S.Reef's Winter/Spring Project Thread

[s.reef]

I just had Fenton quote me for the bearings..but they are a little bit of a drive. Also when I bring the engine whereever should I pull the covers and remove the valvetrain or will they do this? First timer here.

[DETROITMUSCLE]

Pull everything you can, He (or anyone else I assume) will want pretty much a bare shortblock. Just make sure you keep track of everything you remove and place it all in ziploc bags or the like and also go over the entire motor when you get it back and make sure all the plugs are in place so you don't have a massive leak.

[ITSSLOW]

I just had Fenton quote me for the bearings..but they are a little bit of a drive. Also when I bring the engine whereever should I pull the covers and remove the valvetrain or will they do this? First timer here.

Strip as much as you can. The time you spend in your garage pulling it apart is way cheaper then the time they'll spend pulling it apart. I agree with Jeff and say do cam bearings, main bearings, and ARP studs. You can make some serious power with an stock bottom end with ARP studs.

[DETROITMUSCLE]

I forgot to mention that Dave will probably want to check the rods after the ARP bolts are installed and they may need to be honed and have new bearings as well because the ARPs have better clamping force but as mentioned doing this should yeild a motor that will spin to 7K with no problems.

[s.reef]

thats what i figured. Should I buy the bearings and studs or would they prefer to? coated or no coated cam bearings?

[DETROITMUSCLE]

I would buy the studs but they may be able to get better deals on both, as far as coated or non I have no idea because Dave did all my bearings.

[s.reef]

far enough, thanks for the help!

[MP81]

Well, I just got back from Sam's house.

He finally bought himself a vehicle - and I have to say, he got one hell of a deal for the car.

1986 Monte Carlo SS. Has a full interior, T-tops. The guy he bought it from used it as a drag car, I believe. There's very little rust (what is there seems to be easily fixable).

Sam posted some pics on his Facebook, and I took some more tonight as well.








Here's what I took when I got over there:




Got the rear seat out, in order to get into the trunk to open it (lock is shaved, has an electric popper - but no car battery):




...and this is one of the things we found under the back seat...yeah - it's a half full pistol magazine (looks like .22 cal rounds)


Sam climbed into the trunk and unbolted the trunk popper


The trunk's opened now


The ONLY spot of rust in the trunk was the left side, but should be able to be patched:



Rest of the trunk is solid - those are just flakes of the rusted metal from the area to the left of it


Spare tire well is solid too:


So the only real spots of rust are that are in the trunk, a spot in the floorpan just ahead of the right rear tire, and some in the front area of the t-top, but it all should be fixable. Sam can weld, anything is possible.

GREAT FIND SAM, I can't wait to see where it goes man.

[Joedashredder93]

Nice choice for a project car. Hope all goes well

[ROCKANDYZ28]

awesome project sam!...i love g-bodies also! congratz!

[bri2203]

Nice wheels!!!!

My chevelle was rotten in the same area, It was from where the back window would leak into the trunk. That will be a fun fix.

[s.reef]

Nice wheels!!!!

My chevelle was rotten in the same area, It was from where the back window would leak into the trunk. That will be a fun fix.

Thanks for the wheels Brian. I should be able to patch it pretty easily

[MP81]

Yeah - the rear window surround is solid.

[bri2203]

Thanks for the wheels Brian. I should be able to patch it pretty easily

Yea...you have a couple different options. As long as your not butt welding in a patch you should be happy. Bad memories welding patches to thin metal, and having to metal finish them.

[Bad_Z28]

Sweet find, i'll be watching this thread to see where you take it!