<Project> 2000 Trans Am

[mikewoods]

Lookin' good Fred!

[Lucky SOB]

Went to see my transmission tonight to understand what parts I need to order. Looks like I'll be getting a steel 3-4 shift fork with bronze guides and a basic rebuild kit just as a safety measure. Should be ready to be picked up the middle of next week.

[Lucky SOB]

Stuck Crank Bolt

As some of you may know, I am working on a cam/heads swap on my 2000 LS1.

I was following the ls1howto.com instructions on reinstalling the harmonic balancer and they say to use a longer bolt to pull the balancer back on. So I got a longer ARP bolt for an LS7 and started to do so. I wasn't using much torque at all and the balancer was pulling on nice and easy. I got it about an inch onto the snout and it stopped turning. I figured I had bottomed out the longer bolt so I went to back it out and it wouldn't budge. Upgraded to a breaker bar and still nothing... eventually got up to a breaker bar with a jack handle on it and it still won't budge.

After doing some reading it appears this method is not recommended and that there is a special balancer installation tool (which I will use after I fix this issue).

Anyone ever ran into this? And how did you get the bolt out?

Last resort here will be to pull the crank and have the bolt machined out if I can't get the bolt out... and I really don't feel like doing that if I don't have to.

Thanks in advance!

[Lucky SOB]

[MENTION=519]1BADAIR[/MENTION]

[Nocooler]

That sucks dude.

This is one of those - do I he-man it, torch it, etc. The ARP bolt is going to be a ***** to try and drill.

All you need is all thread a couple nuts and some washers to install the balancer.

I'd be tempted to heat the snout and then brute force it - but I don't know if the heat would hurt the crank.

Larry would know the tricks.

[Lucky SOB]

Yeah... Tough situation. Luckily engine is out of the car and on a stand.

The best plan I have so far was my cousin's idea. Weld something to an impact socket for a breaker bar to hook onto. Then hit it with an impact. The combination of a steady 150ft lbs and a good impact might free it up. Might use a couple hundred degrees of heat. My concern is more the balancer than the crank as far as heating goes.

[1BADAIR]

Hmm. Hard to say. I have used longer stock ls7 bolts(softer) to do it. But only for the first inch or so.
If it bottomed out it rolled the threads. It may take all the threads on the way out.
I forgot who fixed it but long ago I had to remove an engine for a guy that tried to torque an arp to stock specs and broke it. Had to be drilled out .

[sman]

That sucks Fred

FYI the AutoZone installer isn't long enough to install correctly, unless they changed it in the last few years.

[1BADAIR]

Most of the installers aren't the right thread or the bolt don't reach the threaded part of the crank

[Lucky SOB]

I have to believe it's only on an inch. The back of the balancer sleeve is about 1/8" shy of the timing cover seal.

I guess we'll see about the threads when it comes out... Just need to get it out. Really wish I would have put some some of the high pressure lube I used on the head bolts, on this bolt. I think I might be dealing with the bolt trying to cut threads into the crank snout and the crank threads trying to cut threads into the bolt shank.

Thanks for the insight guys - can't believe this thing is so stuck with me putting such little torque on it.

[DanDalessandro]

You try a pipe for more leverage? Same thing happened to me but on something completely different. Ended up using a long pipe to help turn it out.

[Lucky SOB]

Yes had a 4' jack handle on a breaker bar and it was just bending the breaker bar.

[pnyklr]

idk if this would work. .... impact driver http://local.sears.com/Craftsman-Imp...x00001xlpla#!/

[pnyklr]

idk tho the more i think about it. im not sure if its a good idea to hit the crank like that..

[Lucky SOB]

Interesting - does it work for a socket head or just Phillips / standard screw heads?