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well it was only for a second and they had it out before it spread anywhere. but my problem is i have a cut in the fuel line. and i cant find a factory replacement for it. i tried to put a peice of metal fuel line into both ends and clamp it but it didnt work. so i went and bought "unions for nylon fuel line" and hoping this works. if not i think i might have to replace the entire section of line. does anyone know where i can find that? its teh peice where a set of SFC would weld to on the drivers side.
thanks.
HISTORY OF CARS PAST AND PRESANT (none of them were wrecked)
1989 S10 standard with 350 carb'd, th350, shift kit, shorties, 600cfm, hooker TD's, 3.23 non posi, B&M shifter(sold)
1991 firebird with t-tops and 3.1L, 700r4, 3.23 non posi, flowmaster cat back, 15ibs injectors, (sold)
1991 formula with t-tops, WS6, 5.0TPI, WC T5. 3.42 posi. magnaflow cat back, 52mm TB, and hurst billet (sold)
1994 camaro z28 with t-tops, 5.7LT1, T56, 3.42 posi. CAI, elbow, Airfoil, SFC, STB, pro 5.0, flowmaster cat back. (sold)
2000 Trans am with t-tops, 5.7LS1, T56, 3.42posi, LT'S, ORY, magnaflow, lid, lingenfelter intake, 3pt SFC, STB, LCA, (current)
Dorman makes specific fuel line repair kits for this line. They work great. You simply heat them up with a hair dryer or heat gun, then slip them over your joint. As it cools, it compresses down on the line and seals up. I would cut the line, heat it with a heat gun (no sparks) insert a Dorman double ended barb, and then let the lines cool to shrink on the union.
Most auto parts places will have these O'Riley's, Napa, Car-Quest, Valley Automotive, etc. I doubt Autozone or Advanced will be able to help you - they generally are daft.
If its a real parts place, they'll have the Dorman kit behind the counter and sell you what you need to do it right.
the union i got is barbed on both ends. i thought they mad a shrink wrap or something like that. i just cant find it. and theres only autozone or advanced auto around base here.
its not really that bad. theers just alot of black burnt powder and this weird tan color powder that they used to put out the fire. but it got in my interior b/c my windows were down. but there paying for everything. so i just gotta wait till they fix it.
HISTORY OF CARS PAST AND PRESANT (none of them were wrecked)
1989 S10 standard with 350 carb'd, th350, shift kit, shorties, 600cfm, hooker TD's, 3.23 non posi, B&M shifter(sold)
1991 firebird with t-tops and 3.1L, 700r4, 3.23 non posi, flowmaster cat back, 15ibs injectors, (sold)
1991 formula with t-tops, WS6, 5.0TPI, WC T5. 3.42 posi. magnaflow cat back, 52mm TB, and hurst billet (sold)
1994 camaro z28 with t-tops, 5.7LT1, T56, 3.42 posi. CAI, elbow, Airfoil, SFC, STB, pro 5.0, flowmaster cat back. (sold)
2000 Trans am with t-tops, 5.7LS1, T56, 3.42posi, LT'S, ORY, magnaflow, lid, lingenfelter intake, 3pt SFC, STB, LCA, (current)
Dorman makes specific fuel line repair kits for this line. They work great. You simply heat them up with a hair dryer or heat gun, then slip them over your joint. As it cools, it compresses down on the line and seals up. I would cut the line, heat it with a heat gun (no sparks) insert a Dorman double ended barb, and then let the lines cool to shrink on the union.
Most auto parts places will have these O'Riley's, Napa, Car-Quest, Valley Automotive, etc. I doubt Autozone or Advanced will be able to help you - they generally are daft.
If its a real parts place, they'll have the Dorman kit behind the counter and sell you what you need to do it right.
So, since I work at Autozone, I'm daft, and I don't know anything about the fuel line repair kits? Ok. . . lmao (I know you were just making a generalization, I was just being a PITA)
That's the way to go, it's definitely a lot easier than replacing the entire fuel line.
So, since I work at Autozone, I'm daft, and I don't know anything about the fuel line repair kits? Ok. . . lmao (I know you were just making a generalization, I was just being a PITA)
Yea... that's one thing with me - don't take me totally serious. I'm known for making wide sweeping generalizations.
It's not all for sure, but the car guy breed is getting more and more rare, you have to admit.
No, Scout - that is a replacement end quick disconnect that would normally snap onto either the fuel filter, or your fuel rail.
I called my local Car-Quest and all they carry was a male double barb by Dorman that is rated for fuel systems.
If that's what you currently have and its rated for fuel, then read on:
So, you'd need to heat the line gently and carefully, slip the barb in each side, and let it cool to clamp down on the fitting. Work fast, it cools quick.
(Use a hair dryer or a heat gun that doesn't have any potential of spark/flame. Try to dry out as much of the line of fuel that you can and let the area clear of fumes)
It may be helpful to take a small piece into the parts store so they get the right diameter barb. It will fit tight when cold.
well i got my car back. i used a double barb 3/8 fitting and heated with a heat gun and then clamped both sides just snug with 2 clamps. so far no leaks but ill no for sure sunday when i take it back to get my connectors finished welded.
ALL FREE!!!
HISTORY OF CARS PAST AND PRESANT (none of them were wrecked)
1989 S10 standard with 350 carb'd, th350, shift kit, shorties, 600cfm, hooker TD's, 3.23 non posi, B&M shifter(sold)
1991 firebird with t-tops and 3.1L, 700r4, 3.23 non posi, flowmaster cat back, 15ibs injectors, (sold)
1991 formula with t-tops, WS6, 5.0TPI, WC T5. 3.42 posi. magnaflow cat back, 52mm TB, and hurst billet (sold)
1994 camaro z28 with t-tops, 5.7LT1, T56, 3.42 posi. CAI, elbow, Airfoil, SFC, STB, pro 5.0, flowmaster cat back. (sold)
2000 Trans am with t-tops, 5.7LS1, T56, 3.42posi, LT'S, ORY, magnaflow, lid, lingenfelter intake, 3pt SFC, STB, LCA, (current)
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