lt1 tuning

[hoogiesngrinderz]

Don't over tighten the sensor! Doesn't need a lot

[JoeliusZ28]

If you have noisy rockers and/or headers you may just need to switch to the desensitized LT4 knock module.

[chrizar]

If you have noisy rockers and/or headers you may just need to switch to the desensitized LT4 knock module.

I have an exhaust leak atm i know that, o2's are only in snug not over done. I did notice the car is never going into closed loop, so I leaned out the open loop settings a little bit and it pulls a lot better all the way to the redline. Before it would hit about 5k and nose over. I also got my fans adjusted to turn on at 185, sitting in traffic today it got up to 220+ which I'm not a fan of at all even though it's safe.

[JoeliusZ28]

I have an exhaust leak atm i know that, o2's are only in snug not over done. I did notice the car is never going into closed loop, so I leaned out the open loop settings a little bit and it pulls a lot better all the way to the redline. Before it would hit about 5k and nose over. I also got my fans adjusted to turn on at 185, sitting in traffic today it got up to 220+ which I'm not a fan of at all even though it's safe.

Sounds like you need to start with the basics. Leaning open loop settings is a roundabout way of fixing a larger issue unless there is a specific reason you want an open loop tune. Fix the exhaust leak and also figure out what the deal is with it sticking in open loop... Probably a sensor unplugged, is your MAF working? Btw, staying open loop is also a reason for poor gas mileage, fine tuning cruise speed a/f is largely the reason closed loop systems are used.

Good call on the fans, although i went with a manual switch since its a big current draw and i can also run them engine off with my electric water pump which is nice.

[JoeliusZ28]

I see you are getting a value for afgs in your screen shot, so the MAF probably isnt the issue unless thats a default value.

[chrizar]

I see you are getting a value for afgs in your screen shot, so the MAF probably isnt the issue unless thats a default value.

MAF is working fine right at 6.8 to 7 is what it's been reading from what i've seen at idle. I think o2's are the issue, I tossed used ones in it for the time being to save money, I'm going to order new ones monday before work and see what happens. I also need a laptop that works on it's own, mine does not hold a charge at all.

But the car does run better now, so it's sort of a band aid till I can figure it all out.

Joel I also wanted to ask your suggestions on sway bars/susp stuff as I'd like to take the same sort of route you have with track days at some point.

[JoeliusZ28]

Anything specific you want to know? I honestly didnt research sway bars as much as the rest of the things i did. I more or less waited for them to come up used. I have spohn sway bars, which is not a brand id recommend. The front one is fine but there were some fitament oversights on the rear bar. The rear bar you really dont notice until youre pushing it hard, but the front bar makes an incredible difference...one of the best things ive done to the car.

[chrizar]

Anything specific you want to know? I honestly didnt research sway bars as much as the rest of the things i did. I more or less waited for them to come up used. I have spohn sway bars, which is not a brand id recommend. The front one is fine but there were some fitament oversights on the rear bar. The rear bar you really dont notice until youre pushing it hard, but the front bar makes an incredible difference...one of the best things ive done to the car.

Just curious if tubular arms are worth it at all, torque arm/relocation, sfc's, what springs/struts, that kinda thing. Being that you also have LT's any ground clearance issue's at all?

Gladly take any info you can pass on, as I'll probably buy as much as I can used as well.

[JoeliusZ28]

I wouldnt worry about LCAs unless you are having wheel hop issues. If you change them though, youll want to make sure you pick a set that has a heim joint on at least one end so that rear can articulate without binding... That was my first mistake, theyre not necessary for straight line setups but youll want them for cornering. I went from stock LCAs, to standard tubular, to double-heim joint lcas. Stock LCAs dont need a heim joint because the lca itself is designed to flex.

My torque arm is not relocated, just changed to a tubular design. Short torque arms are for drag racing. Relocating the mount in the stock location is probably beneficial for both. But even the setup i have made a major difference.

No issues with ground clearance. I hit two pretty good dips in the road yesterday that i could have sworn i was going to scrape on, but didnt. Honestly dont think ive scraped a single thing yet, but its not like im out looking for stuff to scrape...theres plenty of things that would im sure.

I used bilstein shocks to keep it simple. Springs is a discussion of its own, but cutting is actually a good way to go.

[95lt1z383]

LCA's and LCA relocation brackets would be the first suspension mod I would do to any car your trying to add power to and make hook up.

[JoeliusZ28]

LCA's and LCA relocation brackets would be the first suspension mod I would do to any car your trying to add power to and make hook up.

This is why another opinion is valuable! I didnt notice much difference. I also think some ofmthe issues people have with stock LCAs is attributed to worn bushings. If youve got slack in those you will get wheel hop. sometimes a whole new LCA just happens to be the easiest/best way to replace them.

[chrizar]

This is why another opinion is valuable! I didnt notice much difference. I also think some ofmthe issues people have with stock LCAs is attributed to worn bushings. If youve got slack in those you will get wheel hop. sometimes a whole new LCA just happens to be the easiest/best way to replace them.

No wheel hop for me right now, I have near 196k on the chassis and all is still well. It's getting an alignment most likely monday, and before I really add any more power I want to get it to corner and not feel like it's going to flop over. So I think I'm going to look into Strut bar, and sway bars first, springs/shocks next and go from there. With the new Toyo's on it hooks pretty damn good at my power level, now add 50 more hp that may be different but it's ok for now.

Thanks for the advice guys, always enjoy learning more about this stuff, rather do it once and do it right.