Clutch System Woes - advice please!

[Atrus]

i never liked power bleeding. also, you should be pumping very slow. Did you bench bleed it before installing? you can fold the seal easy is you dont or if you pump fast

You're talking seals in the Master? Would disconnecting the line to check for pressure like I did reveal any issues with that? What are the chances it's the slave that's bad? MC is lifetime warranty, so I can swap it out if it's fairly certain that's the issue.

[SOPES]

Hell if you have a lifetime warranty I would just swap it. The guy I use if I get in a jam is up in goodrich. If you want someone to make it happen and for a reasonable price, Call Dean @ Poppeck Performance, Tell him Mike sent you. His number is 810-636-3350

[Atrus]

Maybe I'll get the MC swapped out. Wife's about to kill me as I am spending a ton of time out in the garage on this thing lately.

I can check with your guy in Goodrich, but that's a bit of a hike for me.

Anyone have a local contact if I decide to just throw in the towel and get this thing looked at by a pro? I don't want to burn up too much additional time not driving the car trying to trace this gremlin down.

[Nocooler]

Kevin - I agree with Larry about the power bleeder. Sometime the old fashioned way is just better.

If you were closer I'd loan you a known good master.

With the speed bleeder it should bleed in 5-10 minutes. Crack the bleeder and push down on the pedal slowly - if it seems to pull air in when you release the pedal, close the bleeder before you release the pedal.

[Atrus]

I am going to try this again - I am not confident that the speed bleeder on the end of the remote line isn't letting air back in. I'll get someone to help me bleed the "traditional" way again. Maybe I can bribe my neighbor with some beer.

One thing I WASN'T doing that I think is incorrect - I wasn't allowing the pedal pumper to do 5-10 pumps before I cracked the bleeder. I was cracking it with every pump. I'll give it another shot.

Thanks again guys. I really appreciate all the help!

[SOPES]

Oh that should make a big difference if you pump it up then crack the bleeder. Sorry I didnt mention anything of that nature sooner Kevin

[Atrus]

Oh that should make a big difference if you pump it up then crack the bleeder. Sorry I didnt mention anything of that nature sooner Kevin

Should have thought of that myself. One of those things I "know" and for whatever reason didn't remember/put into practice. If my remote bleeder reaches far enough, I'll do it on my own, otherwise, I'll try and lure my neighbor over with promises of beer.

[Nocooler]

It should be a one man job with the speed bleeder.

Drop the line down under the car - and pull it out under the door.

I sit on the rocker and pump the pedal with my right hand and work the bleeder with my left hand.

I use a box end wrench on the line and a ratcheting wrench on the fitting.

[Atrus]

I have to ask - how are you holding the line with one wrench, cracking the line open with another wrench, and pushing on the pedal at the same time? Curious, because this could save me some headache and time if you have a good method!

[Nocooler]

put a box end 13mm on the line fitting and set it in your drain pan.

use a 11mm box end ratcheting wring on the the bleeder.

Crack the bleed and then flip the ratchet to tighten, position the 13mm wrench so it holds the line - press the pedal down and hold it and then tighten the bleeder

[Atrus]

Interesting...

So, I got myself all set up to where I can push the pedal on my own and have both hands free to crack the bleeder. Pedal had pressure from last night (just wouldn't disengage the clutch). I pumped it 10 times, pushed it down, and cracked the bleeder. Fluid shot out. Closed the bleeder, let off the pedal. It stuck to the floor. Pulled it up, waited a few seconds for it to refill, pushed it again...and it stuck to the floor. Tried pumping it back and forth by hand, and if I don't pull it back up, it's sticking to the floor.

Seems like maybe it's not grabbing any fluid from the reservoir on it's own. Powerbleeding may force it through. Starting to wonder if the CMC isn't bad - sure, it holds pressure when I disconnect the line and stomp on it because everything after the actual cylinder/seals is good, but if something's jammed up/obstructing the feed to the cylinder, that could cause problems.

Thinking I'll swap out the MC (going to call AZ now), bench bleed it this time, and see if that resolves the problem.

[Nocooler]

Make sure to check the line from the res to the m/c while you have it out.

[Atrus]

Make sure to check the line from the res to the m/c while you have it out.

Will do - the new MC will come with a new reservoir line as well

[SOPES]

is the clutch pedal spring still in one piece ?

[Atrus]

is the clutch pedal spring still in one piece ?

Looks to be.

I am having a helluva time getting this MC out. The reservoir hose seems butted up right against the brake booster. Can't get the "driver's side" of the thing out. I am giving up for the night, will try again this weekend. I think I am going to clearance the holes in the body and in the new MC a little bit so the U bolt has a little more wiggle room. It was pretty tight when I put this MC in, and now I am paying for it!