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Did I see that your engine has 170K ??? You may (will) need to do more than just heads.
I have a complete LT1 cam, ported big valve heads, ported intake, 58mm throttle body and more complete with harness and PCM for you. Right around 2000 miles and 6 to 8 1/4 miles passes.
$2000
Last edited by gary; January 31st, 2011, 07:03 AM.
97 30th anv Z28 Lt1 Ported Heads and Intake, small Cam, LT's, SLP LM1 w/power flow conversion and cut out, Stalled A4, 3.73, 125 shot or so......... Custom EVI Tune and more to come...... SOLD
1971 Suburban work in progress
1969 Mach 1 In restoration process
Waiting to find the right Fbody
I can accomplish that for around $500 + cost of gaskets, lifters, and moly pushrods. Assuming the cam that was on here last week is still available, and I'm buying the heads that were originally on the motor that cam came out of. . . Plenty of money leftover to start looking for a good deal on a T56 swap.
sounds like a cam swap it is! i would strongly recommend some type of cam over head work on a stock motor
Did I see that your engine has 170K ??? You may (will) need to do more than just heads.
I have a complete LT1 cam, ported big valve heads, ported intake, 58mm throttle body and more complete with harness and PCM for you. Right around 2000 miles and 6 to 8 1/4 miles passes.
$2000
I don't understand why everyone says you NEED to buy all of this stuff if you going to install a cam.
It is recommended but you do not NEED to buy roller rockers, new pushrods, or lifters(depending on miles)
you are mistaken. You do NEED to buy all that stuff if you are going to put anything other than basically a hot cam in the car. Chromoly pushrods are absolutely a must, and would you trust his 170k mile lifters to more rpm and higher spring pressure and more abuse? good luck setting lash with the stock rockers, most cams that are worthwhile require 1.6 rockers.
Maybe you just need to clarify your post and say if you are hotcamming the car its not needed. But with all due respect, what you said is bad info and it will lead someone in the wrong direction if they are doing a larger cam.
All those components are ABSOLUTELY necessary for cams other than the hotcam
Last edited by ThreeHonks; January 31st, 2011, 08:45 AM.
So go ahead nate and brian, slap a cam in your motors without any of these NECESSARY parts and let me know how it holds up. be sure to report back with some pics of the carnage!
Last edited by ThreeHonks; January 31st, 2011, 08:49 AM.
you are mistaken. You do NEED to buy all that stuff if you are going to put anything other than basically a hot cam in the car. Chromoly pushrods are absolutely a must, and would you trust his 170k mile lifters to more rpm and higher spring pressure and more abuse? good luck setting lash with the stock rockers, most cams that are worthwhile require 1.6 rockers.
Maybe you just need to clarify your post and say if you are hotcamming the car its not needed. But with all due respect, what you said is bad info and it will lead someone in the wrong direction if they are doing a larger cam.
All those components are ABSOLUTELY necessary for cams other than the hotcam
So go ahead nate and brian, slap a cam in your motors without any of these NECESSARY parts and let me know how it holds up. be sure to report back with some pics of the carnage!
I am not going to comment, every situation is different as you should mention. I do not want turn this into a debate. It seems like your are already getting worked up about it.
Nick-
IMO call the cam company making the cam and let them tell you what to buy. They designed a package that works well together and should produce the best results.
Last edited by bri2203; January 31st, 2011, 09:48 AM.
Im not worked up about it, just trying to stop the spreading of poor information. It is absolutely necessary to buy those upgraded vavletrains parts. Even an older cam on a less aggressive profile like a cc503 or cc306 needs guideplates and and upgraded valvetrain.
There is also power to be gained with a properly setup vavletrain. A lot of LT1 owners have that mindset that they dont need certain things, and they cheap out causing those cars run like garbage, hence a big reason why LT1's have such a crap name. I have seen PLENTY of stockish or slight bolt on LS1 cars rape a "cam only" LT1. These are the same people who chose to cheap out on their build, and IMO they deserve it. Do you think Joels car made the power he did (370rwhp) by cheaping out of things. No. He has a great valvetrain and assemebled it all correctly as well.
