Best place to buy short/long block lt1?

[jetice]

Where would the best place be to get a LT1 short or long block, or even just a block, be? Looking to make a high-revving N/A, larger than 350ci engine. Have read a couple guys on tech recommend Dart Little-M and World Motown blocks, but those require a lot of modification to work with an lt1, don't they? I have also read into sleeving stock blocks to allow for more bore, but it seems like not a whole lot of people are into that idea. I know I would be money ahead just to buy a complete long block, but I want to do this myself. Thanks

[bri2203]

Craigslist

I have bought a complete aluminum headed LT1s for 300 with exhaust manifolds.

[DETROITMUSCLE]

find a 4 bolt LT1 block?

[my95z28]

Joel?

[Darren]

Joel?

Joel sold his.

[birdie2000]

I'm a little confused by your original post... are you looking for a stock short/long block, or an upgraded, already built one?

As for blocks, you're pretty much stuck with the factory LT1 block. As mentioned the corvette & LT4 blocks are factory straight 4-bolt main caps and are slightly more desirable to some people vs. a splayed 4-bolt conversion. If you're thinking about aftermarket blocks you might as well just keep everything SBC and run aftermarket EFI or an LS1 24x pcm conversion.

Depending what the intended usage is, there are a couple builders out there who have done 400+ cubic inch LT1 blocks, but honestly I'd just stick with a standard 383/396 or even a 355 if it fits your needs. Over-complicating things just leads to expense and headaches, so unless you're willing to deal with those I'd just KISS (keep it simple stupid). You can do a LOT with a relatively simple setup on these engines. A top-end package that can reliably support 400-430rwhp with a relatively stock shortblock is just a phone call away.

[Gaspo]

i was looking for a complete long block to put in a customers car. i found 3 at Spragues junk yard in muskegon. they are all out of caprice's or road masters tho, so they have the iron heads i believe. they wanted 500 for them. all had wiring harness and one had computer as well. they were grimy tho. i passed lol

[JoeliusZ28]

Yep i sold mine. Ill find another after i get a house.

[masterfab]

I'm a little confused by your original post... are you looking for a stock short/long block, or an upgraded, already built one?

As for blocks, you're pretty much stuck with the factory LT1 block. As mentioned the corvette & LT4 blocks are factory straight 4-bolt main caps and are slightly more desirable to some people vs. a splayed 4-bolt conversion. If you're thinking about aftermarket blocks you might as well just keep everything SBC and run aftermarket EFI or an LS1 24x pcm conversion.

Depending what the intended usage is, there are a couple builders out there who have done 400+ cubic inch LT1 blocks, but honestly I'd just stick with a standard 383/396 or even a 355 if it fits your needs. Over-complicating things just leads to expense and headaches, so unless you're willing to deal with those I'd just KISS (keep it simple stupid). You can do a LOT with a relatively simple setup on these engines. A top-end package that can reliably support 400-430rwhp with a relatively stock shortblock is just a phone call away.

Birdie is right there is no after market lt-1. only Gen1 and ls. if that the plan stick with a gen 1 engine and go with a F.A.S.T. setup. that will open a world of go fast parts up.

Where would the best place be to get a LT1 short or long block, or even just a block, be? Looking to make a high-revving N/A, larger than 350ci engine. Have read a couple guys on tech recommend Dart Little-M and World Motown blocks, but those require a lot of modification to work with an lt1, don't they? I have also read into sleeving stock blocks to allow for more bore, but it seems like not a whole lot of people are into that idea. I know I would be money ahead just to buy a complete long block, but I want to do this myself. Thanks

Jetice, your best bet is if your going to keep the LT-1 is to find a 2 bolt main, get it cryo'd 1st then mill it for slay'd 4-bolt make sure to run a stud girdle to keep the main web in check. Lunati still makes cranks for these motors. and run a efi connection 24x system for better tuning. and yes make sure the sleeve the block. you will have a pretty strong block. contact bullit racing cams for your custom grind they will give you the royal hook-up. hope that helps.

[JoeliusZ28]

If you can find a factory 4 bolt block go with it. It is stronger than a splayed block. A two bolt main isnt going to break but it will stretch amd let the bearings walk more = greater liklihood of a spun bearing.

[masterfab]

If you can find a factory 4 bolt block go with it. It is stronger than a splayed block. A two bolt main isnt going to break but it will stretch amd let the bearings walk more = greater liklihood of a spun bearing.

never had an issue with my 9.50 S-10 truck running that way nore has anyone at places like the LTX shoot out. of course i had dowl'd mains to but splay'd caps and stud girdle's take care of walk while the 4 bolt main webs iv seen break under load ocasionally. i respect your opinion though. and if you see it differant please teach. we built a couple of these motor at wyotech as dyno mule's and spun the living h*ll out of them. never seen a issue. other than the opti.

