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  • rear brakes not working.. need help

    alright so i have had this problem since last fall and am just getting around to fixing it since summer is just around the corner. the rear brakes just barely seem to engage at all.

    brake system consists of stock master, ssbc adjustable prop valve, aero space street brakes up front with wilwood drag rear discs. has 3/16's lines to both fronts with 1/4 inch out back and split into two 3/16ths to each side.

    i have pumped and bled both sides and am not getting any major pressure like it should. you can feel the rear calipers clamp down a little but not enough that you can not still move the rotor by hand.

    fronts clamp down great but the rears do not.

    any idea's?





  • #2
    My first instinct would say the prop valve needs to be adjusted. 1/4 seems like plenty of line to run the backs.
    1999 Camaro - 6 liters of fury.....

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    • #3
      My guess is a bad pressure seal for the rear portion of the MC.

      1998 Camaro Z28 - Bright Red, 6.0 TR224, 4l60e, 3.42 Eaton TrueTrac
      1989 Camaro IROC-Z Convertible - 355 big tube TPI, WC T5, 3.42 Zexel Torsen, CTS-V/C4 brakes
      1955 Bel Air 2 Door Post - 357 TPI, Muncie M20, 4 wheel disc

      2006 Saab 9-7x 5.3i Daily Driver

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      • #4
        Originally posted by sman View Post
        My first instinct would say the prop valve needs to be adjusted. 1/4 seems like plenty of line to run the backs.
        ive tried the adjustable in 5 different places with the same results




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        • #5
          Well turning the rotor is a problem but remember the backs are only supplement to front brakes. Front brakes do most of the work, but you shouldn't be able to turn the rotor. When bleeding you bled the farthest first correct? So Passenger Rear, Driver Rear, Passenger Front, Driver Front.
          Originally posted by Yoshi94
          Mines about an inch bigger than Kyles. I need to get one of those
          Originally posted by ryanwarby01
          Put it this way, if you have a money tree a LT1 is a wood chipper!
          sigpic

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Fox Slaughter View Post
            Well turning the rotor is a problem but remember the backs are only supplement to front brakes. Front brakes do most of the work, but you shouldn't be able to turn the rotor. When bleeding you bled the farthest first correct? So Passenger Rear, Driver Rear, Passenger Front, Driver Front.
            well it's kindof 100% opposite on a turbo drag car. you need those rear brakes to hold on for dear life while you foot brake the car into the staging lights before you plop the trans brake button. (thus why aerospace, and i'm sure others, make dual rear caliper kits to hold the car while you're brake boosting it up)

            as for why thy ninja rears don't work....I dunno
            1998 Camaro SS Bullseye Turbo
            2002 F-250 7.3 Leveled on 20s with 35's
            2006 Yamaha R6 50th Anniversary
            http://www.mifbody.com/vbulletin/sho...-Update/page11

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            • #7
              i agree with Michael. or maybe it could just be a faulty proportioning valve?
              98 z28, m6, monster clutch, eibach pro kit, custom twin turbo setup, 317 heads, z06 valve springs, arp rod bolts, 512rwhp at 10lbs. cobra eater

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              • #8
                Originally posted by SS4Matt View Post
                well it's kindof 100% opposite on a turbo drag car. you need those rear brakes to hold on for dear life while you foot brake the car into the staging lights before you plop the trans brake button. (thus why aerospace, and i'm sure others, make dual rear caliper kits to hold the car while you're brake boosting it up)

                as for why thy ninja rears don't work....I dunno
                Now is that for auto and manual? How exactly do you built boost, while staging. I know being in neutral won't you need load on the engine. Do you put it in gear, hold the brake and just start revving and it will build boost?
                Originally posted by Yoshi94
                Mines about an inch bigger than Kyles. I need to get one of those
                Originally posted by ryanwarby01
                Put it this way, if you have a money tree a LT1 is a wood chipper!
                sigpic

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Fox Slaughter View Post
                  Now is that for auto and manual? How exactly do you built boost, while staging. I know being in neutral won't you need load on the engine. Do you put it in gear, hold the brake and just start revving and it will build boost?
                  Auto, stalling up the converter against the brakes...or popping off of a 2-step dipping fuel

                  Used to own a Firebird.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Fbomb View Post
                    Auto, stalling up the converter against the brakes...or popping off of a 2-step dipping fuel
                    How would you do it on a manual?

                    Sorry about the /Thread Jack
                    Originally posted by Yoshi94
                    Mines about an inch bigger than Kyles. I need to get one of those
                    Originally posted by ryanwarby01
                    Put it this way, if you have a money tree a LT1 is a wood chipper!
                    sigpic

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by SS4Matt View Post
                      well it's kindof 100% opposite on a turbo drag car. you need those rear brakes to hold on for dear life while you foot brake the car into the staging lights before you plop the trans brake button. (thus why aerospace, and i'm sure others, make dual rear caliper kits to hold the car while you're brake boosting it up)

                      as for why thy ninja rears don't work....I dunno
                      fact.. i just got off the phone with jeff and he said its normal for it to do that until i can start the car and let it run and build a good amount of vacuum.. so we try that next




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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Fox Slaughter View Post
                        Now is that for auto and manual? How exactly do you built boost, while staging. I know being in neutral won't you need load on the engine. Do you put it in gear, hold the brake and just start revving and it will build boost?
                        Auto. Yes while in 1st you literally brake torque the car. you will use your gas pedal to "push" the car through the brakes to hit the second stage bulb and then hit the trans brake and let off the foot brake
                        Originally posted by Fbomb View Post
                        Auto, stalling up the converter against the brakes...or popping off of a 2-step dipping fuel
                        you need to build some boost before/as you light up the first stage bulb. as soon as the second stage bulb lights off you grab the trans brake and put your go pedal to the floor boards! Two step is wired onto the trans brake switch, so the two step will not turn on until you're on the Trans brake!
                        Originally posted by Fox Slaughter View Post
                        How would you do it on a manual?

                        Sorry about the /Thread Jack
                        I'm not sure why people "drag race" a manual, other than just to prove a point. I think those peeps just use a two step and hope it comes up fast enough?
                        1998 Camaro SS Bullseye Turbo
                        2002 F-250 7.3 Leveled on 20s with 35's
                        2006 Yamaha R6 50th Anniversary
                        http://www.mifbody.com/vbulletin/sho...-Update/page11

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