Last edited by ThreeHonks; January 31st, 2011, 11:05 AM.
I am not going to comment, every situation is different as you should mention. I do not want turn this into a debate. It seems like your are already getting worked up about it.
Nick-
IMO call the cam company making the cam and let them tell you what to buy. They designed a package that works well together and should produce the best results.
Can't afford to go that route, I'd be spending $1200+ just on heads and cam, not to mention taxes (if applicable) and shipping. I can pick up a used hotcam here, used (but rebuilt w/ valve job) heads here, and buy the other stuff I need to make it happen, and I'll still come in under $1500. That means I'm not getting the T56 car, and spending my whole budget on parts for the cam swap.
I NEVER said I was going to use the stock lifters. I'm replacing EVERYTHING I take out of this motor with something that, at the VERY least, doesn't have 170k miles on it. I've heard that hardened stock pushrods will work fine with a Hotcam, so I will likely start looking for those, or moly pushrods. New lifters are in order as well, I think. 1.6RR's would be nice, even 1.7's if I can find a deal on them, but point is, the stock parts are not going back on. I'm not one to half-ass something this important, I don't want to be tearing the motor apart AGAIN to fix a mistake I made this time around.
SO FAR, it looks like I'll need (in addition to the heads and cam):
Hardened/Moly Pushrods
Lifters
Rocker Arms
Tune
top end gasket kit
As well as the normal consumables to get it running again after the work is done.
In all honesty, I was contemplating looking at the "parts car", because from what the seller told me over the phone last night, it's in really good shape, with the exception of the passenger side quarter panel and the passenger rocker panel, he spun it around and put it into a ditch. I've replaced rockers and quarter panels before, and if it's something I could save, I was thinking of fixing it, keeping it, and getting the Formula running so I can sell it. That would really just involve the new heads I mentioned and a set of gaskets.
Of course I'd be pulling all the upgraded parts off the '93 to put on the '94 (headers, line lock, exhaust, stereo, seats, etc.), and selling the '93 stock, but the '94 has more that I'm interested in: It's still an OBDI car, so I have the cables and everything for datalogging, but it doesn't require a PROM chip replacement to tune it, that can all be done from a laptop right in the car, which I'm already equipped to handle. It also has the MAF setup as opposed to Speed Density, which means I can actually buy a cold air intake for it that works, as opposed to making something work. It's already a 6-speed T-Top car, which is what I've wanted since my '94 V6 5-speed T-Top car died, and it's got 113k miles, nearly 60k less than the '93. It runs and is drivable, and if I can get it from him for $1500 after I get my tax refund (should be here on the 11th), I'm going to pick it up, and I'll sell my AR15 to buy heads for the '93. Heck, even $1700 isn't bad for a car that I'm going to end up saving, but I'm going to try to talk him down just a little more.
I'll post pics of said Z28 as soon as I get them. . . It would be, for all intents and purposes, an upgrade from the Formula. From what I've been told, this thing was nearly spotless before the accident, but the damage was going to cost him about $3400 to have repaired. Lucky for me, I know how to do all of that work, and I'm equipped to handle it in the garage at home. Like I said, once I get pictures, I'll share with you guys to get opinions. I should be going to see it and test drive it Wednesday.
Last edited by 93formulalt1; January 31st, 2011, 11:11 AM.
Nick, my points are being made for cams other than the hotcam. Hot cam can use a lot of the stock stuff. (but it is actually designed for a 1.6 rocker). Hot cam is a whole different ball game, its designed as almost a stock replacement cam with a little oompf
I wouldn't half-ass on parts either. If you want to build it up, save your money and do it right. Hot cam isn't worth the work IMO, would rather have something more radical. Besides that, I would do a torque converter first if I were you.
I wouldn't half-ass on parts either. If you want to build it up, save your money and do it right. Hot cam isn't worth the work IMO, would rather have something more radical. Besides that, I would do a torque converter first if I were you.
Read my last post again, I was "ninja editing" while you were replying.
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