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  • #31
    Originally posted by 1BADAIR View Post
    richard.
    thats one reason why a decent size cam for the cubes and larger turbos were used to limit cylinder pressure down low.
    They were hitting the dyno around 4800. someone messed up and loaded it at 3300 or so and the cylinder pressure killed it.
    Richard is working on a 5.3 now. wait til you see what it makes. Wiseco just released its junkyard dog series of pistons for 4.8, 5.3 and 6.0 just for this type of build
    i was just surprised to hear that. i know what you mean i just never heard they blew it till after they where done playin. lol

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    • #32
      I'm still trying to get my old man to boost the 5.3 for the 60 Impala

      1998 Camaro Z28 - Bright Red, 6.0 TR224, 4l60e, 3.42 Eaton TrueTrac
      1989 Camaro IROC-Z Convertible - 355 big tube TPI, WC T5, 3.42 Zexel Torsen, CTS-V/C4 brakes
      1955 Bel Air 2 Door Post - 357 TPI, Muncie M20, 4 wheel disc

      2006 Saab 9-7x 5.3i Daily Driver

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      • #33
        i have some little turbos. i think they are 60a/r is what they say? not sure.. right now my car builds full boost at 3800 or 4k rpms. seems way too late for me. my friends dad said he would sell me his 5.3 motor with a lifter tick for 200. all's i need is the short block. wat do you guys think?
        98 z28, m6, monster clutch, eibach pro kit, custom twin turbo setup, 317 heads, z06 valve springs, arp rod bolts, 512rwhp at 10lbs. cobra eater

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        • #34
          Originally posted by Gaspo View Post
          i have some little turbos. i think they are 60a/r is what they say? not sure.. right now my car builds full boost at 3800 or 4k rpms. seems way too late for me. my friends dad said he would sell me his 5.3 motor with a lifter tick for 200. all's i need is the short block. wat do you guys think?
          .60 A/R sounds about right. make sure that engine has a lifter tick some how. i just did 2 5.3l truck/suv swaps that had bad wrist pins. there also known for spun bearings. the L33 where the best to get. your turbos should come in at about 3000-3200rpms idealy for a street car. you could have a leak in the system. those A/R numbers are alittle on the small side. i will go home and do some math and let you know tomorrow.

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          • #35
            Originally posted by sniperperformance View Post
            .60 A/R sounds about right. make sure that engine has a lifter tick some how. i just did 2 5.3l truck/suv swaps that had bad wrist pins. there also known for spun bearings. the L33 where the best to get. your turbos should come in at about 3000-3200rpms idealy for a street car. you could have a leak in the system. those A/R numbers are alittle on the small side. i will go home and do some math and let you know tomorrow.
            how can i look into that? the motor is out of the truck. ya, it seems like it should spool faster. my vacuum at idle is 18. i can look for a leak again. its been like that since i put this system on.
            98 z28, m6, monster clutch, eibach pro kit, custom twin turbo setup, 317 heads, z06 valve springs, arp rod bolts, 512rwhp at 10lbs. cobra eater

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            • #36
              Boost leak check. You cap off at the turbo discharge and pressurize yur cold pipes with like 10 PSI. Then spray soapy water on the connections looking for bubbles
              -08 G8 GT DD: Rotofab CAI, HID's, Breyton Race GTS'
              -86 Iroc Project: LQ4, Th400, S400, Ford 9"

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              • #37
                451 hp na!!!!!
                1998 Chevrolet Camaro Z28 - 6 Speed

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                • #38
                  Originally posted by Gaspo View Post
                  how can i look into that? the motor is out of the truck. ya, it seems like it should spool faster. my vacuum at idle is 18. i can look for a leak again. its been like that since i put this system on.

                  well i guess what im sayin is be prepared. mybe put some new gaskets in it. im sure your planning on checking the lifters/ replacing them. the vacume leak being at 18 kinda throws a light alarm is the motor cam'd.

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                  • #39
                    My dad's friend has been able to get ~ 2000hp out of those boosted LSXs





                    Link to his site

                    http://www.thomsonautomotive.com/index.html
                    sigpic

                    1996 Base Model
                    +2 cylinder mod

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                    • #40
                      the lsx block needs alot of work to handle that. the RHS block costs more but ends up costing the same when all work is done

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                      • #41
                        i'll check my car for boost leaks. my car is not camd. bottom end is stock besides arp rod bolts. i thought 18 was perfect at idle? if i buy that 5.3l i was planning on stripping it down to the short block, selling what i can, and putting my heads/intake etc on it. do rod bolts while its out and maybe a cam, depending on how much money i have.
                        98 z28, m6, monster clutch, eibach pro kit, custom twin turbo setup, 317 heads, z06 valve springs, arp rod bolts, 512rwhp at 10lbs. cobra eater

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                        • #42
                          Originally posted by Gaspo View Post
                          i'll check my car for boost leaks. my car is not camd. bottom end is stock besides arp rod bolts. i thought 18 was perfect at idle? if i buy that 5.3l i was planning on stripping it down to the short block, selling what i can, and putting my heads/intake etc on it. do rod bolts while its out and maybe a cam, depending on how much money i have.
                          usually 20 is the perfect mark on most cars and truck the have not been modified.

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                          • #43
                            Originally posted by sniperperformance View Post
                            usually 20 is the perfect mark on most cars and truck the have not been modified.
                            gotcha..
                            98 z28, m6, monster clutch, eibach pro kit, custom twin turbo setup, 317 heads, z06 valve springs, arp rod bolts, 512rwhp at 10lbs. cobra eater

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                            • #44
                              Originally posted by Gaspo View Post
                              i have some little turbos. i think they are 60a/r is what they say? not sure.. right now my car builds full boost at 3800 or 4k rpms. seems way too late for me. my friends dad said he would sell me his 5.3 motor with a lifter tick for 200. all's i need is the short block. wat do you guys think?
                              See what year it is. The 99's had a notch in the head and composite head gaskets. If its an early motor, its probably sludged up from a bad head gasket like mine was that's causing the lifter tick.
                              Look for something 2001-2002. Those have the MLS gaskets (Which is what you want)

                              To use the MLS gaskets on the early 5.3's you'll have to replace the heads without the notch otherwise it has the potential to leak like a Mofo.
                              Last edited by TrickyTransAm; February 27th, 2012, 10:18 PM.

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                              • #45
                                Originally posted by TrickyTransAm View Post
                                See what year it is. The 99's had a notch in the head and composite head gaskets. If its an early motor, its probably sludged up from a bad head gasket like mine was that's causing the lifter tick.
                                Look for something 2001-2002. Those have the MLS gaskets (Which is what you want)

                                To use the MLS gaskets on the early 5.3's you'll have to replace the heads without the notch otherwise it has the potential to leak like a Mofo.
                                i plan on using my 317's that i have on my ls1 right now. using the MLS gaskets.
                                98 z28, m6, monster clutch, eibach pro kit, custom twin turbo setup, 317 heads, z06 valve springs, arp rod bolts, 512rwhp at 10lbs. cobra eater

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