[Lucky SOB]

never had an issue with my 9.50 S-10 truck running that way nore has anyone at places like the LTX shoot out. of course i had dowl'd mains to but splay'd caps and stud girdle's take care of walk while the 4 bolt main webs iv seen break under load ocasionally. i respect your opinion though. and if you see it differant please teach. we built a couple of these motor at wyotech as dyno mule's and spun the living h*ll out of them. never seen a issue. other than the opti.

Interesting... now that you mention it though, it makes sense. The caps are not evenly loaded around the revolution of the connecting rod main. It would make sense to have splayed bolts resisting the forces better than just when the piston is a TDC...

[JoeliusZ28]

never had an issue with my 9.50 S-10 truck running that way nore has anyone at places like the LTX shoot out. of course i had dowl'd mains to but splay'd caps and stud girdle's take care of walk while the 4 bolt main webs iv seen break under load ocasionally. i respect your opinion though. and if you see it differant please teach. we built a couple of these motor at wyotech as dyno mule's and spun the living h*ll out of them. never seen a issue. other than the opti.

I had posted a thread about it on ls1tech a long time ago. The end result of it was a bunch of childish arguing with no solid facts from either side, and a couple experienced engine builders sending me private messages with their experiences favoring the 4 bolt block. Illl see if i can dig it up later if i still have any of it in my inbox. Im on my phone right now. The advantages i recall were all in the bearing lifespan in very high rpm applications. They maintained their bearing life better... And such is what ive been planning on building: a solid roller 327 road race engine. Either way though, the difference is going to be neglible im just OCD by nature when it comes to details. I have read from numerous sources that the problem with splayed caps is that you are tapping into a part of the block that wasnt designed to be load bearing, and it can actually end up causing cracks and therefore problems. The splayed main cap per laws of physics would be the best if the foundations were equal, like fred just explained. I take it all with a grain of salt though, you wont see me screaming bloody murder if someone decides to do a splayed setup.

[birdie2000]

I have read from numerous sources that the problem with splayed caps is that you are tapping into a part of the block that wasnt designed to be load bearing, and it can actually end up causing cracks and therefore problems. The splayed main cap per laws of physics would be the best if the foundations were equal, like fred just explained.

Yeah, I remember reading the same thing a long time ago. I believe the first I heard about it was from Injuneer on Camaroz28.com in reference to George Baxter's car. Obviously it's not gospel, but I do tend to listen to stuff from the shop that built a blown convertible LT1 f-body that was knocking on the door of an 8 second slip 9-10 years ago at damn near full weight. I remember him passing on some other knowledge he gained from the shop that built the car that goes slightly against the grain but was obviously successful, there was some really good info on that board back in its heyday.

It wouldn't stop me from building a splayed 4-bolt LT1 (which actually I currently own), but if I were starting from scratch on a max-effort I would probably hold out for a factory 4-bolt block or do a straight 4-bolt conversion "just in case". If nothing else, I don't really see the harm in going straight over splayed in these blocks.

[masterfab]

I had posted a thread about it on ls1tech a long time ago. The end result of it was a bunch of childish arguing with no solid facts from either side, and a couple experienced engine builders sending me private messages with their experiences favoring the 4 bolt block. Illl see if i can dig it up later if i still have any of it in my inbox. Im on my phone right now. The advantages i recall were all in the bearing lifespan in very high rpm applications. They maintained their bearing life better... And such is what ive been planning on building: a solid roller 327 road race engine. Either way though, the difference is going to be neglible im just OCD by nature when it comes to details. I have read from numerous sources that the problem with splayed caps is that you are tapping into a part of the block that wasnt designed to be load bearing, and it can actually end up causing cracks and therefore problems. The splayed main cap per laws of physics would be the best if the foundations were equal, like fred just explained. I take it all with a grain of salt though, you wont see me screaming bloody murder if someone decides to do a splayed setup.

i would love to read that thread even with my background im always up to learn new thing and always open to change. i listen to everyone opinions and i understand the situation here where the end builders would argue back and fourth till the end of time.

Yeah, I remember reading the same thing a long time ago. I believe the first I heard about it was from Injuneer on Camaroz28.com in reference to George Baxter's car. Obviously it's not gospel, but I do tend to listen to stuff from the shop that built a blown convertible LT1 f-body that was knocking on the door of an 8 second slip 9-10 years ago at damn near full weight. I remember him passing on some other knowledge he gained from the shop that built the car that goes slightly against the grain but was obviously successful, there was some really good info on that board back in its heyday.

It wouldn't stop me from building a splayed 4-bolt LT1 (which actually I currently own), but if I were starting from scratch on a max-effort I would probably hold out for a factory 4-bolt block or do a straight 4-bolt conversion "just in case". If nothing else, I don't really see the harm in going straight over splayed in these blocks.

all in all im sure they both have there benifits. as i see it, it comes down to preferance. anytime i build a high reving engine i always dowl the main bearings. but main webs your kinda stuck withwhat they are. lol. i really feel mifbody needs a tech section that is lt1/ls1/gen1 to fill with stickys.


Merry christmas guys