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  • Torque Arm Mount

    So on my way home from South Haven Sunday afternoon I got to Kalamazoo and every time I let off the gas I would hear thunk thunk thunk, sounded like my drive shaft hitting something, since i was only about 10 miles from home I just drove it the rest of the way home, Last night I jacked up the car to see what was going on and this is what I saw

    IMAG0421.jpgIMAG0420.jpgIMAG0423.jpgIMAG0422.jpg

    IMAG0424.jpg

    Where the Torque arm mounts to the frame on the passanger side only have 4 tack welds into the floor pan, not really a good place for the Torque arm with out some reinforcement, I guess its time for some body upgrades
    1998 Pontiac Trans Am LS1, Ram Air, White with custom Ghost Flames, Black Leather Interior, T-Tops, T56 Trans, 4.10 Rear End, Spohn Adjustable Torque Arm, Line Lock, Kooks Headers, Kooks ORY Pipe, SLP Loudmouth II catback, LS6 Intake, K&N Air filter, Centerforce Dual friction Clutch, Lowered and "Conklinized"

    Pioneer D3 HU, Infinity Reference 6.5 componets. Kenwood KAC-9104 1800w AMP, Kenwood KAC-8404 600w AMP, Subthump Stealth enclosure, PPI PRO104 2000 watt DVC Sub

    sigpic

  • #2
    not the strongest mount for a torque arm. Luckily most of the force is going up when you are accelerating. When you are downshifting it will be putting downward stress on it.
    When in doubt, Whip it out !

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    • #3
      Does your TQ arm have adjustment at the top and bottom or just the bottom at the axle end?

      For every turn you adjust the top in the bottom has to come out 1 turn and vice versa.

      If its only adjustable on 1 end it creates a bind.


      Comment


      • #4
        I've had the same T/A on mine for 4 years.. 1st time I've seen that happen... IIRC it only adjusts on the bottom Mike..

        Guess you're not alone dude, this has happened before.. Found this looking for something else..
        http://www.ls1lt1.com/forum/chassis-|-suspension-|-braking-|-wheels-tires/28556-problem-spohn-chassis-mount-torque-arm.html
        sigpic
        U.S. Army 1983-2005
        11.20@122.37 1.51 60'

        Originally posted by WMCCjames

        "Plans Subject to change upon Sobering up"

        Comment


        • #5
          torquearm.jpg
          sigpic
          U.S. Army 1983-2005
          11.20@122.37 1.51 60'

          Originally posted by WMCCjames

          "Plans Subject to change upon Sobering up"

          Comment


          • #6
            I have had my car 4 years now and it was on there when I bought it, my car is also lowered and that brace is the lower point of the car so im sure it doesnt help that bracket when I bottom out. Thats the Type of sub frame connector I want to get.
            1998 Pontiac Trans Am LS1, Ram Air, White with custom Ghost Flames, Black Leather Interior, T-Tops, T56 Trans, 4.10 Rear End, Spohn Adjustable Torque Arm, Line Lock, Kooks Headers, Kooks ORY Pipe, SLP Loudmouth II catback, LS6 Intake, K&N Air filter, Centerforce Dual friction Clutch, Lowered and "Conklinized"

            Pioneer D3 HU, Infinity Reference 6.5 componets. Kenwood KAC-9104 1800w AMP, Kenwood KAC-8404 600w AMP, Subthump Stealth enclosure, PPI PRO104 2000 watt DVC Sub

            sigpic

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by OIF1VET View Post
              [ATTACH=CONFIG]36952[/ATTACH]
              i totally have this torque arm. . .with the driveshaft loop. . . .the poly bushings make a lot of noise, but its still on the car

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              • #8
                Im gonna order The UMI 3 point weld in suframe connector and get everthing welded back on, and while im in there im going to get LCA relocation brackets too

                http://www.byunspeed.com/product_inf...oducts_id=2938
                UMI2004_B.jpg
                1998 Pontiac Trans Am LS1, Ram Air, White with custom Ghost Flames, Black Leather Interior, T-Tops, T56 Trans, 4.10 Rear End, Spohn Adjustable Torque Arm, Line Lock, Kooks Headers, Kooks ORY Pipe, SLP Loudmouth II catback, LS6 Intake, K&N Air filter, Centerforce Dual friction Clutch, Lowered and "Conklinized"

                Pioneer D3 HU, Infinity Reference 6.5 componets. Kenwood KAC-9104 1800w AMP, Kenwood KAC-8404 600w AMP, Subthump Stealth enclosure, PPI PRO104 2000 watt DVC Sub

                sigpic

                Comment


                • #9
                  you should of had the relocation brackets from the start, a lowered car without them has incorrect suspension geometry.
                  Doing less with more


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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by DETROITMUSCLE View Post
                    you should of had the relocation brackets from the start, a lowered car without them has incorrect suspension geometry.
                    '91 Camaro Modded, LSx, House of Kolor Intense White, lowered, GS chrome 18" wheels, 14" Brembo CTS-V on all 4 corners, LS rear end, FP suspension components

                    " When in doubt...throttle out ! "
                    ENVYsion Entertainment Group

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                    • #11
                      I bought the car that way and it drove fine so i never worried about it, but it was always on my plans to do so now is a good time to do it. Is there any big gains going with welded versus bolt on? I started thinking I might want to stick with bolt on case I ever have a need to take them off dont know why i would but yo never know
                      Last edited by SWEETRIDE98; August 4th, 2011, 07:43 PM.
                      1998 Pontiac Trans Am LS1, Ram Air, White with custom Ghost Flames, Black Leather Interior, T-Tops, T56 Trans, 4.10 Rear End, Spohn Adjustable Torque Arm, Line Lock, Kooks Headers, Kooks ORY Pipe, SLP Loudmouth II catback, LS6 Intake, K&N Air filter, Centerforce Dual friction Clutch, Lowered and "Conklinized"

                      Pioneer D3 HU, Infinity Reference 6.5 componets. Kenwood KAC-9104 1800w AMP, Kenwood KAC-8404 600w AMP, Subthump Stealth enclosure, PPI PRO104 2000 watt DVC Sub

                      sigpic

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I would weld them and forget about it, you could always cut them off if need be but I don't see why you would have to.
                        Doing less with more


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