuff all brand new minus the msd 6al box if you need parts lmk I got lot of Sbc stuff

Thanks Jon! I'll keep that in mind when I start collecting parts.. I think I will probably go with a fiTech EFI system though, so I'll probably pass on the carb.. but depending on what ignition stuff you have I may be interested.

[bigjon88]

Coil 6al box a dist. I think wires too

[Jdseibe]

So I have been researching Cams and all the associated parts to convert to a roller setup. I have a lead on a newer vortec 350 roller block, so I can use the OE style roller lifters, which helps with the cost quite a bit..

So I was looking at these cam kits, what does everyone think about these? if you add up all the individual parts.. it seems to be a decent deal..

Comp Complete Kit (K08-433-8) - $715.97 <- Total Kit Cost


Below is a list of the parts that come with the kit and how much they all cost individually.


- Cam: Xtreme Energy 288HR (08-433-8) $274.97
- Lifters: High Energy Hydraluic Roller Lifters (850-16) $223.97
- Timing Set: Hi-Tech Roller Race Timing Set (3136) $71.97
- Springs: Double Springs (986-16) $86.97
- Retainers: Valve Spring Retainers (740-16) $54.97
- Valve Locks: Super Valve Locks (611-16) $22.97
- Push Rods: High Energy Pushrods (7808-16) $36.97
- Valve Seals: Valve Seals (503-16) $22.97