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  • Trans Knocking.

    My 4L60E makes a pretty hard thud noise right under the console when i accelerate hard or it shifts hard, im thinking its a trans mount. Has anyone had any experience with the energy suspension mounts. I've heard they are super tough but give too much vibration. I can handle a little vibrating but not earthquakes.
    1997 Trans Am
    T56 swap. LS1 Cosmetics

  • #2
    Get a stocker, you aren't making enough power to need a poly. Good rule to follow: The trans mount should never be harder than the motor mounts.

    1998 Camaro Z28 - Bright Red, 6.0 TR224, 4l60e, 3.42 Eaton TrueTrac
    1989 Camaro IROC-Z Convertible - 355 big tube TPI, WC T5, 3.42 Zexel Torsen, CTS-V/C4 brakes
    1955 Bel Air 2 Door Post - 357 TPI, Muncie M20, 4 wheel disc

    2006 Saab 9-7x 5.3i Daily Driver

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    • #3
      will a stock mount be able to hold up to a mildly built trans?
      1997 Trans Am
      T56 swap. LS1 Cosmetics

      Comment


      • #4
        While I understand what Mike is saying, I disagree -- instead of going with a stock mount, I'd take the time to put poly mounts on the engine and trans at the same time.
        - Brian Meissen
        Owner, MiFBody.com
        Administrator, LTxTech.com


        1994 Camaro LT1 Transplant - 357ci LT1, cammed, stalled, and driven.
        2022 Camaro LT1 - "Cherry Bomb 2"
        Michigan FBody Meet & Greet Car Show 2022
        June 4th, 2022 - 9am to 3pm!!!
        The HUB Stadium, Auburn Hills, MI

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        • #5
          Originally posted by meissen View Post
          While I understand what Mike is saying, I disagree -- instead of going with a stock mount, I'd take the time to put poly mounts on the engine and trans at the same time.
          Which is what I said (in a way )

          I wouldn't bother with the extra cost involved on a stock LT1. Just my opinion though.
          Last edited by hoogiesngrinderz; May 12th, 2012, 07:14 PM.

          1998 Camaro Z28 - Bright Red, 6.0 TR224, 4l60e, 3.42 Eaton TrueTrac
          1989 Camaro IROC-Z Convertible - 355 big tube TPI, WC T5, 3.42 Zexel Torsen, CTS-V/C4 brakes
          1955 Bel Air 2 Door Post - 357 TPI, Muncie M20, 4 wheel disc

          2006 Saab 9-7x 5.3i Daily Driver

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by QuickTop View Post
            will a stock mount be able to hold up to a mildly built trans?
            Yes.

            1998 Camaro Z28 - Bright Red, 6.0 TR224, 4l60e, 3.42 Eaton TrueTrac
            1989 Camaro IROC-Z Convertible - 355 big tube TPI, WC T5, 3.42 Zexel Torsen, CTS-V/C4 brakes
            1955 Bel Air 2 Door Post - 357 TPI, Muncie M20, 4 wheel disc

            2006 Saab 9-7x 5.3i Daily Driver

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by hoogiesngrinderz View Post
              Yes.
              Well then im all set, thanks guys!
              1997 Trans Am
              T56 swap. LS1 Cosmetics

              Comment


              • #8
                Before I would do anything....I would pull the inspection cover off and check your torque converter bolts.

                A loose converter bolt will sound like a rod knock when starting, as well as when idling etc.

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                • #9
                  I agree id check torque converter bolts, and also check mount make sure not broken/rubber splitting/or tearing.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by TrickyTransAm View Post
                    Before I would do anything....I would pull the inspection cover off and check your torque converter bolts.

                    A loose converter bolt will sound like a rod knock when starting, as well as when idling etc.
                    I'm pretty confident the only knocking ive got is from my alternator or somewhere in my
                    belts. Ill check those bolts while I'm under there. But will a loose bolt cause big, hard thuds upon acceleration and hard shifts?
                    Originally posted by killa89trans View Post
                    I agree id check torque converter bolts, and also check mount make sure not broken/rubber splitting/or tearing.
                    i checked mount on the tail of the trans and I looks pretty cracked out and dry.
                    1997 Trans Am
                    T56 swap. LS1 Cosmetics

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Change your trans mount with a stock mount. There is pretty much no reason to go with a poly trans mount. Unless your girl likes the vibrations...


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                      • #12
                        Or you have an M6 and you prefer your transmission not jumping through your console
                        -Joel
                        1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
                        1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


                        WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

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                        • #13
                          If your motor mounts were strong enough your trans wouldn't be jumping through your console. The trans can only move as much as the motor.

                          You can break bellhousings when your trans mount is stronger than your motor mount.


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                          • #14
                            Eh, i dont see it that way personally. Engine mounts handle rotational torque of the engine and mine still do fine at that because my headers have many opportunities to hit in various places if they didnt. What im not seeing is, Why would you control the vertical motion of a trans from an engine mount where you have no leverage? What purpose does the trans mount serv if not holding the trans vertically? By the sheer appearance of it, it obviously doesnt have much rotational leverage.

                            Also, Its a different ball game with an M6. (so sorry for the hijack) The trans weighs a lot more, there is also no converter to absorb driveline shock that causes it jump in the first place, and the shifter is direct to the trans so what is already amplified is now in your face. I dont doubt that people have broken bellhousings, but theyre also probably launching on stickies at 5k rpm where youre asking to find a weak link somewhere anyway (and nor would my stock engine mounts be sufficient). I dont see my poly mount putting enough strain on my bellhousing to make it break. And in the 9 years ive owned my car it hasnt. I fear much less for my bellhousing than everything else that gets put under stress when wheel hop starts happening from the torque arm moving around with the trans.

                            For the OP, i see no need for anything more than a stock mount with an auto
                            Last edited by JoeliusZ28; May 15th, 2012, 11:00 AM.
                            -Joel
                            1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
                            1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


                            WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              id probably replace it if its cracked and dry rotted out

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