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  • Trans rear input needed

    w/ winter coming, its getting to be time to start thinking about working on the fireturd again... Looking for some input on what to do to back half of the drivetrain...

    Trans, few options here car is going to be used (mostly) on the 1320, but would like to do some AutoX s well..Plus cruising around now and then.
    It currently has the 4L60(i think) in it, but I have been considering swapping to a M5 or a T56(if possible). TEP did the trans in my W, and Dave said he could do a build on the current trans for ~$1500-2k that will hold the power...

    Rear end
    really need input here... I wouldnt mind going to a LS1/LT1 Disc setup IF it can hold the power for a year or so to let me save to buy a proper rear end

    Engine is going to be a boosted v6 (goals of around 4-500whp), and even though that may sound nuts, its fairly easy to get similar numbers in a Wbody with a milder build than what im going to do on the Turd...



    Again, any input/experiences on the trans and rear would be greatly appreciated

    Ill prob be doing a suspension thread later on, but for now I already have BMR CAs and subframe connectors, that plus the cage should stiffen me up a little from stock and help w/ handling a bit
    2004 Impala LS (DD)
    sigpic
    1997 Firebird 3800 (current project)
    http://www.mifbody.com/vbulletin/sho...oject-FireTurd

    www.hellfiremotorsports.com/garage

  • #2
    If you're going to a manual trans, I'd suggest swapping to a 9-inch.
    Gone but not forgotten: 1986 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z

    "You shall ride eternal. Shiny and chrome."

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    • #3
      if your gonna go with a manual trans I'd go with a T-56 for sure, the T-5 won't hold that power. If you stick with an auto trans the 10 bolt may last for a while but probably not forever. As Kyle mentioned a 6 speed will require you upgrade to something like a 9" whereas you could get away with a 12 bolt behind an auto.
      Doing less with more


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      • #4
        A 12 bolt will rob less power than a 9 inch. That would mean going with an auto though, which would rob more power than the manual.
        2015 Silverado

        Originally posted by JoeliusZ28
        If you need 6 and half grand to break your tires loose you shouldnt be attempting a holeshot.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Boost Addict View Post
          A 12 bolt will rob less power than a 9 inch. That would mean going with an auto though, which would rob more power than the manual.
          I don't understand this mentality, who cares if it robs a few hp? If your planning on making big power you need something strong enough to hold it all and take the abuse otherwise you keep dumping $ into something "more efficient"
          Doing less with more


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          • #6
            Originally posted by DETROITMUSCLE View Post
            , who cares if it robs a few hp? If your planning on making big power you need something strong enough to hold it all and take the abuse otherwise you keep dumping $ into something "more efficient"
            thats pretty much my thinking as well..
            Im just stuck on the M v/s A issue, IDK if I want to convert from the A -> Just b/c i would like to AutoX now and then.. Manual valve body avail for the 4l60?
            also Im not sure the gains would be worth the cost of buying, then mating the t56 to the 3800 , especially when i can get a GOOD trans build that SHOULD hold the power I'd like to put down for ~$2k (2500 if i go billet TC).....

            On the rear, I know the stock rears are a weak spot... and I'm not looking for quotes, but those of you who have them, how much power are you putting to the ground? Are you running slicks/drs/etc... Is there a big difference in the LT1 rear and the one that came w/ the V6? (strength wise) Should i just grab a LS1 rear and throw it in there while saving for a rear end or do it all at once.. the issue i have w/ doing it all at once is that If i go that route it'll prob add a year to the build time ($$$)
            2004 Impala LS (DD)
            sigpic
            1997 Firebird 3800 (current project)
            http://www.mifbody.com/vbulletin/sho...oject-FireTurd

            www.hellfiremotorsports.com/garage

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            • #7
              I believe they do make a manual vb for the 60E now, don't know much else about it though. As for rear ends any of the LT1 or LS1 rear ends will be just as weak/strong as the others. The V6 cars don't have posi unless it was optioned when the car was purchased and those are not very common. My rear lasted about 3 passes of 1.5x 60's before it took a shit. I had made a lot of 1.6-1.9 60' passes beforehand though and it lasted alright for what it was especially considering my car is full weight with my fast ass in it so that wasn't helping.
              Doing less with more


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              • #8
                Yeah, it's not really worth wasting the money to buy another 10-bolt...
                Gone but not forgotten: 1986 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z

                "You shall ride eternal. Shiny and chrome."

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by MP81 View Post
                  Yeah, it's not really worth wasting the money to buy another 10-bolt...
                  was just thinking, $300-500 if i get one season out of it, atleast its not sitting 90% done...
                  Ill see how far i get this winter before worrying about the rear... anyone know the RPO for the v6 posi so i can check my door tag and pray LOL
                  2004 Impala LS (DD)
                  sigpic
                  1997 Firebird 3800 (current project)
                  http://www.mifbody.com/vbulletin/sho...oject-FireTurd

                  www.hellfiremotorsports.com/garage

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                  • #10
                    not sure you will make enough torque with a boosted manual trans 6 to hurt a 12 bolt even with a 2 step

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