Bad vibration...

[LSxDreamer]

When I was changing out the u-joints on mine (aluminum) I had to use some Large amounts of brute force and heat to get the factory u-joints out. Now at higher speeds (50mph+) I feel a vibration as if the u-joints were bad.

Since the u-joints that are in there are new is there a possibility that I may have bent the holes on the driveshaft or the yoke in just enough to make it funky... Oh and I've changed u-joints many times before and have never had a problem.

Is there something a driveshaft shop could do or should I buy another used one...

[Phantom409]

Yes, a drive line shop can check the drive shaft for straightness, dents, hops and what not.

I had a similar problem with mine and it ended up being that the factory damper was bad on my drive shaft (Lt-1 style)

[LSxDreamer]

anyone know of one in SW Michigan

[94LTwon]

hmm, mine does the same thing at 1200-1300 rpms no matter what gear im in. It's been pissin me off but I guess I will go after the ujoints this winter. Good luck

[s.reef]

hey David how hard is replacing U joints?

[.DetroitKing.]

you could take the driveshaft off and use a dial indicator to check the runout on it. that will tell you if it's bent or not without having to take it to a shop.

i just did that on a car the other day

[lozanoa11]

I think there is one by beton harbor(sp). right when 196 merges to 94 i forget the name but i always see a sign for it

[JoeliusZ28]

Aluminum driveshafts are a soft metal and require a special press to remove u-joints. Most auto parts stores like NAPA can do it for like $5. Hammers are only safe to use on steel driveshafts. You may have messed up your drive shaft beyond further use, good luck.

[steddy]

Aluminum driveshafts are a soft metal and require a special press to remove u-joints. Most auto parts stores like NAPA can do it for like $5. Hammers are only safe to use on steel driveshafts. You may have messed up your drive shaft beyond further use, good luck.

I agree, the use of heat, as well as possibly hammering may have "re-engineered" the shaft. The $5 invested in pressing is far less expensive as the possibility of distorting the u-joint mounts.

[LSxDreamer]

I agree, the use of heat, as well as possibly hammering may have "re-engineered" the shaft. The $5 invested in pressing is far less expensive as the possibility of distorting the u-joint mounts.

I would agree hence this thread but I had done this before on an aluminum driveshaft with no problems and a WHOLE LOT less effort. I never knew they could press them out since there has to be some kind of heat to melt the the plastic inside unless it just breaks it. But I also got all of my swap parts from a car that was rearended so it might have been damaged before I put it in. Oh well it just looks like I'll have to buy a used one for $100.

[LSxDreamer]

Just an update. It's not the driveshaft, I bought another driveshaft and installed new u-joints and it is doing the same thing. I was reading around on LS1tech and read something about the paddles coming loose in the Torsen units and causing a clunk when not under load which is exactly what is happening... So I'm not sure what I'm going to do because I don't really have the money for a 12 bolt or 9"... unless someone wants to trade me one for the engagement ring I have in the for sale section

[Kwazrollinz28]

just stick another 10bolt in there for the time till you can get the cash

[1BADAIR]

whats your pinion angle?

[LSxDreamer]

whats your pinion angle?

Im not sure what it is, but that idea did pop into my head since my car is lowered but there is nothing in there to correct the pinion angle. I do have a some LCA relocation brackets, would that fix it... I just don't have a welder and my buddy that does has just been busy lately.

[1BADAIR]

relocation brackets wouldn't fix it. you would need an adjustable torque arm. i wouldn't recommend using the stock one with that much power and a stall anyway