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Found some rust, what are my options?

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  • Found some rust, what are my options?

    I decided to start putting the car on a diet today and found some rust when I was working around the wiring. Figured I might as well pull the interior while I'm at it and see what I'm working with. Do these sections need to be cut out and replaced? If they do should I be revisiting whether or not I want to keep the car?

    Passenger side



    Driver side
    1994 Z28 - 2002 M3 - 2015 1.0T Mileage Accumulator

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  • #2
    Your best bet is to start grinding and sandblasting the areas. From the pics it looks to be all the way through. The correct way is to put in some new floor pans.

    Good luck!
    2002 Z28 Camaro A4
    1993 Z28 Camaro M6- SOLD
    1999 Z28 Camaro M6- SOLD
    2008 Ford Fusion SE - DD
    -- MCALUS MOLDED PILLAR PODS, PM ME FOR MORE INFO--
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    • #3
      Scrap the whole car its junk!







      Kidding see post above.
      Originally posted by Yoshi94
      Mines about an inch bigger than Kyles. I need to get one of those
      Originally posted by ryanwarby01
      Put it this way, if you have a money tree a LT1 is a wood chipper!
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      • #4
        I was able to put a screwdriver all the way through on one side. It looks like the rust is limited to directly under the seats, hasn't made it to the footwell. I can't weld so how much is this kinda thing going to cost if the car is already stripped?
        1994 Z28 - 2002 M3 - 2015 1.0T Mileage Accumulator

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        • #5
          if you know someone who welds cut out the bad areas, buy some metal and cut it to your shape as well as prep for a weld. then if they can cut you a deal on welding itll probably be jsut for materials, otherwise labor for them to cut, grind, shape would be alot.
          91 Trans am, 305, Lt1 cam, 24lb injectors, headers, SLP LM2, SW chassis, massive panhard, lowered, modded TPI, Tuned, 4.10s, Lincoln locked
          85 Z28 406/th400?/3.42 4th gen disc rear/4th gen dash
          00 Tahoe Z71........Stock
          97 K1500 lt4 cam, 1.6s, MPFI, Solid axled, IROKs,------winter beater

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          • #6
            Having a pro fix both those areas (you could fit your whole hand through the floor in those sections) cost me something like $250-300 a few years ago. IMO, if that's all that's wrong with the body of the car, I hardly think that's worth replacing the car.

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            • #7
              If it's only going to cost a few hundred bucks I might as well get it fixed. I don't have a welder or know anyone who does so I'll have it done professionally and I could use some suggestions. The car does need a few grand worth of work but I didn't realize how much these things went up in price. I can't really find anything cheaper that would make a good V8 RWD autocross/track day toy.
              1994 Z28 - 2002 M3 - 2015 1.0T Mileage Accumulator

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              • #8
                if you havent already invest in some subframe connectors if your gonna autox it. just take it to any custom fab shop see if they can do it and if they can get you a quote.
                91 Trans am, 305, Lt1 cam, 24lb injectors, headers, SLP LM2, SW chassis, massive panhard, lowered, modded TPI, Tuned, 4.10s, Lincoln locked
                85 Z28 406/th400?/3.42 4th gen disc rear/4th gen dash
                00 Tahoe Z71........Stock
                97 K1500 lt4 cam, 1.6s, MPFI, Solid axled, IROKs,------winter beater

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                • #9
                  I'm not going to bother with subframe connectors. You can't weld in the triangulated ones and I don't think the 2 point ones are worth their weight. I'm debating pulling off the strut tower bar too to get some weight off up high and on the front end.
                  1994 Z28 - 2002 M3 - 2015 1.0T Mileage Accumulator

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by landstuhltaylor View Post
                    I don't think the 2 point ones are worth their weight..
                    curious as to why you think this? I have 2 points on my car and think they do a great job.
                    sigpic
                    U.S. Army 1983-2005
                    11.20@122.37 1.51 60'

                    Originally posted by WMCCjames

                    "Plans Subject to change upon Sobering up"

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                    • #11
                      A lot of reading I read said stay away from SFC if you plan on auto x car, you do not want the extra weight. Unless you auto x and take it to drag strip.

                      Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk 2

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by BP_Z28 View Post
                        A lot of reading I read said stay away from SFC if you plan on auto x car, you do not want the extra weight. Unless you auto x and take it to drag strip.

                        Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk 2
                        ahh, got ya.. I should pay better attention.
                        sigpic
                        U.S. Army 1983-2005
                        11.20@122.37 1.51 60'

                        Originally posted by WMCCjames

                        "Plans Subject to change upon Sobering up"

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                        • #13
                          Is it a t-top car? SFC's are a must if you are going to be stressing the chassis aggressively like autoxing.


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                          Turbo Charged LS1/T56

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                          • #14
                            pretty sure it shouldnt really matter, either way the cars flex wether hardtop, ttop, or vert. sfc;s should have came from factory if you already start to have weak spots in the floor i wouldnt hesitate to get them
                            91 Trans am, 305, Lt1 cam, 24lb injectors, headers, SLP LM2, SW chassis, massive panhard, lowered, modded TPI, Tuned, 4.10s, Lincoln locked
                            85 Z28 406/th400?/3.42 4th gen disc rear/4th gen dash
                            00 Tahoe Z71........Stock
                            97 K1500 lt4 cam, 1.6s, MPFI, Solid axled, IROKs,------winter beater

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                            • #15
                              Now, as a disclaimer I don't know if these work well for a street/autocross car or if they're more for a drag-oriented car, but I can't see how they could hurt over a traditional SFC setup. But I know if I were buying SFCs these would be the only one's I'd consider since they're a true SFC, especially since you already need to cut the floor for the rust:

                              http://midwestchassis.com/subframe-connectors.html

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