Need to change the oil on my 97 Z28. It has 99k miles. The Chilton's manual says not to use synthetic oil on high mileage cars because it is thin and will blow by the rings? Any thoughts/experiences? Thanks!
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Is using synthetic oil on a high mileage car a good idea?
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I've heard this before but I don't really agree with it. Being "thin" means it has a lower viscosity and viscosity is measure by the weight. A 5W-30 should have the same viscosity whether synthetic or not. That said, Synthetics do have better lubricity and are less susceptible to thermal break down. If you have a high mileage engine you can chose an oil for high mileage be it synthetic or conventional.
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I switched my 90 bonneville to full Mobil 1 Synthetic at 200K miles and I didn't have these issues.
Every vehicle is different, but IMHO you want to run synthetic in an older vehicle just because it is supposed to stop any further excessive wear.
I know in my vehicles, it quieted everything down, and it ran better all around.
Started better in winter too.
It could also be said that they installed it too early to a low mileage engine, where the components didn't get a chance to seat and wear in properly.
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Not to hijack the thread but I'm kinda in the same boat only my 1996 z26 has 147000. Previous owner had just had the oil changed before I got it. Thing is now that I'm thinking its time to do it again I'm not sure if syn or standard oil was used. I also have a couple drops leaking from the front of the motor so I sure don't need that getting any worse. Any suggestions would be great help.
Also should I stick to the factory 5w-30 or maybe go to 10w-30? Again not sure what's in it now.
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Id stick with the factory 5w-30, just use the high mileage stuff. Lucas oil makes a bottle of oil stabalizer and I usually put some in when I change my oil. It just sticks to parts better so its less wear when you start up if your cars been sitting a whilesigpic
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Try this if you are able. auto rx.com
it will clean all the internals and repair seals safely using regular oil for cleaning and rinse phases, very good stuff that works.
I used it in both 120k mile Grand Prixs I have, then you run whatever oil you want once the insides are clean.sigpicMODS: SLP DUAL/DUAL EXHAUST, 160 STAT, MTI LID, SHANER S3 T.B., SMOOTH BELLOWS, DESCREENED MAF, TUNNEL BRACE, UMI SFC & PHB, STRANO SWAY BARS, DRILLED/SLOTTED ROTORS, WHISTLER LIGHTS, BLACK BILLET GRILLE w/69'SS EMBLEM, BLACK SMOOTHED TAIL PANEL w/69'SS EMBLEM, BLACK SS HOOD INSERT, INTIMIDATOR SS WHEELS.
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I run Rotella T6 in my LT1 with no issues. I've ran in in my last 3 modded cars and its been fine. It's cheap for a synthetic and designed for diesel trucks. I always let it warm up for about 5 min before I drive it and make sure the oil pressure is up. I never drive it when it's below 60° so it's never too thick.sigpic
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^^^ This.Originally posted by SOPES View PostId stick with the factory 5w-30, just use the high mileage stuff. Lucas oil makes a bottle of oil stabalizer and I usually put some in when I change my oil. It just sticks to parts better so its less wear when you start up if your cars been sitting a while
Also, most of the zinc has been removed from oils these days, and Lucas puts zinc back into the system...
Really only critical if you have a flat tappet cam, but still worth noting...Originally posted by Redd8407I WANT NOISE! SPEED! AN ENGINE THAT SHAKES MY INTERNAL ORGANS LIKE THEY GOT PARKINSON'S! I DONT WANT AN ENGINE THAT IS PARTIALLY POWERED BY MY LAPTOP BATTERY!Originally posted by Z28ISGR8WHY THE F*CK IS THERE A GOAT ON A FERRARI?Originally posted by DarrenI think it is because I take it in and out all the time, the rubber has just stretched out, especially at the bottom where it is really thin. It annoys me more then anything.
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I used that once in my VW and it's going into the bike next. That stuff is great and incredibly cheap.Originally posted by formula218 View PostI run Rotella T6 in my LT1 with no issues. I've ran in in my last 3 modded cars and its been fine. It's cheap for a synthetic and designed for diesel trucks. I always let it warm up for about 5 min before I drive it and make sure the oil pressure is up. I never drive it when it's below 60° so it's never too thick.1994 Z28 - 2002 M3 - 2015 1.0T Mileage Accumulator
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